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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Subaru that won’t shift into any gears. Nothing acts like neutral, when she died I scanned her and she gave me these codes below but after resetting the computer to see if it was an electrical problem they’re no longer showing up and CEL isn’t illuminating. Fluids were good in diff, and trans. Checked cable and grounds, and plugs... car starts up and runs fine no rough idle. Just doesn’t shift, I’ve exhausted my knowledge so far. I have a spare trans but want to get others opinions first. Thank you for reading this if you did! The codes that stand out are P733 and 734. Never had codes before when it happened and suddenly started high revving on way home.

P0137
P0139
P0113
P0138
P0502
P0733
P0139
P0734
P0113
P2097
P2096
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My car acts like it is in neutral completely doesn't shift at all. and ive read that already. ive searched the forums already. Im sure its a seal or something of the likes of trans failure. Thanks though.. I just wanted some input from other people.
 

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Master Caster
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Whats very strange is none of the codes pulled have anything to do with the transmission. Most are sensor codes, related to emissions or fueling.

The transmission will engage different shifter locations? Go into park, R, D etc. maybe the linkage broke or something. Need more information. Since the CEL is now gone, those codes appear to be corrected from the car's standpoint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When shifting, the cable moves the linkage on the transmission. Yea what’s weird is all those emission codes and the two gear ratio codes. I didn’t think the o2 sensor or speed sensor would cause it to be 100% inoperable. What information do you need? I’m at a loss and open to ideas. The iat is in operating range too from watching the reader, I figured none of the emission codes would make it not move at all.

also, I have gotten it into gear once or twice by playing with the shifter. but didn't try to take a test drive with it figuring it would start to rev in drive again. I can freely move into each gear and feel a click of each.
 

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Master Caster
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When you checked the AT fuild, this was done with the car running on level ground, correct. And you are reading the proper hot and cold marks.

If the car is not running, you are ALWAYS going to be reading significantly higher than when running and operating.

No movement is very strange, no noises? No clunking? Anything?
 

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2001 Outback Wagon 5 speed, 2.5L
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A lot of ATs wont give you a reliable dipstick reading if you cant shift the transmission from park to reverse to neutral through the forward gears and back to park.

Aside from that, if you can get it go into gear by playing with the linkage, I'd look for faults in the cable attachments points (like door latch release cables fail when their anchor point is compromised).

Im just spitballin' here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When you checked the AT fuild, this was done with the car running on level ground, correct. And you are reading the proper hot and cold marks.

If the car is not running, you are ALWAYS going to be reading significantly higher than when running and operating.

No movement is very strange, no noises? No clunking? Anything?
correct, nothing, dead silent.

A lot of ATs wont give you a reliable dipstick reading if you cant shift the transmission from park to reverse to neutral through the forward gears and back to park.

Aside from that, if you can get it go into gear by playing with the linkage, I'd look for faults in the cable attachments points (like door latch release cables fail when their anchor point is compromised).

Im just spitballin' here.
ill re look over the cable


also, when it started high revving it came to a stand still, and died. when restarted in neutral and attempting to shift it would just rev.

thank you both ill let you know if there are any developments.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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UPDATE: I swapped the transmission, this one is shifting fine. The other one was bad, going to rebuild it eventually.
why?

loads of 4EATs like this are laying around on craigslist part outs and pick/pulls, and junk yards with low miles and trouble free. just waiting to be saved from the crusher.

(the mechanical parts of a 2004 are not unique at all,...subaru kept using the same stuff form 1990-2009 and they are really good long life units vs. other transmissions).

how much did you pay for the used one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
why?

loads of 4EATs like this are laying around on craigslist part outs and pick/pulls, and junk yards with low miles and trouble free. just waiting to be saved from the crusher.

(the mechanical parts of a 2004 are not unique at all,...subaru kept using the same stuff form 1990-2009 and they are really good long life units vs. other transmissions).

how much did you pay for the used one?
I haven't dug into it yet, ill give another update when I do.

I paid 500 for a low mileage one, but in my neck of the woods it was kind of hard to come by a 4EAT with decent miles. I also replace the main and rear seals and axles seals and swapped the stubs because my new(used) didn't have stubs. I have ruled out it is nothing external because I reused the dipstick, plugs, sensors, and NSS. I tested all solenoids and they were all good aswell. so I won't know until I get her apart. I also had to get my gfs car on the road, so short time vs longer time by buying one or saving a few bucks.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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I haven't dug into it yet, ill give another update when I do.

I paid 500 for a low mileage one, but in my neck of the woods it was kind of hard to come by a 4EAT with decent miles. I also replace the main and rear seals and axles seals and swapped the stubs because my new(used) didn't have stubs. I have ruled out it is nothing external because I reused the dipstick, plugs, sensors, and NSS. I tested all solenoids and they were all good aswell. so I won't know until I get her apart. I also had to get my gfs car on the road, so short time vs longer time by buying one or saving a few bucks.
beware 2004 subaru 4EATs may have some single year electrical parts,

but in the end you are rebuilding something with no use. unless you buy another subaru like it listed as needing a trans.

= rare as they are needing a trans (over the 1990-2009 period)

vs. say a 2003 ford taurus. (which had many a trans implode and turn customers off ford forever)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
beware 2004 subaru 4EATs may have some single year electrical parts,

but in the end you are rebuilding something with no use. unless you buy another subaru like it listed as needing a trans.

= rare as they are needing a trans (over the 1990-2009 period)

vs. say a 2003 ford taurus. (which had many a trans implode and turn customers off ford forever)
appreciate it, and agreed. i'd rather know why it went and im sure it'll sit on a shelf unless I find another subie :) or if I sell it possibly. But knowing is knowing, and its always a good learning experience. And true, seems some are more bullet proof then others, thats why I suggested to my gf to keep her car, its been a good car. I did the timing on it and heads last year, its been faithful until now!
 
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