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I have a blown turbo and have purchased a new one from BNR Supercars along with new oil lines. I have removed the blown turbo and have found that the inlet pipe at the compressor inlet is ripped. It was ripped by the dealer because you can see that they wrapped electrical tape around it to mask the rip.

I can't figure out how to replace the inlet pipe without removing the intake manifold. I also can't figure out how to remove the manifold because it's hard to decide what comes off and what stays.

I'm just stuck and not sure how to proceed.

I also found that the inlet pipe was completely loose on the turbo along with other bolts and missing bolts. I think it's too bad that we try to take care of our cars and the dealer's mechanics could care less.

I like the idea of doing this myself but I really got myself into something more than I expected. Any help is appreciated.

John
 

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05 Xt beatin' to an inch of its life
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The inlet pipe can be removed with the intake manifold on. It usually needs to be cut and removed. Speaking from experience, a larger, more durable silicon inlet can be installed without intake removal, but can be a pain. Removal and reinstallation of the manifold is not that difficult, just takes time.
 

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I looked at the perin inlet and I saw that others were having a problem due to it rubbing against the steering fluid line. If the maniflod can come off is there any place I can go to get some type of instructions on this. It seems very complicated to me.

Here is a picture of the Perin and the stock one has a hole at the top near the compressor inlet that is not on the Perin. What is this and why doesn't the Perin have it. This is the one part that I can't see can come out unless the manifold is removed.
 

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05 Xt beatin' to an inch of its life
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Count the vacuum ports, 4 on each. The larger one on top of the stock inlet is no longer usable on the perrin inlet because of the diameter of the pipe. Take a look at the manifold on the vehicle, its really not that bad. Intercooler comes off, throttle body harness, vacuum lines, fuel feed lines, and your done. 1 hour tops. May want to remove tumble generator valves while your in there. They can fail closed.
 

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I've heard of killing a car, however this takes the cake. :17:
What did he use on that, a .357 Magnum or a .44 Magnum? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Count the vacuum ports, 4 on each. The larger one on top of the stock inlet is no longer usable on the perrin inlet because of the diameter of the pipe. Take a look at the manifold on the vehicle, its really not that bad. Intercooler comes off, throttle body harness, vacuum lines, fuel feed lines, and your done. 1 hour tops. May want to remove tumble generator valves while your in there. They can fail closed.

You also mention tumble generator valves. What are they, where are they and why don't I need them?

I was also told to replace the oil control valves. Can you tell me where they are, what they are and if I should replace them?

I guess it would be nice if I had a manual but I don't know where to pick one up?

Thanks.
 

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05 Xt beatin' to an inch of its life
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The tgr valves are directly under the intake manifold runners, on top of the intake port of the heads. The housings, two per side, can be completely removed, gutted of the valving, and reinstalled. They are cold start emission related equipment. If removed, a constant trouble code will be generated in the ecu and must be turned off permanently. They can impede airflow with higher flowing turbos. If you plan to remain stock, they can be left in place. The oil control valves operate the avcs equipment. They can gum up and cause cam phasing issues. As long as you perform frequent oil changes they should not be a problem. I believe you may be thinking of the turbocharger center section oil feed line filter issue. This should be completely removed if you perform the inlet removal. Your best bet is to just purchase a replacement stainless steel braided turbo feed line.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Inlet pipe is out.

I never could get the manifold off but I was able to raise the manifold enough to give me just enough access. This was not easy and now I need to decide on if I should replace with the Perin or buy a new Subaru part.

Their is actually 5 ports on the Sub. part and I'm guessing the Perin has a T and extra hose to connect.
 

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I replaced this not long ago and it was a pain. When I put the new one in I had to flatten it a little as I guided it in. I also didn't remove the manifold because it was way to complicated. The Perrin may last longer since it is silicone vs rubber (maybe).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I ordered the Perin inlet and was wondering if the turbo can be installed back before the inlet. Which was would be easier?
 

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I would install the inlet first, if the turbo is off. I'm just guessing, but, t should be easier to push the inlet from the back (turbo) to the front of the car with the turbo off. Then you would have it in place and can connect it to the turbo.
 

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Do both at the same time... don't install all the hoses to the inlet till the turbo is placed and your inlet is seated. If I had to do all of this again I would have bought the factory inlet. My main reason for the Perrin was the fact it's better material.

Issue comes down to fitment. The new pipe is meant to cover several years. The BOV hose had to move forward for some air pump solenoid placed in 07 and 09. So for my 06 the BOV location was a stretch. The other nick was wire harness to the front sensors needed to be rerouted, in all not all that difficult.

I have trimmed off about 3/4" off the air box side to get the MAF hose mounted without an added kink and pushing the airbox back. May trim another ½ off or so.

This is what you get with aftermarket though; it’s not perfect but runs much better with it all tight.

Your experience with the dealer techs is similar to mine. I will not go back to the dealer for anything but parts. Parts guy knows me by name now. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Needed help

I received the perrin and I do wish I had ordered the OEM since I'm not 5 minutes into this and stuck.

I attached two pictures and the one shows a part that I first don't know what it is and secondly I don't see any way that it can connect to the Perrin.

Thanks for the help.
 

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05 Xt beatin' to an inch of its life
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I believe you can de-pin, i.e. remove the pin in the sensor input from its connector and insert it right into the plug to complete the circuit and keep the ecu from throwing the check engine light on. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother converting it over. Id just fit whatever hose was supposed to connect to/thru it right to the post on the new inlet.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No Clue

I believe you can de-pin, i.e. remove the pin in the sensor input from its connector and insert it right into the plug to complete the circuit and keep the ecu from throwing the check engine light on. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother converting it over. Id just fit whatever hose was supposed to connect to/thru it right to the post on the new inlet.

I understand what you're saying but what is this thing and will it matter if I remove it?
 

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IIRC its a PCV component. The circuit is there because the sensor needs to be on the engine for emissions compliance. The ecu looks to see the completed circuit and determines the valve is still connected to the engine. A PCV valve needs to have a good vacuum source to pull crank vapors back thru the inlet to be re-burned in the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
IIRC its a PCV component. The circuit is there because the sensor needs to be on the engine for emissions compliance. The ecu looks to see the completed circuit and determines the valve is still connected to the engine. A PCV valve needs to have a good vacuum source to pull crank vapors back thru the inlet to be re-burned in the engine.

So removing the sensor and shorting the pins is okay so long as the vacuum hose is connected.
 

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Correct. The vacuum hose does not need to be connected. But you should unless you have an air/oil separator setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Dummy Connector

Here is a picture of this fake sensor. It's function is only to make sure a hose is attached. How strange and might I add stupid.
 

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im right there with you bro my VF40 just give up at 140000 and i did a VF52 swap and that **** hose has been the Bane of my existence not only did it tear but it has been a nightmare getting it on the turbo itself and a piece got tore off or something and it clogged the intake side of the turbo so now it has to come off again....
 
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