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'20 Outback Onyx XT AGM/'04 Forester XT
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Has anyone done a UOA on a known bad engine? I think it would be amusing to see what Blackstone thinks of a UOA from an engine with a hole in the block.
This is a post by the guy I mentioned:

I've mentioned the two very quickly failing engines I've had with sparkly oil that multiple UOAs did not pick up on. Upon teardowns, the rings were half the weight they were when the went in, cylinders were void of hone marks with a large wear ridge at the top, rod and main bearings were down nearly to the backing plates, and I had one cam lobe starting to go flat.

They're great for many other things and I plan on getting one done soon on the TL to check other things but I won't even look at the wear metals.

It's almost comical that people still base oil preference on a few PPM of wear metals with all of the info out there today.

I can’t find his good uoa on a bad engine using google search and he has a lot of posts from back in the day.
 

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2018 Outback 3.6R Limited
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133 Posts
This is a post by the guy I mentioned:




I can’t find his good uoa on a bad engine using google search and he has a lot of posts from back in the day.
Whoa! Now THERE'S a fly in the ointment!
 

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Super Moderator
2016 3.6 Limited with ES
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2,471 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Just got my Blackstone UOA after a nearly 7k run of PP 0w-40. This was about 1k less miles than the last couple of changes and that's only because I had things over the following two weekends and couldn't change it but otherwise, I would have run it to around 8k.

My last interval was during the hotest times in SoCal and I do severe bumper to bumper on a lot of days for dozens of miles at a time so once again, a 6k interval is very conservative with the caveat that it's my engine and my conditions so take from it what you want. The insoluables are as low as they can be and that's the filter (Ultra 9688) doing a very good job. I've never used the factory filter once it was taken off at 2.5k. One time using the M1 104 but all other changes were with the Ultra which shows there's no data driven reason for me to worship the high bypass setting in the blue can. Absolutely none.

My current run is the last of my BC 0w-30 that's SL rated and A3/B4. Once that one is done I might venture just to M1 0w-40 all year long or dabble into the M1 5w-30 that A5/B5. Later this year a new A6/B6 standard is coming out, along with a new GF6 and another revision to the Dex 1 spec.
 

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