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'05 2.5i H4 4-Speed Auto w/Sportshift
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Yes, I purchase the "store-brand" Parts-Master oil which is full-synthetic and exceeds all required standards and is about $1.50 to $2.00 less than the fancy-names.

I pay wholesale about $4.60 a quart. I started when the car was well-broken in at around 8,000 miles. I use 5W-30 Full Synthetic with no problems.

I do it for a reason. If, by some chance, my wife drives further than anticipated between changes, it is no big deal, less chance for oil breakdown, especially if she is making lots of short-running trips and the extremely cold winters we have (as cold as 40 below zero or colder). She could go 15,000 miles before I am able to change her oil and that doesn't bother me in the least -- I wouldn't be so nonchalant about it if we were running some cheapo conventional $1.39 per qt oil!
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,547 Posts
plenty of soobs do well on 'regular' oil.

I do my own maintenance and put the $ savings on labor, into better fluids when practical.

If your car sees severe duty - low miles/short trips/stop-n-go, regularly loaded to the max with gear/passengers or towing. Operating in extreme temps high or low, etc. , I think synth oil is helpful.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,391 Posts
Do you guys recommend synthetic oil? 2005 2.5i owner.
for that motor it doesn't matter. choose whichever oil you want and follow your owners manual. which oil you choose will not determine how long the motor lasts.

turbo motors should be running synthetic only, yours doesn't matter.
 

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2009 Subaru Outback 2.5i 5sp Manual
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355 Posts
I have a 98 OB with the 2.5, I believe I have a separator plate leak. If I run synthetic I dint notice as quick of oil loss as when I run conventional. This goes completely against what most people say, but that had been my experience. So I run synthetic
 

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We are coming up on cold weather here in CT and my commute to work is 5 miles...what weight would you all recommend? How high of a weight should I run in the summer (we hit 100 and humid quite often where I am) I am no good at oil selection...

To the OP, go synthetic.
 

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'05 2.5i H4 4-Speed Auto w/Sportshift
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514 Posts
OUTBAMF
I would use the multi-viscosity oils the manual tells you to use, I think for winter in extremely cold weather you could most likely add 0W-30 and 0W-20.

I typically use 5W-30 all year round, however it is full synthetic. I would be more picky with numbers if I were not using full synthetic.

I did read a good article on Synthetic oils and they said once you use synthetic, it is OK to add different weights when the car needs topping off, however, they made a REAL POINT of saying to stick with the same BRAND and Model of your synthetic oil! They said that the oil is formulated to work using various additives and if you put, say Valvoline oil into a car currently running, say Mobil 1 or Parts-Master full-synthetic, you are setting yourself up for the additives to start working against each other. I suppose, suddenly, all the gains you achieved using full-synthetic to begin with end up being partially or even totally eliminated!

That was sure an eye-opener for me, as I would occasionally add a different brand synthetic to one brand I am already using, I am NOT going to do that again! I will be sure to use the same brand and 'kind' of oil! Changing the oil weight does not matter as much, you can mix weights unlike mixing brands or even models within certain brands.
 

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I did read a good article on Synthetic oils and they said once you use synthetic, it is OK to add different weights when the car needs topping off, however, they made a REAL POINT of saying to stick with the same BRAND and Model of your synthetic oil!
Does this apply equally when changing oil? In other words, if today I have Mobil 1 synthetic in the engine, and there's great sale on Valvoline full synthetic, is it okay to change brands when the oil is changed?
 

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I switched to synthetic when I started having some cooling challenges with the hot California desert heat and high speed highway driving in socal. The switch to synthetic made a clear impact on the heat vs cooling capacity the older gen legacy and outbacks had.

If your in a hot place or freezing cold place synthetic will make your engine happy. If your in a mild place it doesn't really matter that much
 

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'05 2.5i H4 4-Speed Auto w/Sportshift
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Does this apply equally when changing oil? In other words, if today I have Mobil 1 synthetic in the engine, and there's great sale on Valvoline full synthetic, is it okay to change brands when the oil is changed?
I wouldn't think in such low quantities that it would really matter that much, I could be wrong though, I have been wrong before.:(
 

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'14 3.6R Outback
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2,345 Posts
Does this apply equally when changing oil? In other words, if today I have Mobil 1 synthetic in the engine, and there's great sale on Valvoline full synthetic, is it okay to change brands when the oil is changed?
Oil is just not as important as everyone makes it out to be, I'm learning that more and more.

The only provable advice to follow on oil is if you are using synthetic stay with synthetic.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i
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70 Posts
I use M1 10w40 with a M1 oil filter. I change it myself, it ends up costing me $39 in parts. ($26 for the oil, and $13 for the filter.)

Is it worth it? Well, it's got to be better than all that detergent-packed crap that is on the market. Is it better than Rotella-T or Kendall? I dunno. That's debatable. I'd like to think that it's not worse.
 

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57 Posts
OUTBAMF
I would use the multi-viscosity oils the manual tells you to use, I think for winter in extremely cold weather you could most likely add 0W-30 and 0W-20.

I typically use 5W-30 all year round, however it is full synthetic. I would be more picky with numbers if I were not using full synthetic.

I did read a good article on Synthetic oils and they said once you use synthetic, it is OK to add different weights when the car needs topping off, however, they made a REAL POINT of saying to stick with the same BRAND and Model of your synthetic oil! They said that the oil is formulated to work using various additives and if you put, say Valvoline oil into a car currently running, say Mobil 1 or Parts-Master full-synthetic, you are setting yourself up for the additives to start working against each other. I suppose, suddenly, all the gains you achieved using full-synthetic to begin with end up being partially or even totally eliminated!

That was sure an eye-opener for me, as I would occasionally add a different brand synthetic to one brand I am already using, I am NOT going to do that again! I will be sure to use the same brand and 'kind' of oil! Changing the oil weight does not matter as much, you can mix weights unlike mixing brands or even models within certain brands.

Thanks
 

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2009 Outback 3.0R Limited
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54 Posts
Pennzoil Ultra or M1 from Walmart plus a Subaru filter and crush washer for <$35 every 5k could"t hurt.
 
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