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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I'm planning to replace the valve body in my 2011 Outback and wanted to get a few quick opinions before I jump right in.

I recently followed Brucey's awesome solenoid replacement guide after getting the P2764 error code. After going through the reassembly twice (I neglected to reconnect the manual valve linkage the first time around) the P2764 code is gone, but I now get a P2762 code that comes on when driving around for a while after clearing the codes - generally 5-10 miles in, but sometimes more and not on every trip.

A few additional details:
  • The car has ~140,000 miles and I believe the transmission fluid had never been changed before last week. I only got the car from a family member in October.
    • The dirty fluid was quite dark but there were no metal filings in the pan's magnet.
  • I'm quite sure that the fluid levels are correct. The fluid is at the bottom of the fill hole when within spec temperature and on level ground.
  • I used a Castrol CVT transmission fluid instead of the OEM fluid: https://www.castrol.com/content/dam/castrol/country-sites/en_mm/myanmar/home/pdf/transmax-cvt.pdf
  • The original P2764 code would come back on immediately after clearing the codes. I was able to verify that the solenoid was broken by checking the resistance.
  • The car seems to be driving OK. It's really hard for me to tell if the shifting is slightly off, but I haven't noticed any shuddering or sloppy shifts.
  • When the P2672 code comes on, I get all the normal lights except for the A/T Temperature light. The A/T light comes on a minute or two later and flashes at 2Hz which seems to just indicate a problem with the CVT system.

I can get a new valve body for about $730 from my local Subaru dealer or ~$400-500 buying a remanufactured valve body online. The local dealer quoted me at $1800-$2000 for a valve body replacement. I have not shopped around for other quotes.

My best guess is that I damaged another solenoid valve when replacing the broken one. It just seems strange to me that the new code only comes on after letting the engine warm. This makes me wonder if it has something to do with using the Castrol CVT fluid. My current plan is to replace the valve body and bite the bullet and fill it back up with OEM fluid. Even though I didn't have metal filings in the pan, I'm slightly worried that this issue has something to do with the torque converter, and that this fix won't solve the root issue. Does anyone have any suggestions for diagnosing the issue and making sure that I'm taking the correct approach?

Thanks,
Jordan
 

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Do you have a copy of the manual that shows the pinouts on the harness (it will show which pins in the connectors affect that solenoid). I would start with simple things first.....possibly a pin in a connector got poor purchase or was damaged in your two repairs.
 

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Here is the section for the P2672 code... need something to check the secondary pressure reading that the car sees... then, if that checks out, physical gauges to check the secondary pressure.

509712


the troubleshooting stops at the secondary pressure test. Doesn't say in that section what to do if that fails. The main thing there is verify the pressure sensor is reading something, and if that looks abnormal, check the actual pressure reading (bad sensor vs actual low pressure). Low pressure would likely be either the valve body, or the oil pump.

509714

509715
509716



CVT oil pump blurb. Secondary pressure can be low due to stuff in the pickup (strainer), a bad pump.

509717
 

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Brucey
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How did you fill the fluid back up?

The car should be running and CVT fluid temperature should be ~100F degrees?

The line pressure procedure appears as this as follows:


"LINE PRESSURE TESTING
When problem occurs in any of these modules, always begin with checking fluid level. If level is normal, check the secondary (line) pressure. Secondary pressure port is located from the left side under the secondary pressure sensor (Fig. 13).

In this transmission pressure can reach high values, so you will need a special pressure gauge and hose suitable for pressure up to 1000 psi (69 bar).

Special tool for Subaru pressure gauge No. 18801АА000, and No. 18681AA010 for adaptor. If you want to make your own adaptor, use plug thread size 18х1.5 mm.

During pressure testing compare readings from your scanner with actual pressure readings on pressure gauge. If readings differ widely, check power supply and ground of secondary pressure sensor. If power supply voltage is normal but the signal is wrong, replace the sensor.

To measure pressure readings, set the temperature in transmission between 60 and 80°С. In positions P and N with closed throttle (at idle) normal pressure must be within the limits of 72–218 psi (4.96–15 bar).

In D and R positions, during stall tests pressure must be within the limits of 652–870 psi (45–60 bar)."
 

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At least you have a code to work off of. I'm not getting any codes with my suspected VB issue. It could literally be anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks a ton for the responses guys - It's great to have a supportive community here! Looks like I have some testing to do this week.

Brucey, I followed the fill procedure as close as I could - got about 5.5 quarts in before cycling through P-R-N-D-N-R-P a few times, getting the transmission temperature up to ~105F and filled to the bottom of the fill hole. I did overfill at first because the ground wasn't as level as I thought it was. Got a P2762, P2763, and a P2764 when I turned the car on and drove around the block. The 2763 and 2764 went away and have not come back since I got it on level ground and drained the excess fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE: I ended up replacing the valve body a little over a week ago which solved all my issues. Probably could have replaced the other solenoid that was failing out, but if 2 were failing in rapid succession, it seemed too risky to try again.

Thanks @Brucey for the solenoid replacement guides. I took a risk and this time it didn't pay off, but this experience has given me the confidence to attempt more repairs on this car as issues come up.

Also, I learned that a HDPE snowboard wax scraper was by far the best tool at my disposal to get the gasket materials off of the pan.

Cheers,
Jordan
 

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UPDATE: I ended up replacing the valve body a little over a week ago which solved all my issues. Probably could have replaced the other solenoid that was failing out, but if 2 were failing in rapid succession, it seemed too risky to try again.

Thanks @Brucey for the solenoid replacement guides. I took a risk and this time it didn't pay off, but this experience has given me the confidence to attempt more repairs on this car as issues come up.

Also, I learned that a HDPE snowboard wax scraper was by far the best tool at my disposal to get the gasket materials off of the pan.

Cheers,
Jordan
What scan tool are you using to view cvt temp?
 
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