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Discussion Starter #1
Me again. I am changing the timing belt on my 2000 obw 2.5L manual. Put everything back together and now it runs very rough and stalls with throttle. I have done this twice before with no issues on my impreza. The only thing I did different this time is pulling the cam pullys to change the seals. I put them back on using the notch/spline. All the markings line up on the belt, pulleys and engine. I tried advancing and retarding the timing and nothing is working. Please help!
The timing kit came from gates. The belt number is correct for my VIN. All parts look the same. I forgot to mark everything before I removed the belt because I thought this would be much easier. I was careful with the valves. GRRR!
 

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i bet one of the timing marks is off one tooth. make sure all three are dead on - both cams and the crank sprocket.

any check engine light?

Has the engine ever been replaced or worked on?
Somewhere around 99 and 00 there are two different EJ25 SOHC (which is what yours is) belts I think. And since EJ25's have quite a few failures, they are often prone to having motors swapped at some point in their lives. So, I would want to verify what engine it has and look into those timing belt differences. Sorry I don't know more off the top of my head but pretty sure Gates even makes two different belts as well. I am unsure of what problems it would cause to interchange them, but the engines themselves swap seamlessly with no issues.

"advancing/retarding timing" - what does that mean?
 

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Thanks gary. I have some mechanic friends coming over to help. I hope its a simple mistake on my part. Everything checks out and its all original as far as i know. I am starting to think wrong belt though. Wouldnt be the first time or the last. I will keep ya posted
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Advancing or retarding the timing means moving the crankshaft independent of the cams and then puting the belt back on. Basically he thought i was off a tooth.
 

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okay, i would still check timing and make sure it's dead on. even if you move the crank, that won't matter if one of the cams is off - gotta make absolutely certain each of the three pulleys are marked up perfectly.

Did you pull the pin on the tensioner (seems obvious since you tried a couple times).

Did you replace the hydraulic tensioner? The newer style one-piece tensioners in your model are prone to failure. If you run the car with the timing covers off it can be bouncing/moving around as it doesn't provide enough tension against the belt and artificially hoses the timing under load but looks fine statically.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pulled pin and ran but no explosion. Ha. All new pulleys and tensioners. Will watch with covers off again. Recheck cam pulley is on correct. Also cross referance old belt #. Lots to do. Gotta be missing something
 

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I am such a rookie! But I am proud I figured this out myself. I broke one of the teeth off of the crank shaft gear that the crank sensor reads when I replaced the seals. This would explain all the issues. Poor subie doesn't know where it's shaft is at!
Local dealer wants $200! Internet here I come
Wow there is so much confusion on this part. Everyone thinks I want the pulley which is $200. I want the gear $18 local. thank u internet for online diagrams
 
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