Transmission damage (CVT)?
Hi, guys:
My wife accidentally switched the CVT to manual(3) and drove for 6 miles with high rpm (4000 or so). Does this will cause any damage to the CVT? How to check this?
Thanks,
My wife accidentally switched the CVT to manual(3) and drove for 6 miles with high rpm (4000 or so). Does this will cause any damage to the CVT? How to check this?
Thanks,
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He said "accidentally". I don't see the issue. She sees the big "3" displayed, notes the higher RPM but doesn't know why/how it happened. Silly, but not unfeasible.
4k rpm? Big deal, the red line is 6.5k...Hi, guys:
My wife accidentally switched the CVT to manual(3) and drove for 6 miles with high rpm (4000 or so). Does this will cause any damage to the CVT? How to check this?
Thanks,
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Cant hurt the car doing that it won't let you. However she probably killed your mileage average so don't get upset if your tank average is really poor.
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Not really but yes the car can run at 4000 rpm with out damaging it
This is probably a worst case situation......for the MPG of that tank that is.
Newer cars defend themselves from the "stupid" or "uneducated" - kind of like what the diesels do for "over-rev protection" - press the pedal all you want; however, at a certain RPM point, that's it, no more. No gain and no harm.
2013 Legacy Lim CVT Car: 2011 OB Prem 6MT Car: 2006 Miata GT 6MT mc: 2003 Honda GL1800A * Reunite Gondwanaland *
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"It is impossible to make anything foolproof, because fools are so ingenious."
-- Heinlein
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The only way to hurt a CVT is by going from forward to reverse and back without fully stopping the car.
She didn't do anything detrimental except to the gas mileage. If she really pushed it hard either the car would not go any faster (like my CVT Justy) or the computer will force an upshift. I am not sure which the modern CVT will do.
She didn't do anything detrimental except to the gas mileage. If she really pushed it hard either the car would not go any faster (like my CVT Justy) or the computer will force an upshift. I am not sure which the modern CVT will do.
2014 Outback Limited - 2.5 CVT - Graphite ---- 'Rehomed' 2012 Outback Limited - 2.5 CVT - Deep Indigo Pearl - Could be a Black Bumper Masonite car ---- "RIP" 2010 Outback - 2.5 CVT - Silver - So's m
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On long flat highways (like Kansas), I'll switch to 'manual' to keep the trany in '6'.
Not sure if this helps/hurts MPG or damages trany.
I forget the trany is in manual when exiting onto local roads. The trany is smarter than me. It switches to '1' and stays there until I shift or go to 'auto'.
--- Knocking on wood grain plastic ---- So far doesn't appear to have hurt anything.
Not sure if this helps/hurts MPG or damages trany.
I forget the trany is in manual when exiting onto local roads. The trany is smarter than me. It switches to '1' and stays there until I shift or go to 'auto'.
--- Knocking on wood grain plastic ---- So far doesn't appear to have hurt anything.
I checked the Outback yesterday. It indeed can be easily shifted to manual mode with accidental touch. I have been driving a manual Honda Civic for more than 10 years before I bought this Outback. I tried the Paddle shift for the first time yesterday. It works pretty well. I would like to test it when I go skii this season.
Thank you guys for the input!
Thank you guys for the input!
Just "blip" into 6th gear without switching to manual and it should stay there unless you drastically change acceleration, etc... (you don't need to go into manual mode) Should not hurt anything the way that you are doing things, IMHO.
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By design all engines are tuned to be most efficient at certain RPM ranges - I can 100% promise you that lugging the car in 6th is not its designed max efficient RPM vs load etc.
I tried this with my MT subaru years ago drove it for several months keeping the RPMS as low as possible borderline lugging pretty much all the time - my mileage took a major nose dive. I went back to my more normal driving habit and the mileage jumped back up to what it got for many years 24-25mpg around town and on long trips 26-27mpg.
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Winter ski trips and foul weather I leave it in AT mode and down shift with the paddle to help manage down hill speeds and to avoid adding brake use to already challenging slick road conditions it works pretty well. Only time I generally use Manual mode is when I'm off road - towing the boat up the boat ramp, plowing my way out of a snowed in parking spot. Or getting a little sporty in the canyon where holding 2nd to power out of a curve and manage speed with throttle vs brakes etc is in play.
It will force it. No bouncing off the rev limiter around turns.
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