[jes2]

I'm looking at the Turtle Wax line of Graphene waxes to protect my new Onyx (when I take delivery). I'm wondering if anyone has used them and what your experience with them is.

I'm thinking of doing a clay bar, then a paint correction, if needed, laying down a base of Graphene Max Wax. Washes with a PH neutral soap and using Flex wax as a drying aid to "boost" the wax once a month.

It also looks like you can use the Flex Wax on the plastics. I'd appreciate hearing your results and how the application went.

Thank you.

Sixgun, I'm just finishing up (as soon as I finish this cup of coffee) our '22 OB, using the following products:

• Mother's clay bar
• Meguiars Ultimate Polish (buffer applied)
• Meguiars Ultimate Wax (liquid - buffer applied)
• Turtle Wax Hybrid Solution Ceramic Spray Coating (double coating)

Our OB is fairly new and the clay bar process really didn't extract many contaminants. The paint now looks VERY good!

I've read where many fellow OB forum members use ceramic coatings on their plastic claddings, and have obtained good results. The Turtle Wax ceramic instructions does say you can use it on plastic.

I used the above process (and more) on our 2010 Chevy Malibu LTZ, and it had some significant paint issues on part of the roof and trunk lid. But - overall, it still looked really good when I finished. Took it to CarMax about 10 days ago, and I asked for top dollar. They barely checked the car over, and then promptly paid what I asked. The insanity in the used car market continues!

 

[Eddie_lv]

I have heard good thing about turtle, griots, and adams Spray wax. Just have to reapply more the other ceramics. When you notice the water stop sheeting and loose the hydrophobic effects. Just repeat the steps again. Easy peezy.

 

[Tin Wagon]

I’ve used to the tw ceramic a few times and then I tried the graphene products when they first came out. The graphene is pretty good, but I think the ceramic spray lasts longer and is easier to use. I think the tw ceramic is a good choice considering all of the factors. A few weeks ago I tried the griots garage 3 in 1 ceramic and it seems to be doing quite well, but I don’t think it has anything on the tw ceramic, and it costs quite a bit more. I use them on the plastic and exterior of the glass, also. I’ve never tried a drying aid. My normal routine for cleaning when I’m not putting on a sealant, is to go through a touch less car wash and then go home, finish drying it, then use a quick detailer. Griots speed shine is excellent. The ceramic speed shine is also great. It takes a little more effort, but it also adds a little bit of protection. There are many good car exterior products available now days, so don’t hesitate to try a few of them, you’ll find a few that you’ll prefer.

 

[CWRKR]

I use Turtle Wax Seal N Shine. Love it. I feel it outperforms all others.

 

[Bones 51]

I'm looking at the Turtle Wax line of Graphene waxes to protect my new Onyx (when I take delivery). I'm wondering if anyone has used them and what your experience with them is.

I'm thinking of doing a clay bar, then a paint correction, if needed, laying down a base of Graphene Max Wax. Washes with a PH neutral soap and using Flex wax as a drying aid to "boost" the wax once a month.

It also looks like you can use the Flex Wax on the plastics. I'd appreciate hearing your results and how the application went.

Thank you.

I used the graphene ceramic paste wax on my 2020 outback. I used it on all of the trim. It leaves no residue and the entire car seems to stay clean longer. I didn’t do any special prep work just an ordinary wash and dry. It’s my favorite new favorite.

 

[Overlandlouisiana]

If you are going to go through the steps to clay and polish then I recommend skipping the short life spray on coatings and invest in a longer term protection. I used Adams advanced graphene coating on my 4runner back in November and spent last weekend doing clay, two stage polish and then tne advanced graphene on my 2023 OB wilderness…. Its two weeks old. They claim 7-9 years protection. If i get 3 ill be pleased. It can be maintained with their graphene shampoos, detailers and boosts. Its not hard to apply. Simply wipe on as instructed and wipe off and buff. Easy peasy. I coated windows, wheels, plastics and paint. Everything really except the roof rails.

 

[Bones 51]

I used the turtle wax graphene ceramic paste wax on my 2020 outback. I used it on all of the trim. It leaves no residue and the entire car seems to stay clean longer. I didn’t do any special prep work just an ordinary wash and dry. It’s my favorite new product. I plan on using it again in the spring. No special prep. Just wash, dry, apply turtle wax graphene ceramic paste wax by hand. That’s all that’s needed. One product. Done.

 

[BattleWagon1823]

Personally, I use the Turtlewax Ceramic +Graphene Paste wax on the wife's car. It's much better than the Hybrid Solution spray on, but of course takes a little more time to apply. On my 23OB I used Adam's Graphene Ceramic (Real Ceramic). Kit cost $100. They give enough product to do 2 cars, so I sold the other half since I won't need to re-apply for 5-7 years. It's the best $50 I've ever spent on detail products. The hardest part was the prepping...which you're going to do anyway for wax. My paint has depth that wasn't there before and I just ceramic boost (which is like the turtle wax spray on stuff) every 3 washes. It's amazing how easy the brake dust comes off the rims. If you don't want to go that route, then get the TW paste and put it on thin twice a year.

 

[treybrad]

I like the Hybrid Solutions line quite a bit -- well, other than the 'Wash and Wax' soap, not a fan of that one. All of the other products I've tried have been winners -- the ceramic wax spray coating, the liquid polish and wax, the wheel and tire cleaner, the wet wax (I use as a drying aid/topper), and the tire shine.

I've used the liquid polish and wax product on previous cars without nearly the amount of black plastic as the OB and had good results. I like that it does at least a basic amount of correction/polish in one step when applied with an RO polisher. I skipped using that product (or anything to actually correct the paint) on the OB just because I didn't want to deal with the hassle of taping off all 350 linear feet of black plastic on the OB (kidding, kind of). I simply did a good prep job (iron decon, strip wash, clay, IPA wipe) and went to town with the spray on 'ceramic' coating -- plastics, roof rack and all.

So far it's holding up very well, but I'm also topping with the wet wax pretty much every wash since it's so easy to use.

Are y'all using the liquid wax or paste wax on the black plastic trim and not getting any white residue? I've never had a liquid/paste product not leave some kind of residue on black trim like we have -- but maybe I'm living in the past and this stuff avoids that problem?

 

[cyberdog433]

After using these products, the liquid TW Graphene holds up better, and is actually easier to apply than the spray. The spray may need damp wiping to prevent streaks, the liquid works more like traditional waxes, apply, haze, buff off. The use the spray periodically to reinforce the coating. - The liquid also seems to last longer than the spray.

Surprisingly good is also the Shine Armor all in one product, which does a fabulous job on the black trim, and keeps it looking black longer than most of the back-to-black products. It's super easy to apply, with truly a spray and wipe/buff off, with no white residue, just a very slick feeling coating that lasts longer than traditional waxes. I've actually applied the Shine Armor over the TW Graphene paste, to build ceramic over the Graphene base coat.

 

[BattleWagon1823]

A little off topic... but if you are looking for a great tire protection product, check out Adam's Graphene Tire Spray w/ Applicator. A little goes a long way...about 6 drops a tire and the applicator helps get the stuff into all the sidewall grooves. The applicator also keeps it off your rims. The product doesn't leave the tire, keeping your cladding/wheelwells clean. You can also use it on any black trim too. For trim, just apply and remove any excess after a minute.

Going back to TW, they make a great wheel and tire cleaner. Hybrid Solutions Rapid Decon Wheel Cleaner. I use this stuff on my wife's OB with great results.

 

[JLKnighten]

If the car is new,wash it with dish soap then apply whatever protective coating you choose. No reason to clay bar or polish.

 

[BattleWagon1823]

I kind of agree. It depends if you asked for the car to be prepped or not. I took delivery of my car not prepped so I didn't have to remove waxes left from the detail the dealers do. When they remove that while plastic from the car's hood, roof, and wheels it will leave some adhesives behind. The dealer usually polishes that stuff out and the polish isn't the shop ready stuff. It usually is a 1 step polish with silcone in it. Dish soap, clean slate, or any soap without wax will help remove that with some elbow grease. Wash until the paint doesn't bead at all. I deconed the paint and found no iron, so a claybar or iron remover is pretty much pointless. You machine polish or hand polish with a very fine compound any scratches you find and it will help remove the adhesive too especially around the nose and roof (by the rails, windshield, and shark fin).

 

[JLKnighten]

I always use dish soap before sealing the finish.It removes old wax and the thick suds suspend and carry grit away. I wonder if a trip through an automatic car wash would remove adhesive residue from the plastic sheeting? Maybe the pre-soak or tire foam at a coin operated car wash would dissolve it enough to spray off. The idea of using polish on a flawless clearcoat to remove adhesive doesn't sit well with my mind.How tough is this stuff? I can't imagine no clearcoat safe solvent exists that will melt the glue so a pressure washer can spray it off or wcs a terry cloth bar mop can scrub it off. Forgive my ignorance,I'm trying to understand and thinking aloud.

 

[BattleWagon1823]

I always use dish soap before sealing the finish.It removes old wax and the thick suds suspend and carry grit away. I wonder if a trip through an automatic car wash would remove adhesive residue from the plastic sheeting? Maybe the pre-soak or tire foam at a coin operated car wash would dissolve it enough to spray off. The idea of using polish on a flawless clearcoat to remove adhesive doesn't sit well with my mind.How tough is this stuff? I can't imagine no clearcoat safe solvent exists that will melt the glue so a pressure washer can spray it off or wcs a terry cloth bar mop can scrub it off. Forgive my ignorance,I'm trying to understand and thinking aloud.

It's stronger than the adhesive of box tape, but less than duck tape. You're not going to wash it off, but a microfiber and some elbow grease will work. A little wax would speed up the removal, but then you'll have to remove the wax afterwards with surface prep. You can easily find the adhesive by running your fingers along the paint and it only left residue need the edges of the plastic sheets in my case, so you don't have to worry about the middle of the roof or hood. The sides and rear don't have any plastic from the factory to worry about. In my case, my new car had several scratches on the nose (close to the hood). They were near the plastic sheet so it could have been from applying the plastic or transit. I used a very finishing compound to get those out otherwise I would be stuck with those until the ceramic coat wore away in 5-7 years.