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Ok I need a car around 10/12 grand to last me three years while we save up. Dealer wants 10,000 for a used 2012 3.6R Limited w 150k miles. Is this a bad decision!? Carfax looks clean, 1 owner. Could I get 30k more miles out of this car without having to invest a tremendous amount?
 

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2011 Outback Limited 2.5
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I'm in the same boat, found a 2010 3.6R with 120K for $10k...Watching to see what people's thoughts are
 

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Any car with 150k miles is really rolling the dice. Now a Subaru with that high of mileage is really taking on a huge risk.. especially if you are not a DIY person. If it was the 2.5 I would say R-U-N! The 3.6 certainly is better with far fewer issues but one of the biggest unknowns will be the CVT. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164446-0001.pdf

IMO, used Subarus are typically way overpriced at the $10k price range (especially with that high of mileage). I would never spend that much on a nearly 10 yr old Subaru with that kind of mileage. Did it twice. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice...
 

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I am also looking for a 2011 or 2012 3.6 Outback. A local mechanic that works on a lot of Subarus said some of the 2013's had a CVT issue. I would really like to find an original owner selling it themselves rather than buying from a dealer. Dealers seem to want $2-3K more than they are worth and you know little about the car other than a carfax report. I think a carfax is worth it because I found a 2011 3.6 a couple of weeks ago that the original owner had for 7 years then 3 owners in the past 2 years. That was a red flag for me so I passed on that one.
 

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I have a 2004 Outback that got my daughter through high school then I've used it as my commuter car for the past 8 years. It currently has 347K miles on it and still going. I had to do a head gasket at 260K and front axles around 300K. I bought it used with 160K miles. The original owner always kept it in top condition and all the miles were highway miles. I personally think the type of driving has a lot to do with the life of any vehicle. A mechanic once told me he would rather have a car with 200K highway miles than a car with 75K city miles.
 

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'10 3.6R Outback Limited, 2zr swapped Toyota Yaris track toy, '05 AWD Pontiac Vibe
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IMO I wouldn't recommend it. As stated above they tend to be overpriced. It would last you 3 reliable years but only if you put a handful of money in it.

If $10k is your max budget then I'd highly recommend buying a Toyota for a few grand under your budget and then pocketing the rest incase there are repairs down the road. Those repairs will likely just be wear items and not big ticket items like pulling an engine for head gaskets etc.

Keep in mind I purchased a 160k mile 2010 3.6R last year and have posted about all the thing I have needed to do to it. I only paid $3200 for it so I had no problem with it but there is no way I would ever have paid anywhere close to $10k for one.
 

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If driving in mountain snow there is no comparison. The Outback will go where the Toyota Highlander can not. Everything is a trade-off no matter what it is.
 

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2015 3.6R Limited w/ES
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Wow, the 6 is great, but that's crazy high for a car with 150k unless they back it with a very good warranty.
 

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2018 3.6R Limited
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Well 2012 3.6R does not come with CVT; regardless that's a lot of miles. If you're tight on budget I'd suggest get one of cars that lose value quickly but don't have terrible reliability record, like Hyundai or such.
 

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both examples seem overpriced for the mileage.
While there are less concerns and experiences of the 3.6 engine and transmission having major breakdown, other components such as wheel bearings, struts, CV joints, etc.will be worn. If you are a DIYer, set an allowance for these repairs and then make your best offer. If you use a repair shop, it is unlikely this purchase makes financial sense.
 

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A 2012 with 150K on it was driven between 19 (if they bought in 2011) and 21K a year (if they bought in 2012)

what they go for here:

478672


you are going to be hard pressed to find one for $10K outside of buying it from and individual and even then it will be tough


the higest one mileage wise is 265K so yeah they can go a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG TIME with proper maintenance.

what does a 10K 3.6R get you? an average car that is coming due for maintenance...

I paid 9200 for mine a 2010 3.6R Premium with 140K and I had to do or will have to do

1. New fluids (all of them)
2. New air filter for engine and cabin
3. New sway bar bushings front and rear
4. trans drain and fill 3x
5. New brake fluid
6. New spark pugs
7. New tires
8. New struts/shocks*
9. New Serpentine belt
10. Restore and aim headlights
11. Change every single exterior bulb incl. headlights.
12. PS fluid change
13. Coolant change*
14. New plugs*

*denotes spring time work.
 

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17 MX-5 RF, 10 Outback 3.6R
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I agree $10k seems high, but you'll get that from a dealer. Unless you are getting a great warranty (unlikely at that mileage) than I'd look to buy from a private party. At least that way you can meet the owner and determine if they seem like the type that took good care of the car, review service records if they have any, and likely get a better price. I paid $5600 for a 2010 3.6r with 163k miles and have had to invest about $1,000 in repairs/maintenance but with the work done the car feels great and I trust it to run for at least another 50k miles. Unless the car needs nothing, I wouldn't pay more than 6,000-7,000 for a 3.6 at that mileage.
 

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'10 3.6R Outback Limited, 2zr swapped Toyota Yaris track toy, '05 AWD Pontiac Vibe
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If driving in mountain snow there is no comparison. The Outback will go where the Toyota Highlander can not. Everything is a trade-off no matter what it is.
Having driven an older highlander and currently own a 2010 OB 3.6R I have to disagree. With winter tires on both cars the Highlander will not have an issue getting you through any snow that the OB can get you through. The only difference will be slight wheel slip in the front of the Highlander before the rear kicks in. This will be almost unnoticable in the snow and is really only detectable on steep gravel driveways.

IMO the gap between Subaru and other manufacturers AWD systems is getting smaller and smaller, especially with the newest Subaru's. Much of this is due to CAFE standards and Subaru trying ti improve their fleet fuel efficiency numbers. The design of the symmetrical Subaru system trumps any others due to the lower overall weight of the system but how it actually performs isn't all that much better for most daily driving on public roads.
 

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2014 Subaru Outback 2.5 Premium
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The car itself if properly maintained will get you the mileage you are looking for no issues at all. The price is relative to your area especially with Subarus because they have area where they go for premiums and others where they are average priced. If it seems like a well maintained car drives nice and even better would be Carfax records or service records 10k isn't bad. Your not getting a deal but it should serve your needs well.
 

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2011 Outback Limited. White, Sunroof, 2.5, CVT. Bought 2/15/11. Love it! Broke 109K, 2/20.
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I recently saw an article about Subaru pricing. Specifically it was about the vehicles other than the OB, but it could hold across the entire lineup. They are the least discounted model when sold new, and they hold their value. The article was specifically saying to buy new since those models depreciated the least regardless of mileage. I feel the Subaru line enjoys that pricing "advantage" which is something as owners we can glow in but as buyers we need to understand when the price seems high. In the OP instance the dealership is part of the pricing issue but a private party isn't likely to be that much lower anyway, and the mileage on the odo is also more likely to be solidly in the six digit area. True, geography will dictate some of the pricing, but it is a reality nonetheless.
 

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well at the average of 15K a year a 2010 OB would be 150K also these cars tend to be used more by families so the mileage is typically higher.
 

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Don't see it was mentioned or not, but haven't read all the posts super in depth. Keep in mind the up through 2014, the 3.6R was NOT a CVT, and used the tried and true 5EAT transmission. Same transmission used in the Tribeca, that tipped the scales several hundred pounds heavier than an Outback. Actually, also basically the same unit used by Nissan & Infiniti in the porker Armada/QX80, which was easily 1000 lbs heavier and used a 400hp V8. - With any amount of care, it shouldn't have problems in an Outback, and if they do, they're serviceable by any trans shop, and not a just replace scenario. (Just make sure it had regular fluid drain/fills of the pan during those miles...I drain/fill mine every 30k).

Guaranteed Trade Program lists my '12 with 68k on the odometer at around $8000, for what its worth. - The'd need to come up a couple grand for me to think about parting with it, as its worth more to me than that, having been impeccably maintained and darn near new looking in and out. With 150k, the $10,000 asking is probably a bit high, however, the dealers need to make something on them.
 

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2013 3.6R Limited
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^^ I agree with the 3.6R / 5EAT ATF drain-and-fill every 30,000 miles referenced above. It is a 20-minute process costing less than $40 for the fresh ATF. It typically replaces just under half of the system's ATF capacity. That has been my plan since purchasing my 2013 3.6R in November 2015 at 25,500 well-cared-for miles. Now at 54,650 miles, it remains a great bang-for-the-buck AWD SUV for our intended purposes. I hope to keep it for many years to come. Staying up-to-date on the basic routine maintenance goes a very long way for longevity of vehicle lifespan purposes.
 

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Just picked up a 2013 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 with GPS/NAV with 158k miles for $6500 plus dealer fees and tax in NJ. Certified Dealer. 60k of those miles were put on a year ago, so I feel thats a huge plus. They did a heck of a job cleaning it.. Full undercarriage and engine compartment looks brand new. Very tight vehicle

After driving Jeeps for 15years, the quality and engineering of the Subaru is amazing.
 
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