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does it vibrate more when you release your foot from the gas at that speed
Usually just vibrates under acceleration and shakes more when stopped. Are yours vibrating all the time?
Check amazon for new CV boots. Should be able to rent a tool to crimp them on, if you have a Haynes manual they talk about rebooting in there
 

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I had to replace mine at about 100K miles on my '09 OB. Aftermarkets caused the vibration problem. OEM parts solve it immediately. Spend a few extra bucks and go OEM.
 

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I recently replaced both of my front CV axles. I purchased my 2000 Outback a couple years ago. It had the vibration when sitting at a stop light/sign when the car was in drive. It also developed a bad vibration when driving down the road. Both CV axles were already after market. I communicated with Raxles, but with no stock Subaru CV axles for cores Raxles was too expensive for me (I'm currently not employed).

I decided to take my chances with remanufactured CV Axles from NAPA. One of the axles has a green tint on the transmission end. I'm guessing this was a rebuilt stock Subaru core. I installed it on the drivers side. The other one did not have the green coloring so I'm guessing it was a rebuilt non-Subaru core. I installed it on the passenger side.

I would have to say it was successful. The vibration when stopped is gone, the vibration when driving is almost gone (I think the remaining vibration is from the junk Walmart Goodyear VIVA 2 tires on the car). The car is quieter when driving now, too.

I would have preferred to have found two rebuilt stock Subaru CV Axles. However, the local NAPA only had one reman CV axle in stock (it was the one that had a green tint on it). They had to order the second one for me and I was not going to make them keep getting more in stock until I found a second one I thought was an original Subaru CV axle.
 

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Rule #1

I have 397,600 miles on my 02 Outback.

Rule #2

Bought the car new in Aug of 01 and my first axle broke at 150,000 miles. She just up and broke. No hints, no clues, no clicks, not a single luxury, just up and broke while driving down the road. Gee wiz that was my only SOL day in the Subie ... an OEM axle. I assume she was one of those fabulous OEM axles that Post #1 talks about.

Rule #3

Have been replacing my axles ever since with Surtrack axles every 100,000 miles. They give me a nice clicking noise for a while before they fail. That's been a better deal then the OEM axles I once had in the car, and I will take that deal 24 x 7 x 365 and 366 on leap years. The Surtrack axle now cost about $50 new and is easy to replace. I just learned to do mine the other day. It took me about 4 hours with the help of this website, but now I know how to change axles. It actually takes a good mech about 15 minutes to replace one and this includes getting the car from the lot and up the lift, swapped and off the lift. A shop will charge 1 hour of labor and 1.5 hours if you supply the axle because shops launder money through parts that they sell you. I'm sure many people will try to deny this, but please ... get serious!

Rule #4
For those that feel the need to argue Rule #3 please realize that I've been alive and driving for a while now :)

Rule #5

Never buy an OEM part for a old Subaru Outback if you do not have to.

Rule #6
Cheers to idiot know it all rules and to post #1!
 

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I agree with rwachtell. I have 177k on a subie 2002 vdc with rust. I bought it for $800 with torn boots on both ends, torn PS boots, etc. It took me 3 hrs to change each cv axle with no prior knowledge. Getting rusty bolts off the Strut and removing axle nut was the biggest time waster. However, with speed perks and 20% off, I managed to score 2 carquest axles from advanced auto for 48 bux each. at a total cost of under 100 bux plus minor incidentals, the car quest axles (new!) do indeed vibrate, shake, rattle and roll at stop. However there is NO logic in dropping $400 for rebuilt subie or MWE axles in an old beater. If your car is in the rust belt, and is 16 years old, then axles is not your biggest problem. Trying to get an old car to perform like a new lexus is foolhardy.
I just checked out these NGK plugs for this model and the price is outrageous. Looks like denso or autolite.
A car is a money pit. the object is to get it moving at the lowest possible cost safely and reliably. If I had all this extra money for better parts I wouldn't be driving a 2002!


just my 2 cents. and yes the vibrations suck, but the extra green in my wallet relieves that pain
 

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A car is a money pit. the object is to get it moving at the lowest possible cost safely and reliably. If I had all this extra money for better parts I wouldn't be driving a 2002!


just my 2 cents. and yes the vibrations suck, but the extra green in my wallet relieves that pain
To each their own, but I disagree whole-heartedly. If the car pisses me off every single time I stop moving, fixing the vibration is a good use of money. Just because I drive an older car (2005), doesn't mean any money put into it that isn't a 100% necessity is a waste.

Used OEM axles can be found for around $35 if you are patient (I got a pair for $75 shipped, no problems over the past 30,000 miles) and I got quotes from a two subaru dealers on OEM rebuilts for $115 (after core). I got 6 NGK Iridium for $50 from advance auto.

My opinion: be patient, buy the right part at the right price. You won't regret it.
 

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it can definitely vary - getting a cheap car, doesn't reflect its replacement cost. That is, I may be driving a car whose value is listed at a low price, but for me to be as confident in some unknown replacement used vehicle could be a LOT higher - knowing the history of the car you have, where its weak and strong points are, etc. has 'value' - value that is lost if you get 'someone Else's used car' as a replacement.

plus - personal preference/tolerance. Some people can tolerate dripping fluid, but rattles drive them crazy, some folks are the opposite.
 

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Let's analyze each statement:
"If the car pisses me off every single time I stop moving, fixing the vibration is a good use of money."
if the car is $800, and rebuilt subie axles are $75 shipped, who puts them in? Firestone wants about $200 per axle. That would be $475 or more than 50% of the car. What do you do with the carquest axles i just bought for $100. eat them? now I am out $100. If i install them myself, then kiss 5 hrs of my time which is not worth "$0" Crazy waste of money. Throwing good money after bad is foolish.

"Just because I drive an older car (2005), doesn't mean any money put into it that isn't a 100% necessity is a waste" a car is transportation. no more. spending good money on something which devalues and breaks constantly is a quick path to the poorhouse. better to save that money for downpayment on better car and go cheap with an old rust bucket.

"I got 6 NGK Iridium for $50 from advance auto." not me. Denso is 3.49=$20.94. that is $30 for dinner for 2 nights.

Everyone has there threshold as to what they would like to spend and do, however, many factors are in play. I played this game before by buying new cars and found out that to me the car was very important, but to prospective purchasers and the dealer, they could not care less if i had denso or NGK plugs. they wont pay one whit cent more for the car.

if you take that much pride in your car then your value system is distorted. dealers swoon all over people that fall in love with these inanimate objects.
No offense here. I love to fix cars, and i enjoy it when things work well, but i would rather have that money to purchase something which has real value. Putting in NGK plugs in a car with 177k miles makes little sense, since the transmission may break tomorrow. endless money pit.

its your money and you are free to spend or waste as see fit.
 

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Let's analyze each statement:
"If the car pisses me off every single time I stop moving, fixing the vibration is a good use of money."
if the car is $800, and rebuilt subie axles are $75 shipped, who puts them in? Firestone wants about $200 per axle. That would be $475 or more than 50% of the car. What do you do with the carquest axles i just bought for $100. eat them? now I am out $100. If i install them myself, then kiss 5 hrs of my time which is not worth "$0" Crazy waste of money. Throwing good money after bad is foolish.

"Just because I drive an older car (2005), doesn't mean any money put into it that isn't a 100% necessity is a waste" a car is transportation. no more. spending good money on something which devalues and breaks constantly is a quick path to the poorhouse. better to save that money for downpayment on better car and go cheap with an old rust bucket.

"I got 6 NGK Iridium for $50 from advance auto." not me. Denso is 3.49=$20.94. that is $30 for dinner for 2 nights.

Everyone has there threshold as to what they would like to spend and do, however, many factors are in play. I played this game before by buying new cars and found out that to me the car was very important, but to prospective purchasers and the dealer, they could not care less if i had denso or NGK plugs. they wont pay one whit cent more for the car.

if you take that much pride in your car then your value system is distorted. dealers swoon all over people that fall in love with these inanimate objects.
No offense here. I love to fix cars, and i enjoy it when things work well, but i would rather have that money to purchase something which has real value. Putting in NGK plugs in a car with 177k miles makes little sense, since the transmission may break tomorrow. endless money pit.

its your money and you are free to spend or waste as see fit.
Yikes, looks like we really touched a nerve with you lol. Have a good one :29:
 

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Sorry, wasn't trying to be argumentative. Just mad at myself for installing cheap carquest axles and now i am stuck. I can't justify the time and expense to do this job over. since the car is old and rusty i am ok (well, a bit ok) with it, but i am really pissed off that these 3rd party aftermarket axles even when new are poor values. you get what you pay for.

if you saw all the rust on this subframe you would understand. I just payed $200 this sunday to weld up the subframe on driver side which holds control arm. it was so rusted that it was unsafe to drive. It was a 2.5 hr to put new pipe and sheet metal. I will post pictures.

If the car was viable i still would have a hard time justifying a reman subie axle. and i would never grab a junkyard axle, since you would have to really examine it, and watch the guy who is yanking it out. Wont feel good about installing a 16 year old axle even if not ripped. not gonna last long near the cat.

next nightmare is to R and R the head liner which looks like it sat in Fidel Castro's mouth for 30 years. YUCCH.. and since its a vdc sedan used headliners are in short supply


apologies!
 

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Another victim of aftermarket axle vibrations. Ridiculous that these things continue to be sold/manufactured when they flat out do not meet performance specs. When my 04 OB is cold, in gear and stopped, it vibrates like I have 2 x 12" subwoofers in the back. Just ridiculous.

Lucky I saved my OEM axles and will be rebuilding them ASAP.
 

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Another victim of aftermarket axle vibrations. Ridiculous that these things continue to be sold/manufactured when they flat out do not meet performance specs. When my 04 OB is cold, in gear and stopped, it vibrates like I have 2 x 12" subwoofers in the back. Just ridiculous.

Lucky I saved my OEM axles and will be rebuilding them ASAP.
I had an A1 Cardone passenger front axle in Kaylee before I knew better. She would vibrate so badly at a stop that change would rattle in the cupholder. Quickly got in the habit of shifting to Neutral at every stop light.
 

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It happens to everyone. My car had an axle replaced before I bought it. On the CarFaux...I knew right away....after I joined up...

Hahaha should have followed my own advice...

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/348610-new-thread-check-1st.html

I didn't know any better.....

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/53587-cv-diagnosis-2006-xt.html

I eventually learned. Ist swapped out the bad one for an OEM reman. then got a set of MWE/FWE remans...on of the last ones apparently.
 

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Expensive Lesson 2002 Outback 2.5 AT

1) Purchased CV Axles from Jerry's Auto Supply for $76 and installed 2) Got Vibration - paid $41 for local shop to diagnose with no result except a suggestion to return to Jerry's as a possible defective axle. (Side Note: They did find an oil leak so that cost me $300 more to replace the pump etc.). Now back to the CV Axle 3) Returned to Jerry's for another axle and in this box was a notice of vibration regarding the Subaru and the "fix". I'm guessing that since the notice wasn't in the first box that it was one that had already been returned by a different sucker.. Ah.. I mean customer. 4) Back to the shop with notice in hand - "Never Heard of That" but will order the Transmission Mount as suggested 5) Shop received wrong mount 6) Shop received correct mount and installed for another $201. 7) Third time's a charm?... nope. Still have vibration. 8) Returned to the shop. Said not responsible because he didn't install the axles. I asked if he suspected the axles were installed incorrectly. He said no and then thought we'd take a drive and check it out. He stated the car felt perfectly normal to him. I told him I've driven the car for a long time and I know that it's not normal. We went back to the shop where he looked under the hood while having me idle in gear (and yes.. I did think about letting off the brake but did not). He acknowledged the vibration and wanted to look at the record of repair for my car to find out if it could be something else. Good Lord... I already know what it is! After his review of the records he agreed that it was indeed the CV Axles. However, it still stands that I'm not due a refund for his work because he didn't install the axles, which if you remember, he could not say were installed incorrectly. He suggested I talk to Jerry's Auto Supply about the part and he would be glad to talk to them if they called him. 9) Went to Jerry's Auto Supply and talked to the clerk, Dillan. He had me tell the other guy, who I assume was a Supervisor, of my situation. He stated that he's "never heard of that". So I informed him of the notice in the box with the axle his store sold to me with the "fix" and the amount I'd already spent to try and follow that instruction. He would contact the General Manager, Carl, in Moses Lake and see what they could do. 10) During all this, my husband had talked to a Subaru dealer in Wenatchee and got a quote for an OEM Remanufactured axle for a cost of $276 (included shipping) with $40 refunded when we return the original one. 11) Then it hit me! If I buy a Subaru axle, I no longer have the original transmission mounts that were replaced at the shop (see #6). I called the shop to inquire about getting the original replaced parts back only to find out they are "gone". 12) I called the Subaru parts department in Wenatchee, briefly told him my situation and that I was trying to find out if the new transmission mounts would still work with the OEM Remanufactured Axles. He couldn't help me because he "has never heard of this". I asked if I sent him the notice that came with the axles and the part number of the Transmission Mount that was installed to "fix" the vibration, could he possibly tell me if the replaced mounts would still work or I would need to purchase the original style mounts (that used to be mine but the shop no longer has). He said he couldn't help me and that I would need to contact the company where I bought the "new" mounts. I remind you... I didn't buy the new mounts! I paid the shop to do that! 13) So... here I sit... tears shed, novel written, bank account dwindling (wait... I have no bank account! It's called plastic). Any ideas?
 

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Update: Jerry's Auto Supply came through for me! They purchased the Re-manufactured Subaru axle and covered the difference between that and what I had paid for the after market one. That came close to covering the cost of the local mechanic who did nothing! Thank you Jerry's!
 

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Tell me, since I have been an inadvertent idiot and violated rule#1, will I do any damage to my car to drive it for a few hundred miles while I secure either new or reman OE Subie axles to replace the crappy, vibrating aftermarket ones?

Thanks!
Valerie
 

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very unlikely to damage the car - just annoying.

however, rebuilt axles are prone to high failure rates - but the rest of the car should be unaffected.
Thank you, Texan! I bet you have a pretty clear idea how furious I was when the car was a'shuddering, and after checking and double and triple checking that all was installed correctly, then looking at alignment and motor mounts, etc....Finally, in desperation, resorting to searching online and coming across a bazillion complaints about aftermarket axles.....Pushed my last redhead button, let me tell you! I'm pissed, not only because it means MORE work now, but the hassle factor is huge, AND it spoiled a trip to a mountain cabin, just me and my dogs on the road with my tunes blasting and open pavement stretching before us. Dammit, Vern.

We shall soldier on, but 1A Auto sure is going to be hearing from me.

Thanks again!
 

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Shudder/vibration at moderate acceleration

Long time lurker, this is my first post.
2008 outback LL bean 3.0r 5eat 117k miles

It has a significant, but intermittent vibration or shudder under light to moderate acceleration around 40-50mph and again at highway speeds (70ish). It is significant enough to be felt throughout the car. It feels like it is more towards the rear end. It goes away as soon as the throttle is released, or enough throttle is added to force a downshift. Other than that the car rides smooth up to 100mph, with no other vibration, noise, or shudder.

It started after I put some cheapo reman axles in the front. Afte about 5k miles I removed them and replaced with significantly more expensive recommended units with original green Subaru joints. from raxles.

Things I have done to try to correct this:
new Raxles front axles (both sides)
checked engine and trans mounts (seems ok, but hard to tell)
Replaced prop shaft with a good used unit from another outback
Replaced rear pads and rotors
added shuttergaurd to the trans (which was also recently flushed with Amsoil ATF along with a filter change)


I took it to the dealership, and they were " unable to replicate" the issue.

What have I forgotten, what else should I try? I've already spend some decent money chasing this problem and It won't subside. Thanks for the help!
 
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