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1999 Outback
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so here is my confusion:

I'm in the process of rebuilding/swapping a "new" used motor into my 99 Outback. I just pulled the timing belt cover off and this is where we have a problem. I have read and watched videos about installing the timing belts on a EJ25D. I thought I understood it; more or less match up "II" on the top cam gear with the "II" on the bottom cam gear, on both sides, and install belt. WELL, thats not the case on this engine. I have spun and spun the engine to get them to line up on both sides, and it wont happen. When one side is lined up with the "II" marks, the other side isnt. Please help me understand. Remeber I'm not talking about the marks on the belt, I'm talking about the cam gear markings.

The belt only has the subaru markings and one place with "III" on the belt. There aren't any other marks on the belt other than the "III" right by the labeling. Here is a video of what I see. Sorry if its shaky, I'm not director, I did my best.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LX9rxfLofDc&feature=youtu.be
 

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2014 OBW 3.6R Limited, 1997 OBW 2.5L Auto (sold, but not forgotten), and 1991 Ford F150
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1,525 Posts
Ignore the arrow on the crank sprocket ... it has nothing to do with timing. Use the mark on the top-rear of the sprocket. See the graphic below for the correct marks to line up:


Regarding the driver-side exhaust sprocket, line up the double mark with the same mark on the intake sprocket, then put on the belt. Simple.
 

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1999 Outback
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ignore the arrow on the crank sprocket ... it has nothing to do with timing. Use the mark on the top-rear of the sprocket. See the graphic below for the correct marks to line up:


Regarding the driver-side exhaust sprocket, line up the double mark with the same mark on the intake sprocket, then put on the belt. Simple.
I'm a bit confused still. What is mark "A"? There are many marks on the oil cover... I dont think you understand my question. I pretty sure I know how to install a timing belt. I'm just confused because this motor does not look like it was installed according to the normal procedure. I'm simply asking for this to be cleared up. Both intake cam gear double marks are supposed to line up with the exhaust cam gear double marks, on both sides, at the same time. This motor does not at this moment, and it is a running motor.
 

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2014 OBW 3.6R Limited, 1997 OBW 2.5L Auto (sold, but not forgotten), and 1991 Ford F150
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1,525 Posts
Mark "A" is the TB alignment mark for the crank sprocket. When installing a TB, this mark is the first one to be lined up ... everything else flows from it. In your video, you were pointing to the arrow on the crank sprocket. My point is this arrow mark really has nothing to do with timing.

If you were to turn the crank until the "A" marks are lined up, then I believe you will find the driver-side cam sprockets will be lined up and the passenger-side ones will not be lined up because the TB is not installed correctly on one or both of them.

Okay, so the engine is running. Is it running at full power? My guess is it is not because the TB is not installed correctly. From looking at your video, it appears the TB is 1 or 2 teeth off and I think it is on the passenger side.
 

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2000 Outback Limited, Dual Range 5 Speed
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906 Posts
If you look behind the belt on the crank pulley there will be a mark on the crank trigger lobes (the spikey things behind the belt), (mark A) line that up so it's at 12 o'clock, the passenger cam gears gears look good (leave then where they are), drivers not so much unfortunately you will need to at least remove the tensioner to time the drivers side properly (line up the two marks like the passenger side ones.

If your getting a new belt then it should have marks on it to verify that the teeth on the belt are in the correct position on the belt.

If not you could release the tensioner line up the drivers side sprockets (don't worry as long as the crank pulley mark (mark A) is in the correct position all pistons are at half stroke and you won't fowl anything) and put the tensioner back on, then rotate the crank pulley twice and put the timing mark back on the crank pulley to where it needs to go (mark A), and then verify that the motor is timed right, if so you can mark your belt with your white out.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,385 Posts
SlickRick - got your message.

I would get a new tensioner and Subaru belt and install it properly.

Your video doesn't show the marks being far enough off for me to worry about. I would rotate the engine so that the drivers side marks are lined up and see where the other side ends up. Then "split the difference" so to speak and line them both up so they're "half a tooth off" or something like that and see where they end up - i think you will find that in the end the marks are really close and less than a tooth off. Timing marks aren't always very precise - they don't really need to be due to the nature of a toothed belt - it can only be correct, or not correct, it's not adjustable or variable like a serpentive belt.

Get the crank mark lined up (you are pointing to the wrong mark in the video, though it does appear it's lined up correctly). Anyway - get the crank mark lined up, then the cam marks and it'll all come out how it's supposed too.

When you go to install the new belt the marks will line up, install the belt, and most likely every thing will go together with none of the marks being a tooth off or more - that's what you want, all of them being as close as possible.

The tensioner will then take out slack and tighten it properly.

I watched the video.

First - ignore the arrow on the crank sprocket, you don't use that. There's another small hash mark on the crank sprocket that you use to align it - at exactly 12 noon.

just some quick thoughts, have a meeting right now...peace...
 

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"Honey Badger" 2005 OBXT Limited 5EAT 108K+ miles
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if the belt is too tight to run around all the pulleys before pulling the tensioner grenade pin, remove the most lower left pulley (i.e. passenger side) and string your belt. then install the pulley. then finally pull the tensioner grenade pin. when i replaced my belt, i learned this trick. the belt is a very tight fit, at least it was on mine.
 

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05 OBXT 5eat stg1.2
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2,104 Posts
if the belt is too tight to run around all the pulleys before pulling the tensioner grenade pin, remove the most lower left pulley (i.e. passenger side) and string your belt. then install the pulley. then finally pull the tensioner grenade pin. when i replaced my belt, i learned this trick. the belt is a very tight fit, at least it was on mine.
I had to do the same. There was no way to get it on with everything installed. Had to remove a pulley to get it on.
 

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1999 Outback
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK so what I'm gathering from what everyone is saying is:

1.The fact that these cam gear marks are a bit off is no worry? (Could this be a sign that this engine was worked on before?)

2.I get the timing plate part, but, your saying I should look for another mark other than the little arrow (is it on the gear itself? what does it look like?)

3. If I get a new belt I should just follow regular installation procedures?

Is it possible that this engine was opened before and the tech didnt do A+ work? I havent got into the heads yet so I'm asking, is it possible that the cam gears were not aligned properly on the cam shaft? Or is it keyed and can only go on one way?

I'm a newb at engine rebuilding. I have the knowledge from school (I did 1yr of Diesel Tech: tearing down engines, but mostly rebuilding 19 speed trans and such) I have no exper with gas engine internals or the proper rebuilding. To learning, is why I am doing this: not to save money.
 

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2000 Outback Limited, Dual Range 5 Speed
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906 Posts
The mark you are looking for is behind where the belt runs, (look at slick ricks picture it looks exactly the same as that) or you could also make sure the key way on the crank pulley is a 6 o'clock. I think the mark looks like a stamped line. Your drivers side gears will need to be lighted up, near enough is not good enough and will cause rough running or bent valves if to far out.
 
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