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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve got a 2011 Outback 2.5l with the TR690 cvt transmission. The other day while driving home from work, the “at oil temp”, “cruise”, “brake”, and “check engine” lights started flashing. A DTC scan indicated the p2763 and p0700 fault codes. Checking the resistance from terminal (T4) No. 11 to the transmission body gave an open reading, so based on this and the fact that the lock up solenoid seems to be a common problem, I will be replacing this solenoid in a few days. I was planning on just going to my local parts store and buying some valvoline cvt fluid that supposedly works in this transmission, but after reading a bad review online I am wondering if I need to get the official Subaru fluid. Has anyone done a fluid change with non-oem fluid, and if so did that cause any problems? Thanks!
 

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2010 Outback 2.5
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259 Posts
I did a drain and fill with Red Line. My next drain and fills will be with Subaru fluid only.

Some people here like the Amsoil CVT fluid, but most experienced mechanics here recommend Subaru fluid only.
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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Subaru CVTF-II or ENEOS ECO, (3026-300 is the quart bottle). Anything else is a gamble. I get quite a few CVTs that had a "universal" fluid in it and it was the fluid that was causing issues with how the CVT functioned.

You may want to check the harness as well for any cracks/breaks. Check the connectors good at the top of the trans and at the valve body when you drop the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was planning on filling while cold, warming transmission up to about 110 F, then cracking drain until a small stream barely runs out. Sound correct?
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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You can start to fill at 95°F. Make sure the car is level when you fill it and the engine running in Park.

To help it warm up faster, put the selector in Drive, hold the brake and speed the engine up to 1000-1200 rpm. Watch the AT Temp on the scan tool. Once it gets to 100 the temp comes up faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have removed the 12 valve body to case bolts as instructed, and I can pry lightly on it and it does move but it is still hung firmly on the right rear corner (corner by electrical connector). What am I missing? @cardoc
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Just as an update, there was one more bolt that needed to come out next to that connector. Once all of the bolts were out, the valve body came out easily. I removed the old solenoid (resistance measured open across the terminals) and installed the new solenoid (measured about 13 ohms). Reinstalled valve body, new filter, and cleaned pan with new gasket. Fill procedure was fairly straightforward, mine ended up taking about 9 quarts of fluid (used oem). Thanks for the help with this.

After completing the job I disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes to clear the codes. I’ve test driven twice with no new codes. I’ll reply again if I end up having any more issues.

These resources were also very helpful for me:



 

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@Jimmydean (or anyone else who can help) where did you get your solenoid from? Can you send any links for quality solenoids for this project? Did you have a video you referenced for the actual steps to remove and replace the solenoid itself?

Thanks!
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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@Jimmydean (or anyone else who can help) where did you get your solenoid from? Can you send any links for quality solenoids for this project? Did you have a video you referenced for the actual steps to remove and replace the solenoid itself?

Thanks!
@Brucey ...is going to link a video. = I used it with one of my mechanic friends on a 2011 legacy.
(edit: I can't find the video thread)
 
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Brucey
'17 3.6
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@Jimmydean (or anyone else who can help) where did you get your solenoid from? Can you send any links for quality solenoids for this project? Did you have a video you referenced for the actual steps to remove and replace the solenoid itself?

Thanks!
This is the video I did on it.


We have a thread in the DIY section too.
 

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Hi @Brucey ! Yea I watched your video and I'd ultimately like to try that. My main concern is the negative reviews on the amazon solenoid most recently. Do you have any feedback in the community on how reliable these Koauto solenoids are?


I'd just rather do it once since the fluid is expensive too. Trying to balance my limited time if I have to replace multiple times vs blowing $1000 right off the bat.

Thoughts?
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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Hi @Brucey ! Yea I watched your video and I'd ultimately like to try that. My main concern is the negative reviews on the amazon solenoid most recently. Do you have any feedback in the community on how reliable these Koauto solenoids are?


I'd just rather do it once since the fluid is expensive too. Trying to balance my limited time if I have to replace multiple times vs blowing $1000 right off the bat.

Thoughts?
my 2 cents ... sense:

As per my amazon acct, I bought that one on May 8th 2020. ...paid something like $136 for it at the time, vs. the $99 they are asking today.
We did the solenoid swap, refilled the trans with the juice that was in it, and no relearn was needed. Car's still going happy, (I talk on the phone to the owner every couple months).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@stocker I bought one on eBay (paid $55.99) from seller democdelta. Other sellers have similar offers. Can’t make any garuntees on the quality; I also noticed some had bad reviews. Still no issues with mine 3 months later. And yes, @Brucey ’s video was also very helpful.
 
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