Subaru Outback Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 05 rear suspension started squeaking real bad and Im told its the upper control arm bushings. The car is rust free Texas car with 111k and not used off road.

My question is should i replace the upper control arm or just the bushings.
How difficult is it to r&r the control arm?

Thanks in advance
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,918 Posts
The upper rear control arm is cast iron. It's bomber stout.

You need a press for the bushings, like any sleeved bushing. Beyond that, NBD. However, many aftermarket OEM replacement arms are pretty cheap these days and come loaded with new bushings.

For example, a Mevotech front LCA is about $70 all bushing and a ball joint included.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
I can't actually find an aftermarket part for this. Looks like my bushings are kind of shot.


I'm talking about 20250AE031 and 20250AE051 .

They do sell bushings alone. Total cost would be $40 versus $200 but need to figure out how to get old ones out and new ones in. I don't have a press.

I wonder if I should be replacing other stuff while I am in there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,918 Posts
I can't actually find an aftermarket part for this. Looks like my bushings are kind of shot.


I'm talking about 20250AE031 and 20250AE051 .

They do sell bushings alone. Total cost would be $40 versus $200 but need to figure out how to get old ones out and new ones in. I don't have a press.

I wonder if I should be replacing other stuff while I am in there.
Whiteline sells the inner and outer in a poly fixed bushing. They also sell an outer camber bushing which I recommend.

Prothane also sells inner and outer bushings for that are. keep in mind these are all poly.

If you want to preserve the stock ride, then just pick up a loaded arm. It would be easier than pressing all the bushings. However id you use poly, then you can burn and cut the old ones out. Poly can be pushed in with a clamp or vise vs a press.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,918 Posts
Yep, those will work. I would consider using the WL camber kit/bushing for the outer. You get an independent camber adjustment vs just the cambolt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
How do I get those ridiculously thin bushing sleeves out of the rear upper links?

Cut slots into them and them pry out? They are so thin, I can hardly tell where the sleeve ends and the actual arm starts.

I actually had to cut part of the inner bolt out to get it out. It seemed to loosen right up once I cut through the inner bushing sleeve. Not sure what was stuck to what but it wasn't budging.

My new toy M18 impact took the outer one out in 10 seconds... wish I could fit that in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
Minor detail - the Whiteline upper link outer bushing sleeve is not symmetrical - it's supposed to stick out beyond the bushing either to the rear of the vehicle or front... and maybe not the same left/right. Do you know which is which?

I took a pic of the driver hand side of the vehicle before disassembling and it appears to stick out to the rear. I'm assuming I'd follow that pattern with the new Whiteline but not sure if the passenger side goes the same way - probably?



Local shop took out old bushings for me... 25 bucks. Not bad. He said he had to torch out the old bushing, press wouldn't do it. The new ones push right in by hand at least for this particular arm.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,918 Posts
Facing the rear on both sides...You can see the WL camber kit in the last pic, barrel to the rear.

D*mn I am happy to have Colorado Cars...the rust.....Yikes. My cars look like this...and are holding up...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
Thank you again!

Yeah the rust is catching up..... in retrospect, I wish I had done undercoating every year. I wasn't thinking long term at the time.

I will at least scrape clean and paint whatever I replace. Also going to do some Cosmoline rust proofing this year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
So at the alignment shop today when looking at my busted driveshaft, the guy said these whiteline bushings were not working right. He was pushing at the top of the rear wheel and showing me how much play it has . Which seems like it makes sense , I feel like the car is wandering on the back end, almost like my rear wheels are under inflated.

I haven't really had a good look at it myself, but is there something I could have done wrong with these? W63396 and W63397.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073TC96O/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BED704G/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Basically just had the old bushings removed along with the outer sleeves and shoved the new ones in without an outer sleeve. Put it back together. Took me until now to get to the alignment shop .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,239 Posts
I know Energy Suspension USUALLY has you keep the outer sleeve when doing retro-fit bushings. They say it's because the bushing sleeve has a smoother/more consistent ID than the arm itself. I would imagine Whiteline is the same way.

I would contact them about the install procedure (I couldn't find an install guide online).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,918 Posts
Whiteline has you remove the whole bushing. I think the outer edge of the metal sleeve would cut it on the bushing shoulder.

I have installed the WL camber kit in several cars an it always fits so tight you can barely rotate it. With no weight on the car. The alignment guys hate it. The inner bushing I have done 2 times and that fit tight as well. In ALL cases I needed to file down the front edge of the WL bushing in order to press it in...yes press.

Something is wrong if they are loose. Bad bushing eye, were the old arms heated up to facilitate bushing removal, maybe they got distorted. this happens with the steel LCA rear bushing all the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
The shop heated to get the old ones out and the new ones slid in very easily (by hand....) so that seems like it could very well be my problem. Thanks for the info on that. Not sure I may have to end up putting in OEM ones without getting new arms?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,918 Posts
The shop heated to get the old ones out and the new ones slid in very easily (by hand....) so that seems like it could very well be my problem. Thanks for the info on that.
I think this may be the problem. In all of my cases, I drilled out the old bushing rubber and carefully cut the sleeve out, then just cleaned up the eye with a rotary wire brush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
After pressing out the old, my adjustable outer bushings from Whiteline went in by hand, but once on the car were pretty hard to move. Especially with the suspension at full drop as the upper arm bushings kind of bind up that way. I pressed in new OEM inners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Are the aftermarket control arms any on eBay for $69.48/pair any good? I'd post a link but the forum will not allow it.

The inner bushings on mine wore through the thin metal such that to remove the bushing, I only had 3/8" of the thin steel part of the bushing left to cut through to make removal easier. I cut strips out of the tire sidewall from the tire whose life was shortened by the worn bushings. I wrapped the tire rubber strip around the steel part of the bushing the bolt goes through and forced the combination into the worn control arm. Haven't measured camber but it is visually noticeably improved.

If the inexpensive arms on eBay are not good then I'm thinking my homemade bushings will at least last enough to drive to a junkyard and pull some OEM arms
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top