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Two dtc codes u0101 p0890

12K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  guy-pc 
#1 ·
Just happened to be following my wife home when I saw here quickly pull over and turned on the hazards. I made my way over to here and she says the car had a bunch of indicators lights on and the car started to shake then shut down. She took a pic of the warner of lights. I jumped in the car and backed in into a near by parking lot. It ran a little rough but I was in a hurry to get out of traffic. It seemed like it was struggling to move. We jumped back into my work van to get my code reader, the other pics, and that's what I had. After getting the pics I started the car all was normal she followed me home and the car ran fine. I checked battery 14.3 running, grounds and any other connector I could get to. I don't know where the tcm is located. The car is a 13 2.5 OB. Any thoughts before I take it in? One more thing I took a video of the warning lights before moving the car and the CEL on, cruise and BRAKE flashing. My wife said there were lights flashing when the car died but she was not sure. She also said when she put it in park it still showed she was in Drive.
 

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#7 ·
No accessories added. I took it for a drive today without any issues. Went on bumpy roads stop and go traffic and it ran fine. I crawled under the car before taking it out for a drive and checked the wire connections and grounds. I have an appointment for Thursday at the dealership. I have a feeling I'm about to find out how my customers feel when I tell them "everything is working fine and I could varify the issue."
 
#8 ·
Update... bought the car to the dealership tonight to drop it off for my appointment tomorrow. the counter guy went over the notes I left with him when I scheduled the appointment, and said he was going to get the service manager and have him check for any codes. The car has been running fine. No new codes showed up, but there were old codes for the transmission, parking brake circuit, tpms. Most of the side were related to low voltage. As the service manager was waiting to download all codes from the entire system we started talking about the low voltage and the affects on the canbus. Then I remembered the driver window switch intermittently not working, the air bag light coming on two times and my son turning on the dome light or opening the hatch partially. So long story short I had the dealership replace the battery because they seem to think this maybe the source of the issue. They charged me for the battery only no labor.
 
#9 ·
Failing batteries on modern vehicles (which are essentially rolling computers) often throw spurious OBDII codes. Both of our Jaguars do it. When they begin throwing codes pointing to the transmission, traction control, door modules, ABS, etc., and then the next day they behave as if nothing happened, I know it is new battery time.

I will bet that your new battery will indeed cure your issues. Keep us posted.
 
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#10 ·
Thanks for reporting back - and posting what is essentially an important reminder to those of us who DIY repair and maintenance: Cover the basics first. Battery voltage would be one of them. I admit to reading this thread and immediately jumping to conclusions about the TCU. Good to get a Keep-It-Simple-Stupid slap in the face now and then :)

Also - kudos to your dealership.
 
#11 ·
I was expaecting a pretty serious repair. We don't drive the subaru much since we bought the new accord. In the summer the subaru sits and the winter we don't use the accord much.

The dealership has always been great. The had the car yesterday for an hour and had all sorts of diagnostic tools hooked up. The codes the were able to get they took the time to check them out. They told me about the battery and gave me a price then told me I could DIY cheaper. I told them as long as I was there put one in. It's not worth my time to look for and install one and more importantly they deserved a purchase from me for all the "free" labor they didn't have to do.
 
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