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Hello! I hope you can help me with some advice as to what to do.

2001 Outback LL Bean, automatic tranny.

The transmission was shifting hard, especially on hills where it would "hunt" between 3rd and 4th. I started driving it in 3rd just before it grenaded because the shift to 4th was so hard I thought it was going to break something...it did.

Anyway, I looked up the problem about a week ago and came acroos the information here regarding the pump seal and using Trans-X, etc. I did all that. Changed the filter, installed Mobil 1 and Trans-X, etc.

It seemed to be noticeably better almost immediately, but about 2 days after the work I was accelerating into traffic and it made a LOUD noise as something in the tranny let loose. From inside the car it sounded like a driveshaft u-joint broke and the drive shaft was dragging down the road (yes, I know EXACTLY what that sounds like...lol).

The car is "driveable" in the sense that it will move. But, it is making that noise like a dragging drivesahft from inside the tranny. There are no fluid leaks and no external damage that I can see. Also, when I put it in Park it is making a noise like 2 cogs not quite meshing together.

So, I live in a small town and there is nobody up here qualified to work on this transmission. I'm just not sure what to do. Jasper does not carry this transmission. I did find one used off of a website for $1300, but I'm afraid that it will have the same problems...although, this is actually a pretty good transmission from what I can tell. Jasper said they don't carry it because it doesn't fail enough for them to justify the cost of rebuilding and stocking them.

What about rebuilding it myself? I have a ton of specialty tools and my neighbor across the street has an auto repair shop and would have anything I need tool-wise. I looked at kits, but there are different kits to rebuild different parts of the transmission and I don't know what broke. Also, while I am a good mechanic, I'm not a transmission mechanic, and I'll bet this thing is ridiculously complicated.

I just don't know what to do and I'm hoping for some insight or advice.

Thanks.
-Kevin
 

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01 Outback H6 VDC, 97 GT wgn w/ ej22, 98 OBW w/ej22
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go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and find an affordable trans close to home, sort by distance. then look for a chaper trans that will require shipping, add about $150 to the trans price for shipping. now pick the one you want to install.

you should be able to use any trans out of an ll bean car, H6, 3.0L, with auto trans (no manual trans were ever available) years 01 - 03 (maybe 04). you will have to search each year separately.

i just did one on my VDC, 1000 for the trans, 150 to ship, 800 to install. the labor was WAY too high. i think they ripped me off. but i was back on the road for less than $2000 and the car was cheap to buy with a bad trans. really cheap.

labor to install should run around 500 - 600, maybe less. i think the book on the job is 3.5 hours.
you can do it your self if you have the space and can get hold of a trans jack. not impossible. you and your neighbor should be to do it on a saturday. and only $200 ?/?/?/?/?/? or less?????

no need to remove the trans oil pan. but new fluid will be a plus. it will probably come drained. new external filter could also be done but not required. they are good for life, supposedly.
 

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01 Outback H6 VDC, 97 GT wgn w/ ej22, 98 OBW w/ej22
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NOTE: read up on how to seat the torque converter before you start the job. failure to do so will kill the new trans. it is not hard to do, but you have to know it needs doing.

some folks are careful not to let the TC move during remove and install, but i always re-seat them just to be sure. it is not hard.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925

the original pics are gone so i have added some that i took today. not perfect pics but better than none. if i get better ones while i can still edit i will add them.

how to seat your torque converter , by mnwolftrack (copied from http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=672461&postcount=64 )

torque converter not seated.


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Below is a picture of the first stopping point when sliding the torque converter into the transmission (assuming it had been completely removed). The first stopping point can vary a little bit, so don't be too concerned if yours stops in a slightly different spot.

As this picture shows, the torque converter is not fully seated yet, the flange which is roughly an inch away from the front mounting surface of the transmission:



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From here, I make a "fishhook" with my pointer finger on one hand and suspend the tip of the torque converter in the "hook" to hold it's weight as if it were fully seated. This helps prevent the torque converter from binding when trying to seat it (makes seating easier). Then, I spin the torque converter clockwise a few times and then counter clock wise a few times to see if it will catch to get to the second stopping point (if a few spins don't do it, I do a few more. If it's still a no go, I pull the torque converter back out and put it back in in a different position). Here's a picture of the second stopping point (easliy confused for fully seated) :


second stop pic below:


If you think the torque converter is fully seated (above photo) at the second stopping point, it's NOT! It needs to go another 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

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To get the torque converter to fully seat, I spin in the opposite direction that just did that got it to seat in the 2nd stopping point. Then, when fully seated, it will look like this: (notice how close the face of the flange is compared to the engine mating face of the trans.)




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