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I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
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Does that mean the engine isn't cranking/turning when the key is at Start?
Dead silence from everywhere except my cursing.
 

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'01 OBW 3.0 VDC 184,000 Miles '19 OB 2.5 Base <2,000 Miles - Formerly '14 Impreza Sedan 2.0 5spd 66,000 Miles at trade-in
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Dead silence from everywhere except my cursing.
This exact symptom has happened to my wife very sporadically. Finally happened when I was around. It was strange- Whirring when key turned on and dead silence when turned to start. Was very repeatable for the 3 minutes it was occurring- that was 1 month ago and has not happened since....
 

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Dead silence from everywhere except my cursing.
So no starter action. Not a fuel pump issue. There's a number of threads here with similar symptoms. Bad ignition switch, bad relays, bad contacts/cable connections, bad starter solenoid etc.
 

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Hello everyone,


I am a new member so please forgive me if this is in the wrong place.


I believe I am victim to the dreaded oring in the tank and/or a bad pump. Here's what's happening.


2001 Outback Limited 2.5 108K miles


I started having pretty bad hesitation from a stop. Once it was moving it felt ok though.
I checked for vacuum leaks and ignition and everything you could think of. I checked fuel pressure yesterday and I'm only getting 20psi. 20psi running, 20psi with return blocked, and 20psi with the regulator disconnected. It NEVER changes.


If I let it run long enough it will through a P0171 for obvious reasons. That's not enough fuel pressure. I decided to take the pump out. I don't see any obvious cracks in the cap or the oring pushing out. The tank seal for the pump is cracked but I was going to replace it anyway.


What do you guys think? Is there any way I can test the pump itself (ohm wise) or should I replace the old cap with the newer taller version?


Again, I apologize if this is in the wrong area, but this was the most up to date thread I could find for this issue without starting a new one. Would love some input! Thanks guys!
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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if you didn't see either of the 2 common signs of that failure; one of the 3 tabs on the cap cracked, or, a displaced/'ruptured' O-ring , then I think you need to look elsewhere. I suppose there is some slim possibility the o-ring has become hard and is not sealing, but that doesn't seem to have been reported.
 

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if you didn't see either of the 2 common signs of that failure; one of the 3 tabs on the cap cracked, or, a displaced/'ruptured' O-ring , then I think you need to look elsewhere. I suppose there is some slim possibility the o-ring has become hard and is not sealing, but that doesn't seem to have been reported.
Any suggestions where to look? Does anyone have a wiring diagram so I can test the wiring going to the pump? Any way I could ohm the pump assembly itself?

I did forget to mention that I did try to unscrew the cap to check the oring and its extremely tight. I can't get it by hand so I will try later with something else.

Anybody have any ideas? I'm assuming it's just the pump assembly itself. I would just like to test it to be sure.
 

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See attached:

If I'm reading it correctly I should be able to test for battery voltage at pins 1&2 on the connector.


And I should be able to ohm the pump on 1&2 as well. Correct? Anyone know the specs for the pump?


Just curious if anyone has ever had this problem where the fuel pressure builds slowly when trying to prime and then doesn't go over 20psi while running. I'm honestly surprised it runs at all.
 

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Correct on the measurements at pins 1 and 2, although I haven't found a spec for the resistance through the pump motor.

the fuel pressure builds slowly when trying to prime
Where are you measuring the pressure (e.g., before or after the fuel filter in the engine compartment)?

Once it reaches 20 psi during priming, does it hold that level (engine off), or decline, and if the latter, how fast?
 

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Correct on the measurements at pins 1 and 2, although I haven't found a spec for the resistance through the pump motor.



Where are you measuring the pressure (e.g., before or after the fuel filter in the engine compartment)?

Once it reaches 20 psi during priming, does it hold that level (engine off), or decline, and if the latter, how fast?



I am measuring the pressure with my snap on gauge between the filter and rail in the engine bay....while priming (3-4 key cycles) it will slowly go between 10 and 15psi. It doesn't reach 20psi until it's running.


I should also note, that I don't really hear the pump prime either. I just see it prime slowly on the gauge.....I haven't held the prime for any length of time but yesterday I would say it stayed at 20psi after I shut the car off for at least an hour.


As long as the wiring checks out I'm thinking I might just get a new pump assembly.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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maybe swap a different relay in if there's another compatible one in a different system

one idea, after you confirm voltage and good ground connection, not sure what it may lead to, cycle the key from OFF to ON several times without starting. See if you can build pressure higher than 20. Then, maybe clamp the lines off and try again.

If it just can't even build the pressure after clamping the lines and the power is good and there's no leaks - I see no reason not the try a new pump.

but, if pressure can be built, maybe there's a leak underhood somewhere? Fuel Pressure regulator or an injector or ???
 

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maybe swap a different relay in if there's another compatible one in a different system

one idea, after you confirm voltage and good ground connection, not sure what it may lead to, cycle the key from OFF to ON several times without starting. See if you can build pressure higher than 20. Then, maybe clamp the lines off and try again.

If it just can't even build the pressure after clamping the lines and the power is good and there's no leaks - I see no reason not the try a new pump.

but, if pressure can be built, maybe there's a leak underhood somewhere? Fuel Pressure regulator or an injector or ???
I will definitely try a different relay. However I did pinch off the return line and pressure still never went over 20psi. Still think maybe a regulator?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Hey everyone,


Just thought I would update everyone. All testing checked out good so I bit the bullet and bought a new pump. Here's what happened from the beginning.



I would have to prime 4 times just to get 15psi. Somehow the car still started with that and would get 20psi while running. Nothing would change the 20psi. And that's the highest it would go.


So I bit the bullet and bought a new pump. Installed everything and took a few primes to get the air out of the lines but once that was out it goes to 45psi on a prime. And drops 35psi while running. Also it quickly spikes while pinching off the return line now which it didn't do anything before.


So looks like problem solved. Sucks that a whole assembly was $350 but it comes with a lifetime warranty so I guess that's good. I also want to note that the new assembly I got, the cup and oring are held on with 3 screws instead of being twisted on. I thought that was pretty neat.


Also, I know we don't know the ohm specs for the pumps but I tested the bad and the new one side by side. The old one gave me 6.3ohms. The new one gave me 3.8ohms.


Thanks everyone for your help. Glad to have this baby up and running correctly again!
 

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'01 Base OBW w/5MT & AWP, Wintergreen
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Just had the seal between the cadmium plated metal cap and plastic body, so I replaced it with the brown Viton o-ring mentioned earlier in this topic...will post any updates if necessary.
 

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'01 Base OBW w/5MT & AWP, Wintergreen
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Looking at the available aftermarket fuel pump assemblies, I noticed the Car Quest branded part (which appears to be a re-branded Spectra Premium brand part) has a metal reservoir cap which is retained to the plastic body by screws, rather than the "C" shaped tabs as on the factory cap. Has anyone bought and tried this style assembly?
 

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Looking at the available aftermarket fuel pump assemblies, I noticed the Car Quest branded part (which appears to be a re-branded Spectra Premium brand part) has a metal reservoir cap which is retained to the plastic body by screws, rather than the "C" shaped tabs as on the factory cap. Has anyone bought and tried this style assembly?
I have this in my 2001 outback. Works amazing. I made a post about how I thought it was a much better design to be held on with screws. I believe airtex makes them for carquest/advance auto but not positive.

I originally only had 20psi under all conditions. Ran like crap. Dropped this pump assembly in and it's been running amazing for almost 30k miles. Best part, it has a lifetime warranty if it decides to crap out. So that offsets the initial high cost for me. Just to know I wont have to pay for it again.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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2002 Outback VDC
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I wasn't really having any issues, but I had the parts and wanted to do some preventative maintenance to prevent getting stranded in the future.

Pump was easy enough to get out, the current cap and O-ring were in pretty good shape, but took the cap off anyway and put one of those Viton O-rings in.

Getting the new cap on was next to impossible, couldn't get the thing to turn. So I just jammed the old one on and hammered the tabs back in. That thing isn't going anywhere.

Going to hold on to the new cap in case it does choose to go somewhere...

Anyway, not the most fun of little tasks, but nothing impossible either.
 

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Outback 2011 3.6R Premium
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When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Have you checked the pressure before the fuel filter?

A reading of 20 PSI could easily be a clogged fuel filter, from memory they are scheduled to be changed every 25,000 miles (but they are often overlooked).

Seagrass
 

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When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Have you checked the pressure before the fuel filter?

A reading of 20 PSI could easily be a clogged fuel filter, from memory they are scheduled to be changed every 25,000 miles (but they are often overlooked).

Seagrass
I assume you were referring to my 20psi. The fuel filter was just changed when this happened. It was right after I finished my HG. Didnt matter what I did. I disconnected vacuum to regulator. Pinched off return line. Nothing changed the reading. The new car quest filter fixed it right up. I was also getting a lean code since it wasn't enough fuel.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
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