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2010, 2.5, CVT
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a crack, or nick, in my rubber transmission cooler hose back by the transmission. It has blue ink on it (the other of course has red). Do these lines carry coolant back to the transmission, or oil to the cooler in front?

I need to know if I should buy coolant or CVT fluid to replace what will will be lost. Also, I'm not sure which is the inlet or which is the outlet so I can order the correct line. I'm assuming blue would be inlet (cool oil or coolant) but I want to verify my assumption.

I know the pics looks like coolant, but I didn't think coolant went back to the tranny.

Thanks!

PS, if anyone needs to know in the future, I believe the PNs are:
45520AJ000 inlet
45520AJ010 outlet
 

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The hoses carry ATF from the transmission to the ATF cooler in the radiator and then back to the transmission.

How many miles on the car? Those hoses are/should be covered by the extended warranty, (5/60k) -- they were on my 07 because they were seeping.

And yes, there will be some loss of ATF requiring at least topping up with the special Subaru CVT fluid. In my case, when the hoses were replaced on my 07, the technician drained the pan and refilled afterward with new Subaru HP fluid (for the 4EAT), so I got a fluid change under the warranty as well.
 

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2010, 2.5, CVT
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Discussion Starter #3
10K miles on the car, but it is not under warranty as I have a salvage title. I'll be doing all the work myself on the car, and considering it's age and mileage, I'm hoping it will be very little. Well, there is this and possibly my rear main seal is leaking. I'm still tracking that down, but that is one I won't fix myself. Don't feel like pulling an engine.
 

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If you get the genuine Subaru replacement hoses, they will come molded to shape. While they will fit better one way (the photos show how they are bent differently) it wouldn't matter if they were mixed up. Both hoses should be the same material, have the same inner and outer diameter, and fit the same metal pipes. Moreover, it wouldn't really matter if the hoses were crossed. The ATF will still flow through the lines and the cooler and back to the transmission. There's nothing in the lines, or cooler, that is "directional". But with the oem replacements, and noting which one goes on which pair of pipes before taking them off, mixing is not too likely.

Might want to get new clamps at the same time.

Let us know how it turns out.
 

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2010, 2.5, CVT
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Discussion Starter #5
Went ahead an replaced both lines. Very little fluid loss. No more leak or worry of line failing.
 

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2010 Outback 2.5i Limited CVT
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11 Posts
Went ahead an replaced both lines. Very little fluid loss. No more leak or worry of line failing.
I'm about to do the timing belt and thought I'd tackle this at the same time. Would you mind giving some detail on how you managed to do it without losing too much fluid? Any pointers would be much appreciated!
 

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'13 Outback 3.6R
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77 Posts
I'm about to do the timing belt and thought I'd tackle this at the same time. Would you mind giving some detail on how you managed to do it without losing too much fluid? Any pointers would be much appreciated!
I just added an OB transmission cooler to my Legacy (used all OB parts) last week which involved disconnecting these lines. If you follow the line, there really is no way to isolate the lines. All you can do is disconnect them and have a catch pan underneath. I lost a lot less than I expected. Subaru does sell CVT fluid in quart containers though.


It is a tight area and removing the hose clamps was a PITA. To make life easier, I purchased a few new hose clamps from Subaru (P/N: 909170062, about $2.63 ea) . They come held open with a small catch so all you have to do is put them in position and release the catch for them to snap into position. Some of the ones I removed had the catch but would not hold open.


The new clamps made installation a breeze:


1. Fumble, curse, and remove hoses (with catch pan)
2. Clean up any mess
3. Slide two (2) clamps on each new hose
4. Lightly lubricate hard lines and push on new hoses
5. Move clamps into position, release catch, done


CVT Fill procedure


1. Ensure car is level
2. With car on lift (or jackstands) start car with foot on brake, shift from P>R>N>D and then D>N>R>P, leave car idling
3. Check for any leaks
4. With car idling in park, remove CVT fill plug (10mm allen bit), and top off CVT fluid until it just runs out of hole
5. Reinstall plug (36.9 ft lbs)
6. Turn off car, clean up any mess, and lower car to ground
 

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Registered
2010 Outback 2.5i Limited CVT
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I just added an OB transmission cooler to my Legacy (used all OB parts) last week which involved disconnecting these lines. If you follow the line, there really is no way to isolate the lines. All you can do is disconnect them and have a catch pan underneath. I lost a lot less than I expected. Subaru does sell CVT fluid in quart containers though.


It is a tight area and removing the hose clamps was a PITA. To make life easier, I purchased a few new hose clamps from Subaru (P/N: 909170062, about $2.63 ea) . They come held open with a small catch so all you have to do is put them in position and release the catch for them to snap into position. Some of the ones I removed had the catch but would not hold open.


The new clamps made installation a breeze:


1. Fumble, curse, and remove hoses (with catch pan)
2. Clean up any mess
3. Slide two (2) clamps on each new hose
4. Lightly lubricate hard lines and push on new hoses
5. Move clamps into position, release catch, done


CVT Fill procedure


1. Ensure car is level
2. With car on lift (or jackstands) start car with foot on brake, shift from P>R>N>D and then D>N>R>P, leave car idling
3. Check for any leaks
4. With car idling in park, remove CVT fill plug (10mm allen bit), and top off CVT fluid until it just runs out of hole
5. Reinstall plug (36.9 ft lbs)
6. Turn off car, clean up any mess, and lower car to ground


Thank you! This is so helpful. I purchased the lines and clamps, just needed some help on the process. Do you recall what size the drain plug was?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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'13 Outback 3.6R
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77 Posts
Thank you! This is so helpful. I purchased the lines and clamps, just needed some help on the process. Do you recall what size the drain plug was?

I think you mean fill plug? Don't drain the CVT unless you have to, fluid is about $13/qt. Mine was located on the rear of the CVT and requires a 10mm Allen head socket. The exhaust pipe is close by, so be careful.


There is a gasket on the plug that may or may not need to be replaced after you remove the plug.
 

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2010 Outback 2.5i Limited CVT
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11 Posts
I think you mean fill plug? Don't drain the CVT unless you have to, fluid is about $13/qt. Mine was located on the rear of the CVT and requires a 10mm Allen head socket. The exhaust pipe is close by, so be careful.


There is a gasket on the plug that may or may not need to be replaced after you remove the plug.


I did see that you specified the fill plug size, but it does make sense to not drain at all since the dealer just replaced my torque converter!

I think I might try to skip hassling with the cooler lines and just pull the rad fan assembly. There should be enough room to the TB job. Thanks again for your help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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