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Discussion Starter #21
It might be time to look into some replacements. I'm not saying these are directly the cause of the isues seen, but I do note that most Gen 3 owners have done this by the time they reach this point (which is about 190k miles, for those of us in the USA).
I expect that there will be some other replacements in the near future.

I took a look at the front wishbone bushings, and the rear bushing has a few small cracks in it.
I tried moving the front bushing, but that one is tight.
The rear bushing on the other had can move up and down a little when force is applied. Added a video link to show what I mean. I had the tyre off the ground. Don't think this movement should be possible.

 

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Discussion Starter #22
Replaced the bushings of the front arms and replaced the rotors and pads.
Vibration is still there.

Replaced the front axles with axles from SKF....
Already noticed this mistake when putting the car in reverse. There were a lot of additional vibrations and the initial problem still there.

Reinstalled the original shafts and I am back at the original problem.

Did find out that when I slowly enter a corner at 40mph it is quite oke, but when I release the throttle the vibration kicks in. And it is gone when going straight again.

From the receipts of the previous owners I could see that both wheel CV joints have been replaced, they do not seem OEM due to the amount of rust that's on them. The transmission side are both green.
Could it be that I need new OEM CV joints that these aftermarket cause the problems when cornering?
 

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Replaced the bushings of the front arms and replaced the rotors and pads.
Vibration is still there.

Replaced the front axles with axles from SKF....
Already noticed this mistake when putting the car in reverse. There were a lot of additional vibrations and the initial problem still there.

Reinstalled the original shafts and I am back at the original problem.

Did find out that when I slowly enter a corner at 40mph it is quite oke, but when I release the throttle the vibration kicks in. And it is gone when going straight again.

From the receipts of the previous owners I could see that both wheel CV joints have been replaced, they do not seem OEM due to the amount of rust that's on them. The transmission side are both green.
Could it be that I need new OEM CV joints that these aftermarket cause the problems when cornering?
Green means oem axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Green means oem axles.
That's the case for the inner CV joints.
I mean the outer CV joints, they seem to be replaced and what I know from OEM joints is that they should not rust this fast.
Or do aftermarket outer CV joints not cause any issues?
 

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That's the case for the inner CV joints.
I mean the outer CV joints, they seem to be replaced and what I know from OEM joints is that they should not rust this fast.
Or do aftermarket outer CV joints not cause any issues?
The outer joints arnt colored. And I don't think anyone would go through the trouble of replacing just the outer joint, also I'm pretty sure only subaru sells joint kits.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The outer joints arnt colored. And I don't think anyone would go through the trouble of replacing just the outer joint, also I'm pretty sure only subaru sells joint kits.
They are easy to replace and the receipt I found of about 60€ on a CV joint does not cover the costs of a complete axle.
There are at least 6 aftermarket suppliers available...
 

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They are easy to replace and the receipt I found of about 60€ on a CV joint does not cover the costs of a complete axle.
There are at least 6 aftermarket suppliers available...
And I guess that's just the difference in regions... You can get an axle for that price here in the states, hence why I said I normally don't see someone replacing just an outer joint, especially for a none oem one with the added cost of labor. Majority of things here in the states they try to make assemblies cheaper then it is to repair, partially why we have so much fixable junk. It was cheaper for the person to buy new then to fix. At this rate since it's so cheap/easy for joints there, get a new or used oem joint and put it on and see if the vibrations go away.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
And I guess that's just the difference in regions... You can get an axle for that price here in the states, hence why I said I normally don't see someone replacing just an outer joint, especially for a none oem one with the added cost of labor. Majority of things here in the states they try to make assemblies cheaper then it is to repair, partially why we have so much fixable junk. It was cheaper for the person to buy new then to fix. At this rate since it's so cheap/easy for joints there, get a new or used oem joint and put it on and see if the vibrations go away.
In Europe we tend to repair just the CV joints, not all axles are available as spare parts for lots of cars.

Back on topic.
I found this thread about vibrations caused by the transmission mount, since a sudden release of throttle in a corner can also set up vibrations I thought about the transmission. Old Transmission Mount Cause Of Vibration

Jacked up the car and checked the mount.
Could see that it was loose from the cross member.
Tried to move the axle and I could move the entire transmission by hand without a lot of force.
Transmission mount is the next part on the list to replace. Maybe that is also the reason why the aftermarket axle caused vibrations.
504645
 

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A faulty transmission mount could easily cause your problem as there are added stresses to the transmission when you back off the throttle.

Seagrass
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Swapped the transmission mounting and still got the same issue...

Did find out that when I have the vibrations in a corner and I apply the brakes the vibration stops. As soon as release them it's back again. Just the slightest touch of the pedal is enough to stop the vibrations.

Since the front has been replaced, I'll have a look at the rear brakes to see if I can find something there
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Just replaced the rotors and pads, so no bleeding necessary. Brakes feel fine so no reason to bleed them.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Rear brakes both had issues, one stuck guiding pin the other had the cylinder stuck. Got them moving again but still same issue.

Then I found a bushing of the rear diff which had traces of some kind of oil on it (all dried up). Turns out the hydro bushing was giving a lot of play.
Replaced the front 2 bushings and the vibration is gone (for the most part), rear bushings might also need replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Celebrated a bit to soon.
The vibrations are less but still there at a bit higher speeds.

Noticed that my propeller shaft center bearing can move a lot up and down. The bearing itself feels fine, but there is a lot of movement possible in the rubber.
Is there supposed to be movement in the rubber? Or should I not be able te move it by hand?
 
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