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Ok so I got the dreaded torque bind in my 99 obw with 175000mi. I flushed the trans as suggested here and it made it much better but its still there and probably going to get worse. so here are my questions.
What exactly will be damaged if I drive it like this? Is it just the transfer clutches and stuff I will replace anyways when I rebuild the transfer case or am I damaging the rest of the trans too?

Heres my idea, let me know what you think. Since the bind happens mostly in tight manuvering, full lock etc. what if I wired in a switch to the FWD circut? That way I will have awd on the highway and streets but could shut it off for parking, u-turns and such. After all winters comming and I may not be able to fix this before the snow flies in New England
anyways thanks for your thoughts.
 

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Sounds good to me, as long as the fuse is in line with the switch (in series).

Also, as someone else mentioned on another thread, you may get an engine warning light on which may or may not reset itself after you deactivate your new switch and restart the engine. Let us know how it works for you.
 

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driving wit htorque bind will cause more wear and tear on the rest of the drive train, but probably not enough to damage your trans.

but before you settle on a solution you need to identify the cause. if the fuse in cures the binding then your duty c is still working normally and the binding is being caused by either the transfer clutch discs or your tires, most likely.

FIRST
are your tires all the same brand, model, size, tread design, tread wear, and air pressure?????

if any of these is NO, then correct it. the tires need to be with in 1/4 inch in circumference. that works out to be about 2/32s of tread depth. if they do not match you can have binding.

SECOND
if new fluid helped, do it again.

how did you ''flush'' the fluid? paid a shop to replace ALL of the fluid or did you do it yourself? did you replace all of the fluid or just do a drain and fill?

3 or 4 drain and fills will replace most of the fluid if you drive in between them to mix the fluid. a ''power flush'' is generally frowned on . folks think, have had bad luck with, a flush stirring up dirt off the bottom of the pan.

but if new fluid helped, drive it a few days and replace it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
driving wit htorque bind will cause more wear and tear on the rest of the drive train, but probably not enough to damage your trans.

but before you settle on a solution you need to identify the cause. if the fuse in cures the binding then your duty c is still working normally and the binding is being caused by either the transfer clutch discs or your tires, most likely.

FIRST
are your tires all the same brand, model, size, tread design, tread wear, and air pressure?????

if any of these is NO, then correct it. the tires need to be with in 1/4 inch in circumference. that works out to be about 2/32s of tread depth. if they do not match you can have binding. also the fwd

SECOND
if new fluid helped, do it again.

how did you ''flush'' the fluid? paid a shop to replace ALL of the fluid or did you do it yourself? did you replace all of the fluid or just do a drain and fill?

3 or 4 drain and fills will replace most of the fluid if you drive in between them to mix the fluid. a ''power flush'' is generally frowned on . folks think, have had bad luck with, a flush stirring up dirt off the bottom of the pan.

but if new fluid helped, drive it a few days and replace it again.
thanks for the input. The tires all match and are less than a year old, the tire pressures matched last time I checked but I will make sure nothing has changed (It was the first thing I checked when I started feeling the binding a few weeks ago). I used the drain and fill method three times using around 12 quarts of atf. also the fuse does eliminate the binding alltogether but I was concerned that energising the duty c solinoid continuosly would burn it out. If it did burn out would the car be undrivable?
 

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If it did burn out would the car be undrivable?
no, but you would have severe binding.

check the tires, but since a drain and fill helped, i think this is the correct direction to proceed.

a switch to ''engage'' the fuse for tight maneuvering isn't a bad idea. and leaving the fuse in / on for long periods of time COULD cause it to fail sooner. but there is absolutely no way to know how long it will last or when it will fail.

if you end up replacing parts in the transfer case, rear extension housing, replace the duty c as well. no reason to open it up with out doing it all.

also drive some tight figure 8s in an empty parking lot. forward and backwards. it might help losen , clean yp the clutch plates. the 99 should have the spin on filter so no worries there.

drive it a few days and then drain and fill again. also good to drain and fill every time you change your oil, are at least once a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
no, but you would have severe binding.

check the tires, but since a drain and fill helped, i think this is the correct direction to proceed.

a switch to ''engage'' the fuse for tight maneuvering isn't a bad idea. and leaving the fuse in / on for long periods of time COULD cause it to fail sooner. but there is absolutely no way to know how long it will last or when it will fail.

if you end up replacing parts in the transfer case, rear extension housing, replace the duty c as well. no reason to open it up with out doing it all.

also drive some tight figure 8s in an empty parking lot. forward and backwards. it might help losen , clean yp the clutch plates. the 99 should have the spin on filter so no worries there.

drive it a few days and then drain and fill again. also good to drain and fill every time you change your oil, are at least once a year.
I will do the above and see how it goes. If I open her up I would definetly replace the solinoid too my luck would have me right back in there if I didn't :rolleyes:. thanks again.
 

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Had to replace mu 4EAT transmission on my 98 Outback a few months ago. Just stopped working in the middle of an intersection and would not engage in any position. car had 170,000 miles at the time. My mechanic, a non Subi type person replaced the transmission with a used 57,000 miles 4EAT and kept the car for a few more days because he couldn't get rid of what he called chucking. He finally said he fixed it and as I drove it home what he called chucking was in effect torque bind. Not wanting to bring it back and lose the use of the car while he troubleshot the problem, I checked out this forum and found that many people had good results with SeaFoam transmission additive. I tried it and it was like a miracle. Within a days worth of driving the torque bind was gone and the car runs as good as ever. i eventually replaced the transmission fluid and added more SeaFoam and have not had any problems since then. thanks to those previous posters with this great heads up...
 

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I energized the duty C solenoid on a '95 for years without any problem. So if that solves your problem, don't hesitate to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Glad you had good luck with those products may give them a try :29:
 

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t I was concerned that energising the duty c solinoid continuosly would burn it out.
no. run it in FWD all the time and only engage 4WD if needed. you might only notice binding at slow speeds, at different speeds the momentum is just masking it but the issue is still there. i wouldn't drive it like that.

running with torque bind stresses the system and can cause other failures. the clutch/drum/hub...i always forget the name, can shear off due to the strain. It's a small bowl sized metal drum inside the rear extension housing that can shear off with excess loading.

run FWD and flip the 4WD on if needed. run your car forever like that, you won't have any issues and won't cause binding on your drivetrain.

If it did burn out would the car be undrivable?
no, it would run just fine, it would just have torque bind, what it already has!!...but it's highly unlikely to happen anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
no. run it in FWD all the time and only engage 4WD if needed. you might only notice binding at slow speeds, at different speeds the momentum is just masking it but the issue is still there. i wouldn't drive it like that.

running with torque bind stresses the system and can cause other failures. the clutch/drum/hub...i always forget the name, can shear off due to the strain. It's a small bowl sized metal drum inside the rear extension housing that can shear off with excess loading.

run FWD and flip the 4WD on if needed. run your car forever like that, you won't have any issues and won't cause binding on your drivetrain.

no, it would run just fine, it would just have torque bind, what it already has!!...but it's highly unlikely to happen anyway.
Thanks grossgary sort of the answer i was hoping for ! Im glad you responded, ive followed a lot of your posts and would deem you a reliable source so that helps even more :29:
 

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I wired in the switch in my '98 just like you are talking about. The fuse holder is plugged into the wire harness. Unclip the plug from the fuse holder. Put a jumper wire between one leg of the harness plug and the same leg of the fuse holder (it doesn't matter which leg). Then run two wires from the open leg to the switch. Works like a charm. And no wires to cut, so everything can be restored if you ever decide to fix the tans.
 

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I wired in the switch in my '98 just like you are talking about. The fuse holder is plugged into the wire harness. Unclip the plug from the fuse holder. Put a jumper wire between one leg of the harness plug and the same leg of the fuse holder (it doesn't matter which leg). Then run two wires from the open leg to the switch. Works like a charm. And no wires to cut, so everything can be restored if you ever decide to fix the tans.
Thanks for the insight. definatly will fix it at some point but waay to many bills right now. just want to limp it through the winter till things calm down. Wanted the switch because I'd rather not be without 4wd when the snow flies :( and popping the fuse in and out would become annoying.
Did you use your switch when moving or only when stopped? Also does it cause any cels or lights other than the fwd light just curious thanks Red
 
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