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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a newbie to the newer Subaru generation cars and am continuing to learn a lot from this great site.

I'm working on a standard 2007 Outback limited with a seized engine from the previous owner (they ran it out of oil). I knew it was siezed when I bought it.

Question: if my existing 2007 (V25) heads are still good (and I don't know if they are at this point because I haven't taken the heads off and inspected them yet) can I swap them on a good 2005 Outback short block and run the engine using all my 2007 engine electronics and other physical parts like intake, etc..? I understand that the 2005 block is a one year only animal with its own special piston/rods configuration.

Thank you,
-dave
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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It depends on the 05 block.

If its a federal-emissions donor, it would work. Cali-emissions, no.

Also, you'll need to change these to the donor block:

PCV nipple
oil pump
oil pan
pan baffle
pickup
dipstick

Also, to be exact, the 05 federal pistons are different than the 06+ pistons. It does lower the compression slightly and may cause issues long term, but of the several I've done, it runs just fine for the daily driver crowd.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks very much for the pointers!

Now, I need to educate myself on what a California spec engine configuration looks like. Hopefully I have a Federal 2007 block and the donor is a 2005 federal block.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It depends on the 05 block.

If its a federal-emissions donor, it would work. Cali-emissions, no.

Also, you'll need to change these to the donor block:

PCV nipple
oil pump
oil pan
pan baffle
pickup
dipstick

Also, to be exact, the 05 federal pistons are different than the 06+ pistons. It does lower the compression slightly and may cause issues long term, but of the several I've done, it runs just fine for the daily driver crowd.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, so I've discovered that my 2007 Outback is a California emissions sticker Car. That eliminates using the 2005 Outback block, right?

Does that also mean I must find another California emission engine block (2006 to 2010 I think) to run in my 2007 California Emission car? Or can I use any 2006 and later 2.5 engine (wrecked car, JDM, ebay engine, wrecking yard, etc...) and strap all my existing california stuff on it like exhaust, intake, sensors, etc... and run it?
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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@vwzzuk luckily, Subaru harmonized the emissions/engine stuff for 2006+. So your 07 being Cali-spec is of no consequence. The 05 block will still work.

Now, if you have access to an 06+ block, that would be a direct swap (and preferable). However, those are not as easy to find without a complete motor (or cheap).
 

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2005 Legacy Wagon Limited 4EAT
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From what I understand the pistons are different on 06+ due to AVLS, not due to emissions configuration. For 2005 and earlier, the pistons are different between Federal and California, but exactly how they differ I'm not entirely sure. The blocks are otherwise the same. Your best bet is to get an '06+ block unless you want to get involved with changing pistons.
 

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From what I understand the pistons are different on 06+ due to AVLS, not due to emissions configuration. For 2005 and earlier, the pistons are different between Federal and California, but exactly how they differ I'm not entirely sure. The blocks are otherwise the same. Your best bet is to get an '06+ block unless you want to get involved with changing pistons.
You are correct, the 06 cut-off is due to the pistons. Ideally, an 06+ block is what you want to maintain optimal engine output, emissions, originality, etc. However, if an older (05 or previous Federal block) is available/free, it works just fine. No valve clearance issues, head compatibility issues, etc. You cannot, however, go the other way around (06+ block/pistons with -05 heads).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great info!

I just found an 06 block a few hours away but it has a rod knock. It's available as a core pretty cheap with heads I think. The 2005 ran great according to the previous owner. Timing belt broke in a front end accident and it has under 120K on it.

I've not taken an EJ25 block apart before but have done an 1984 Brat engine. I had trouble sealing it up at the case halfs to my liking because it still had oil residue in the block.

Do the EJ25's have a fairly easy bearing replacement approach? Any different than earlier models. I suppose I could get to 3 of the rods through the oil pan but not the 4th one since its behind the case halfs. I believe this engine is below 150K miles. Hummmm.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Correction: Its a 2008 Outback block, a few hours from me, that has the rod knock.
 

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Do the EJ25's have a fairly easy bearing replacement approach? Any different than earlier models. I suppose I could get to 3 of the rods through the oil pan but not the 4th one since its behind the case halfs. I believe this engine is below 150K miles. Hummmm.
Unfortunately, it does require splitting the case halves to replace the rod bearings (correctly). Plus, if the rod bearing(s) are shot, it's 99% likely a new crankshaft is required. Frankly, I haven't dissected an EJ motor with an audible rod knock and found the crank to be usable (with 100+ motors torn apart).

You could get lucky and the rest of the block is in good shape (cylinder walls, bore alignment, etc), but that's also a long shot. If they ran it low enough on oil to cause rod knock, it's likely the piston pins have stuck and gouged the cylinder walls (via the piston skirts).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update:

I found another 2007 2.5 engine from an Outback last weekend. It has 200k on it but needs the head gaskets done. Price was good so I'm going to have the heads done and put new head gaskets on.

Anything I should be aware of or watching for as I replace 2007 head gaskets? I don't quite understand the nuances yet but I'm told that 6 star or turbo head gaskets are the best.
Suggestions?
 

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The turbo gaskets are a good "upgrade" option if sticking with OE. I've never had a problem with Fel-Pros on the non-turbo motors, but that's still a hot debate in the repair community.

The Fel-Pro kit is great if you're fully tearing-down the motor and heads. If you're just doing the head gaskets, it's about the same cost to get OE turbo gaskets plus the required aftermarket gaskets (intake, valve cover, exhaust, etc).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think I'll use the Felpro as you mentioned. Do you also use the Felpro brand head bolts?
 

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I think the consensus is to just reuse the old head bolts.
This guy is correct. Definitely reuse the head bolts. The fel pro head bolts are garbage. The gasket set is great though :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Really.Cool.
So the Subaru head bolts for this year are not torque to yield stretch bolts then?
If that's the case, all i'd do is chase the threads in the block and also with the bolts.

Any lube or anti-seize on the bolt threads?
 

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Really.Cool.
So the Subaru head bolts for this year are not torque to yield stretch bolts then?
If that's the case, all i'd do is chase the threads in the block and also with the bolts.

Any lube or anti-seize on the bolt threads?
They are technically torque-to-yield (versus torque-to-resistance), but that doesn't automatically mandate replacement. They only need replaced if they have been stretched beyond deformation (this is typically an "hour glass" shape in the shank of the bolt).

The threads and underhead should be very lightly lubed with motor oil during assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you.
Looking forward to getting this together.
Just got a Felpro Gasket kit.
 
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