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I just got the Gates timing component kit with water pump for my 2001 Outback wagon. The belt has two clear timing marks on it and something in the middle that looks like a dotted line across the belt with ghost images of it down the belt for an inch or so. Is this dotted line supposed to be the mark for the drive sprocket? If so, it's not very clear. I suppose everything will be fine as long as the two cam sprockets and the drive sprocket all have there marks lined up properly when the belt goes on.

I'm guessing my greatest challenge will be getting the crankshaft pulley bolt loose. Since I'm changing out the water pump and the coolant has to be drained anyway, I plan to pull the radiator (which I installed last summer) and just go at that bolt with an air wrench.

I also plan to change the front crankshaft oil seal behind the drive sprocket. Does the sprocket pull right off? Is it OK to pry the oil seal out with a flat-blade screwdriver or do you need a special tool?

Thanks in advance for your info and advice.
 

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as long as cam and crank marks are lined up the markings on the belt are meaningless. but yes - dotted line is usually crank and other two are cams. they won't line up if you put it in wrong, so no big deal, it'll be self evident once you're in there.

crank bolt - you can prop the socket on the bolt with a pipe extension over the handle resting against the frame rail. bump the starter and off the bolt comes. or simply lock the flexplate through the access hole with a socket extension and use a pipe over the handle of the crank bolt socket to loosen it. it's easy with long pipe - minimum 2 feet - to slide over the socket handle.

you can (carefully) pry out the seal if you don't mark the sealing surfaces in the process. it's more advisable to just remove the oil pump entirely and reseal it while you're in there. it's rather easy and only a few extra minutes of work.
1. clean off old adhesive off block and pump
2. replace oil pump oring ($2-$3 from subaru)
3. tigthen any loose backing plate screws (usually 2 or 3 are loose)
4. install a new seal in it
5. a bead of sealant goes around the pump case before installing.

if you do that then you can remove and install the seal on a work bench, floor etc, much easier than in the engine. and you get a completely resealed oil pump out of it too.

no special tools needed for this job at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
as long as cam and crank marks are lined up the markings on the belt are meaningless. but yes - dotted line is usually crank and other two are cams. they won't line up if you put it in wrong, so no big deal, it'll be self evident once you're in there.

crank bolt - you can prop the socket on the bolt with a pipe extension over the handle resting against the frame rail. bump the starter and off the bolt comes. or simply lock the flexplate through the access hole with a socket extension and use a pipe over the handle of the crank bolt socket to loosen it. it's easy with long pipe - minimum 2 feet - to slide over the socket handle.

you can (carefully) pry out the seal if you don't mark the sealing surfaces in the process. it's more advisable to just remove the oil pump entirely and reseal it while you're in there. it's rather easy and only a few extra minutes of work.
1. clean off old adhesive off block and pump
2. replace oil pump oring ($2-$3 from subaru)
3. tigthen any loose backing plate screws (usually 2 or 3 are loose)
4. install a new seal in it
5. a bead of sealant goes around the pump case before installing.

if you do that then you can remove and install the seal on a work bench, floor etc, much easier than in the engine. and you get a completely resealed oil pump out of it too.

no special tools needed for this job at all.
Thanks a million for the advice on removing the oil pump! I do have some oil leaking from the front of the engine, so resealing the oil pump makes sense.
 

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One thing not mentioned - Where there direction arrows on the belt? They are usually directional, and you need to make sure it goes on in the correct direction.
 
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