Subaru Outback Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
2010 Outback 2.5i Sport, 6MT
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Alright, so I got this T-connector:
Tow Ready - T-Connector Outback, Forester - 118467 — hitchweb

Along with a Universal brake control installation kit:
Reese, Pre-Wired Brake Mate Kit Adapter, 7-Way Flat Pin Connector with Brake Control Wiring Installation Kit — hitchweb

There's a nice wiring diagram here:
http://www.hitchweb.com/file_manager/view/images/92/docs/tr118607.pdf

And I got the Tekonsha P3:
Tekonsha - Brake Control: "P3" - Inertia Activated; CAP: 2 to 8 Brake Systems - 90195 — hitchweb

I might put the wires through the cabin, as I've seen here:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/46269-7-pin-trailer-wiring.html

3 Questions:

(1) Any recommendations/pics of a brake controller mounted in a 2010+ Subaru? I'm wondering about removing the panel below the steering wheel and cutting out a small rectangle to poke the controller face through.

(2) Where do I tap into the brake wiring?

(3) I also got a solenoid to mount under the hood (so I don't drain the battery). Where can I tap into a switched power source?
 

·
Registered
2010 Outback 2.5i Sport, 6MT
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
{crickets}?

Okay, so I've run it through the cabin (from the back seat to the centre console was a serious PITA).

I think I'll mount the controller below the steering wheel, on the right hand side... I don't think there's really another option.

Still not sure where to tap into a switched power source under the hood. This is just going to the relay, so I guess I could tap into any other switched line? Wiper power maybe?

Oh, and it appears to be the yellow/green line that I need on the brake switch... makes me nervous splicing into it though...
 

·
Registered
2017 2.5 Touring
Joined
·
1,412 Posts
Room under the dash is mighty small for tools, hands, etc.
For the brake light signal, I ran a line back up to the controller from a brake light.
I put a solenoid in as well, with a fuse so I could not have it energize the 95% of the time I'm not pulling anything.

I put the harness, coiled, under the fuse panel in the left hand corner of the knee bolster at knee level on the dash. When I need the controller, I open the panel access, plug the controller in to the coiled harness, and just set it on the dash on one of those cell phone/sticky/rubber/thingies you can get for a buck or two at any auto parts store. I don't worry about banging knees or feet on the thing mounted under the dash.
 

·
Registered
2017 2.5 Touring
Joined
·
1,412 Posts
Room under the dash is mighty small for tools, hands, etc.
For the brake light signal, I ran a line back up to the controller from a brake light.
I put a solenoid in as well, with a fuse so I could not have it energized or even visible the 95% of the time I'm not pulling anything.

I put the harness, coiled, under the fuse panel in the left hand corner of the knee bolster at knee level on the dash. When I need the controller, I open the panel access, plug the controller in to the coiled harness, and just set it on the dash on one of those cell phone/sticky/rubber/thingies you can get for a buck or two at any auto parts store. I don't worry about banging knees or feet on the thing mounted under the dash.
 

·
Registered
2011 Outback 2.5i Premium, CVT, Steel Silver, all-weather package. Upgrades: Tweeter kit, BlueConnect, media hub, remote start, Curt 2" receiver hitch.
Joined
·
1,127 Posts
I know you've already bought the controller and wiring, but just for general knowledge, there is a Prodigy controller that is wireless. There is a box that mounts to the trailer, and then a controller that just plugs into a 12v outlet in the car. It is proportional, and can be manually actuated like the other Prodigy controllers. The main downside is cost... I is $299. However, it may be cheaper than buying a good controller AND having it installed. Plus, it is easy to move the controller from one tow vehicle to another.
 

·
Registered
2012 Outback 3.6R
Joined
·
511 Posts
The universal brake control installation kit comes with two circuit breakers. I run a power lead to the breakers from my battery. Mounted the breakers under the hood. One breaker is used for the power to the brake controller and the other for the charge line to the trailer.
The P3 has a very small power draw when it is in the sleep mode. But if I do not plan to tow for an extended time I remove the P3.
I mounted my P3 up high to the right of the steering wheel.
Brakes are too important to trust getting power from anywhere except the battery in my mind.

 

·
Registered
2017 2.5 Touring
Joined
·
1,412 Posts
You can do something like that, but if you have electric trailer brakes, you need the following:

Ground
Hot (optional)
Left
Right
Backup lights (optional)
Tail
Brake

That is seven. 5 wire minimum
 

·
Registered
2010 Outback 2.5i Sport, 6MT
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I took it to a shop to finish up the wiring.

They initially used the brown-white wire to the headlights, but the brake controller didn't like it.

He said he used the green-yellow wire and it seems to work, though I don't understand how when I look at the wiring diagram:



He didn't use the solenoid to switch the power to the trailer, he just wired it hot. I might add that in when I get the time...
 

·
Registered
2011 SSM Outback 2.5i Premium
Joined
·
2,103 Posts
To answer the response regarding the battery on the tongue. I imagine most (or all) trailers with electric brakes will have one. It would be needed to energize the brakes in the event the trailer parts with the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
2017 2.5 Touring
Joined
·
1,412 Posts
I don't, actually. I added brakes, so it didn't have it from the factory, so I'm no worse off with a separation now than before I added the Brake Kit.
 

·
Registered
2017 2.5 Touring
Joined
·
1,412 Posts
I don't, actually. I added brakes, so it didn't have it from the factory, so I'm no worse off with a separation now than before I added the Brake Kit.

Just thought of something: Without the trailer 7 pin plug supplying current from the controller, they wouldn't actuate anyway.
 

·
Registered
2011 SSM Outback 2.5i Premium
Joined
·
2,103 Posts
I don't, actually. I added brakes, so it didn't have it from the factory, so I'm no worse off with a separation now than before I added the Brake Kit.

Just thought of something: Without the trailer 7 pin plug supplying current from the controller, they wouldn't actuate anyway.
There's a box on the tongue that has a cable you attach to the tow vehicle. That cable is attached to a piece that slides out, when that piece slides out the brakes are actuated.

FMVSS on breakaway brakes

Breakaway kit
 

·
Registered
2011 Outback 2.5i Premium, CVT, Steel Silver, all-weather package. Upgrades: Tweeter kit, BlueConnect, media hub, remote start, Curt 2" receiver hitch.
Joined
·
1,127 Posts
Every state is different. In Maryland, a trailer over 3,000 pounds needs brakes. However, ANY trailer (even under 3,000 pounds) that has brakes MUST have a breakaway device. Not that trailer laws are enforced all that carefully, though.

My new trailer doesn't have brakes, but it does have the backing flanges on the axle. I'm considering adding brakes to it. I'll probably do it once I find a nice way to install a P2 or P3 controller.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top