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98 Legacy Outback
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright everyone, I got the P0325 code and I did some research about it. I decided it was a cracked knock sensor like everyone says happens to them... Well I pulled it off and looked it over really well and it wasn't cracked but I already bought a new one so I decided to put the new one on. I put it on and started up my car and it starts up fine but then dies after a second, then if I give it gas it will die even quicker. Now when I scan for codes it doesn't show any codes. I put the old sensor back on and now the same thing. I'm not incompetent in working on cars but I'm also no expert. Any help?
 

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If the engine was fine before, then an electrical connector might have been knocked loose, or a vacuum hose was pulled off inadvertently. These are common problems especially when working in the limited spaces around the engine. Go back over everything you did, and check wiring and hoses in the area.

By the way, not all Subarus are identical. We need your car's year, model, engine, transmission information to be sure the information we provide is relevant. Perhaps include it in the post, or in your ID information at the left (go to UserCP and fill in the information).
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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19,222 Posts
If the engine was fine before, then an electrical connector might have been knocked loose, or a vacuum hose was pulled off inadvertently. These are common problems especially when working in the limited spaces around the engine. Go back over everything you did, and check wiring and hoses in the area.

By the way, not all Subarus are identical. We need your car's year, model, engine, transmission information to be sure the information we provide is relevant. Perhaps include it in the post, or in your ID information at the left (go to UserCP and fill in the information).
^^^yep - possibly the IACV hose got knocked loose.
 

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98 Legacy Outback
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh I meant to put that info in my post but it slipped my mind. It is a 98 legacy outback 2.5 with about 140k miles. By the way thanks for the reply guys, I figured I knocked something loose but I honestly can't find it. I'll keep looking.
 

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2013 OB 3.6R Limited, Black Silica
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382 Posts
As rule, whenever I changed a sensor, i pull the battery cables off, turn on ignition for 30 secs then hook back up to reset computer. This my first subie and have never worked on one, but with other cars I have had, an ECM reset was beneficial when swapping sensor components. Actually not even sure if that resets a Subie?
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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As rule, whenever I changed a sensor, i pull the battery cables off, turn on ignition for 30 secs then hook back up to reset computer. This my first subie and have never worked on one, but with other cars I have had, an ECM reset was beneficial when swapping sensor components. Actually not even sure if that resets a Subie?
Actually, with a Subaru, when it sets a knock sensor code, you can replace it without disconnecting the battery or resetting the ECM to erase the code. The first time it is started, the ECM sees that the problem is corrected and the MIL (CEL) goes out.
 

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98 Legacy Outback
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got my ca up and running can the code was gone but now it came back... I'm not sure where to look now. I looked at the white connector and it looks fine, so I'm not sure where else the wire goes. Could this code mean a bigger problem?
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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It could be a loose fit at the sensor, a break or fray in the wire somewhere to the harness, you bought a faulty sensor or it was overtightened. Highly unlikely it's the ECM.

If the knock sensor and circuit are good, look into the timing belt, fuel delivery and cam & crank sensors.
 

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Do some searching about P0325 using Google. There's a lot of hits from various discussion groups, some not indicating any final solution but suggesting possible causes, while others, such as Still getting P0325 CE even after replacing knock sensor. What next? - NASIOC, seemed to have resolved the problem, at least in the case of the OP (see post #13). Perhaps this thread, or another, might help . . .
 

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98 Legacy Outback
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fixed it. I put a different knock sensor in and a new PVC valve, I don't think it was the PVC valve since the one I took off seemed to be okay, it was only a few bucks for a new one anyways so I just replaced it. Thanks everyone for the help.
 

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'98 Legacy Outback 2.5, 149000km
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3 Posts
I'm in the middle of this job myself and am wondering about the importance of re-installing the sensor at that 45 degree angle that several instructions have indicated.
What is the reason for this and will there be a problem if I don't?

Thanks team!
By the way this is my first post and I'm a newbie to this forum.. aside from the HOURS I've spent reading all the knowledgeable posts in the past week. Love this place already.
 

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98 Legacy Outback
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The 45 degree angle is just the best routing for the wire to the connector. It shouldn't be to important but you don't want your wire wrapping backwards to the connector, also I think there could be a possibility of you breaking the new knock sensor if you have it at a weird angle and tighten down the bolt pressing on the side where the wire comes out.

All I did was connect the wire before tightening it down and it seemed to make sure it was in a good place.
 

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'98 Legacy Outback 2.5, 149000km
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Thanks!

As for breaking the sensor due to the incorrect angle: I doubt that.. it shouldn't have uneven pressure distribution from the bolt head unless the sensor itself wasn't properly seated.

As a final note.. it was a serious pain in the butt to work in that little area without removing the intake manifold. going to be happy if I never have to do that again!
 
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