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Valve body replacement

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Dealer informs my 2013 4 cyl Outback with 117k miles needs a new valve body. Quote is a whopping $2400 for the job. Seems rather high. Anyone have had that job done, if so at what cost. Also, any luck in getting Subaru share in the cost? Valve body swaps seem to be the solution to a bunch of problems.

This is all I could get out of them when I asked for details.
Labor $700 (4-5hrs * $140)
Parts (valve body and harness) and fluid $1700 (incl new fluid)
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@Lynzlew723 – We have a 2014 Forester, 106,000 miles, that's currently with the dealer getting the valve body replaced. They quoted us $1,989 with tax. Can you tell me more about what you wrote and said to SoA that got them to pay $1,000 of the cost? We had the extended warranty that just elapsed at 100,000 miles!
I went through this with my transmission replacement. Keep on SOA, write a nice letter, call repeatedly. If you have evidence of meticulous service then that can help.
 

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2014 Crosstrek with 118k miles. Got the fully lit dashboard yesterday and noticed the slipping between gears. I had been getting the AT Oil Temp light on longer trips, but it would go away after I parked for a minute. And dealer said it was likely just an error. Took it to the dealer yesterday and they quoted me $1500 for valve body replacement, but got SOA to cover $1000 of the replacement cost.
How did you get SOA to cover some of the cost?
 

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I’m on Oahu and they’re quoting me $4,000 to replace valve body (just the part $1900) and a wiring harness ($1050 for labor to replace). Along with gaskets, new cvt fluid. I know it’s a lot more expensive to get cars fixed here vs the mainland but come on! Unfortunately I’m at 152,000 miles so the warranty is out of the question.
 

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My AT temp light came on a few times on a long drive on a hot day.

Not flashing. Pull over cool off and ok to drive. Callled local Subie dealer here in Charleston SC.


THEY SAY IT NEEDS A NEW THROTTLE BODY. Tran shifts fine Not sure how they conclude this without looking at it.

but prob true. What causes this and what are the symptoms? I wonder if it’s immanent? They thought we could make it home But hate to break down. Prob jus drop the coin and have em replace it
 

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Well, chalk up another valve assembly victim on out 2014 Outback wagon.

Went up to visit son last Monday, about an hour+ driving highway speeds. Exited the highway and come to stoplight. Pulled away from stoplight and car stuttered and the Christmas tree dashboard appeared. Freaked out and pulled into gas station. Wife panicking. Turned car off and back on and some of the idiot lights went out, but others (EyeSights, flashing brake, traction control, flashing high oil temp) stayed on. Drove slowly to son's apartment and shut it down. Took off the negative cable from the battery hoping it was just a glitch and reconnected. Viola, no more Christmas tree! However, tried starting the car which fired up, but would immediately die. Tried again, same. Tried again but gave it some gas and it stayed running. Well, try limping home. Drive home was uneventful. Maybe it was just a hiccup after all? Maybe I need a new battery?

Later that day tried starting it again and it was back in the start/die mode. That tears it! Took a ride to local Subie dealer to see what they had to say.
Spoke with tech there who said it sounded like I got some bad gas. Had 1/2 tank, so topped it off with 93. Boy did it like the 93! It was obviously happy with the added octane as opposed to the 87 I usually use.

Fast forward a few days and I was leaving local ski slope and wham, on come the Christmas tree dashboard again. So goes the gas theory.
Luckily the Subie dealer was on the way home, so I just stopped there and spoke with the same tech.
He went out and pulled the codes and told me thinks it's going to need a value assembly, but hopefully not. I'd need to bring it in for full diagnostic on it.

Dropped the wagon off today and got the call back. Sure enough, it needs a new assembly. Unfortunately it's a 2014 and has 124k on it. Told me it's gonna be $2k to have it done.
Being down to one car for now, I don't have much choice. He gave me the SOA support number and told me to plead my case with them. I'm currently on hold right now as I write this.
I've been making a list of things to say to them. We'll see if any of it works.

Update:
Well, based on it having 124k, SOA wouldn't cover the whole repair, but kicked in $750, which is better than $0!
 

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That is indeed better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick. Keep us posted on how the repair goes.
 

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'13 OB, 118k miles - same deal. Fully maintained. Regardless: xmas tree lights, diagnostics done, valve body called out. Thus:
Just had the VB replaced at approx $1600k.
Opened a case with Subaru USA a few weeks ago, but 0 replies. Not looking hopeful.

On the other hand, I recall my father in law in 1980 having to replace the transmission on his GM sedan in sub < 100k miles. So Subaru is doing somewhat better than that.
 

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Update: SoA is going to send me a $1000 check to cover the bulk of my valve body replacement. Yeah I'm still out a few hundred but the car has 120k, they could have just said "no" but rather shared most of the financial burden. Respect for doing the right thing.

I've had other brands particularly domestic that have needed repair (just) out of warranty, zero stepping up. Guess how many repeat purchases I've done with them (my last three new vehicles: Subaru)
 

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Well I just bought my 1st Subaru planning a trip to Colorado and hoping it would be as great as everyone says in the snow and through the mountain roads. Its a 2011 Outback 2.5i Limited with 164,000 miles (I've always been a Toyota guy and that's just getting broken in for a yota).

Well I got the Christmas dash the other day... everything lit up including AT Temp it is at the dealer now and they say it needs a valve body (+/- $2,200) and that should fix it but they cant guarantee that it won't need a whole transmission in a few months.
in everyone's experience is it worth the repair? My plan was to leave this car parked at the Denver airport and use it about once a month when I am there for work instead of getting rental cars.
 

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Maybe have a trusted mechanic give you an assessment of the car overall before making the repair.
These rigs are beasts in the snow in particular with good tires. I'd be wary of driving one with a suspect valve body in the snow where you might need all the things working in good order. I noticed as I drove my '13 with the bad valve body driveability got progressively worse over time to the point I felt I really had to fix it.
HTH
 

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You can now get refurbished valve bodies for around $300 and have it installed by a competent independent workshop, or do it yourself (from memory one forum member changed his in a Walmart car park).

The valve body fitted to the 2011 models was upgraded by Subaru and if you choose to get a new valve body it will be the upgraded version.

The other option might be to purchase the valve body from an online Subaru retailer as I believe they are available for less than $800 from multiple sellers.

Seagrass
 

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What Seagrass said. I looked into rebuilt, valvebodymasters on ebay seemed competent and responsive. Had it been my car and not my kid's I would have probably gone that route.
 

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There are 2 common issues (I'm aware of) with the CVT you have. Valve body and torque converter. Since your valve body just went out, I think it's safe to assume neither has been replaced unless you know otherwise. You are at the mileage very common for the valve body to go. I'd say your torque converter is not far behind. The most obvious symptom for me to determine if the torque converter is bad is stopping very hard to a complete stop and if the car dies you have torque converter problems.

Since you haven't mentioned doing the work yourself, I'm assuming you'll be using a dealer/repair shop for any repairs. It's going to add up quickly. $2200 for the valve body and if the torque converter goes I'd just assume it's $3000-$4000 since the engine has to be removed. And your transmission could still fail after both those repairs.

Personally, I wouldn't put in a refurb part or something from ebay especially if you're paying a high labor to have a shop put it in. Do it with the right part ONE time. If you get a $300 refurb valve body and have a shop put it in for say $1500 in labor and that part fails you're going to pay for the labor again to put in the right part.

It's also worth noting that the fluid cost adds up quickly too.

Like someone else mentioned, have a mechanic give you an honest to god look at the car before you start dumping big money into it.

I just did a valve body replacement with dealer part on my own as it was worth it in my situation. But it won't be for everyone.
 

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There are 2 common issues (I'm aware of) with the CVT you have. Valve body and torque converter. Since your valve body just went out, I think it's safe to assume neither has been replaced unless you know otherwise. You are at the mileage very common for the valve body to go. I'd say your torque converter is not far behind. The most obvious symptom for me to determine if the torque converter is bad is stopping very hard to a complete stop and if the car dies you have torque converter problems.

Since you haven't mentioned doing the work yourself, I'm assuming you'll be using a dealer/repair shop for any repairs. It's going to add up quickly. $2200 for the valve body and if the torque converter goes I'd just assume it's $3000-$4000 since the engine has to be removed. And your transmission could still fail after both those repairs.

Personally, I wouldn't put in a refurb part or something from ebay especially if you're paying a high labor to have a shop put it in. Do it with the right part ONE time. If you get a $300 refurb valve body and have a shop put it in for say $1500 in labor and that part fails you're going to pay for the labor again to put in the right part.

It's also worth noting that the fluid cost adds up quickly too.

Like someone else mentioned, have a mechanic give you an honest to god look at the car before you start dumping big money into it.

I just did a valve body replacement with dealer part on my own as it was worth it in my situation. But it won't be for everyone.

I have always done most of the work myself for most of my cars/trucks. I've never messed with a Subaru or breaking open transmissions but it doesn't look too bad based on what I've seen. I may try it myself.
 

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I have always done most of the work myself for most of my cars/trucks. I've never messed with a Subaru or breaking open transmissions but it doesn't look too bad based on what I've seen. I may try it myself.
If you can do the work yourself, that is a game changer. Try calling your local dealer and see how their pricing is - I'm not sure why but my local dealer decided to give me a shop discount on the valve body and 12 qrts of fluid which made a big difference. You could always ask if they are willing.

I hadn't "opened and transmission" either and it really wasn't too bad. I work very slowly and it took me about 6 hours.
 

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Same issue here with 2013 Outback with 126k miles. Got hit with a bad valve body. My dealer quoted $1900 out the door. I'm the original owner. Called SOA and they offered a $500 coupon towards repair.


 

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The parts alone are around $1000 for this repair. If I could have gotten a solid reasonable quote from my dealer I was ready to have them do the work. They were all hemming and hawing about what it may end up costing which I couldn't deal with. If I were you, I would consider having the dealer do the work if you can get this whole project completed for $1400 with the SOA help.

My repair took quite a long time - I think 6-10 hours or something.
 

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The parts alone are around $1000 for this repair. If I could have gotten a solid reasonable quote from my dealer I was ready to have them do the work. They were all hemming and hawing about what it may end up costing which I couldn't deal with. If I were you, I would consider having the dealer do the work if you can get this whole project completed for $1400 with the SOA help.

My repair took quite a long time - I think 6-10 hours or something.
As soon as SOA offered $500, I told my dealer to proceed with the repair. I am okay with the $1400 and I don't have to do it myself.
 
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