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you might try the FWD fuse to possibly eliminate torque bind as an issue - it often causes a 'bucking' throughout the car. (all 4 tires the same brand/model/size?)
 

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you might try the FWD fuse to possibly eliminate torque bind as an issue - it often causes a 'bucking' throughout the car. (all 4 tires the same brand/model/size?)

I was under the impression that the 4wd fuse doesn't really work on the 08's with the 6 cylinder and 5eat. I want to say that I tried it anyway and it didn't make a difference, but I dont remember. I can try it again.

Yes, both sets of tires and rims are matched and of similar mileage (rotated every 5k) and it doesn't matter whether its the snows on steelies or the normal rims/tires.
 

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There's a lot of assumptions we have to make with only a keyboard but if a dealer can't replicate the issue it'll be hard for us to fully understand what's going on.

Drain the front and rear diff fluids and check for debris or have it analyzed by Blackstone labs or similar.
Start with the rear diff if you feel heavily convinced it's emanating from the rear. (although if you're doing all this front axle work it may suggest you're not 100% certain the source is from the rear?)

1. Why were both original axles replaced in the first place?

Describe it better:

2. how intermittent is this - once a day or once a year?
3. is it intermittent because you rarely see those situations/conditions that cause it - or it's intermittent even under identical conditions?
4. does turning the wheel matter - does it ever happen while turning (same inputs otherwise) or only while driving straight - or does it change if you turn while it's happening (conditions unchanged)?
 

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All of my research has yielded similar results. This probably explains the crazy intermittent vibrations from the 4runner.
When I went to the subie yards, they gave me an axle with hexagonal inner CV's for the BAJA.
Odd considering they were from a similar year and model, and the original vehicle had round inners.

Any heat shielding solutions for the 2000-2003 crowd? or will it end the cat's life prematurely?
 

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My Good ol boy backyard mechanic uses $59.95 rebuil axles from NAPA, had quite a few put in my soobs...never had a problem.....
 

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My Good ol boy backyard mechanic uses $59.95 rebuil axles from NAPA, had quite a few put in my soobs...never had a problem.....
thats great in your case

It raises some questions.. but it doesn’t matter.

This is about high failure rates, not successes or failures. 100 aftermarket axles will incur a relatively high failure rate which most people on this forum would avoid if they understood. And a few will blow to pieces and strand the vehicle, something Subaru axles never do.

It’s so common, this topic is a shoulder shrugging yawn to anyone around a lot of Subaru axles.

So yes take chances on aftermarket if it sounds good, I’ve done it plenty of times on other things, but it’s easy to get nearly guaranteed success, no stranding events for cheaper. The cost to benefit ratio in this case makes it a non-decision for me and anyone else once they see the scope of the isssue.
 

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All of my research has yielded similar results. This probably explains the crazy intermittent vibrations from the 4runner.
When I went to the subie yards, they gave me an axle with hexagonal inner CV's for the BAJA.
Odd considering they were from a similar year and model, and the original vehicle had round inners.

Any heat shielding solutions for the 2000-2003 crowd? or will it end the cat's life prematurely?
All Bajas are the same as 00-04 outback’s.

05 outback’s get the newer axles (and other changes from 00-04 generation outback’s), but 05-06 Baja’s retain the 00-04 outback platform axles and suspension.
 

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All of my research has yielded similar results. This probably explains the crazy intermittent vibrations from the 4runner.
When I went to the subie yards, they gave me an axle with hexagonal inner CV's for the BAJA.
Odd considering they were from a similar year and model, and the original vehicle had round inners.

Any heat shielding solutions for the 2000-2003 crowd? or will it end the cat's life prematurely?
I use Subaru boots only and they seem to last a long enough time for me.

I’ve seen aftermarkets, even touted brands, fail in 2-3 years.
 

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IdoSubaru....I understand your point...I however as my username implies have 5 (well 4 I just finally sold my -98) but my newest is a 2004 and something is always breaking on one or another and i just cant spend that kind of money on one and frankly it's worked well for me ....I havent bought a new car since my '93 Loyale which I paid $10,700 for. So the way I do it works best for me as the way you do it works best for you....
 

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Lost out on the sale of this car yesterday because he thought the car ran "rough at idle." It didn't run rough in park, or neutral, and I never really thought much of it but when I compared this 09 Outback to my wifes 06 Outback the difference was startling. This 09 vibrated like crazy in drive and reverse. You could feel it in the seats, in the steering wheel--you could see it in the mirrors, particularly the rear view mirror.

I thought this dude was smoking crack or just being nitpicky but he was right--it really ran rough. Though, it wasn't rough, it just vibrated like crazy. I searched and searched for an answer to it. I thought it was the trans. Maybe the flex plate was misaligned or the torque converter got damaged somehow when I pulled the engine out but no, it wasn't any of those things.

I found this thread through a google search. "Vibrations in drive stopped at a light."

I thought the axle thing was bullshit. I have two OEM Subaru axles out under my workbench that are a "someday" project to rebuild, so, I pulled them out and compared them to the axles that were in the car. The PO of the car had just had the axles replaced--it was just about the cars only redeeming quality.

It quickly became obvious the two axles weren't the same, at least, externally. This got me thinking. I read this entire thread and this morning when I woke up I decided, **** it--I'll throw a set of axles at the car and see what sticks.

I managed to find 3 remanufactured axles at my local Napa. The guy at the counter flat out told me no, he would not bring out all 3 for me to just "see." I explained to him what I was looking for, and why it was important. I assured him I could identify a rebuilt OEM (NTN) axle from the chinese models visually, without even having to take them out of the box and he reluctantly, retrieved all three.

The first two I opened were NTN axles. No need to open the third, paid for them and I was on my way. I really don't like throwing parts at cars but in this case, I was stumped. Nothing else, beyond something in the trans made sense. I really didn't want it to be the trans, so, axles it was.

The old, chinese axles, were easy to get out. The job hadn't been done that long ago. There was hardly any rust on the bare arm of the axle. The rubber was still in really good shape. Swapped them around, torqued everything down and headed out.

The difference was astonishing. I'm still trying to get my head wrapped around what or why or how axles could have such a dramatic effect but to tell you the truth, it felt like a new car sitting at idle with my foot on the brake. Honestly, 90% of the vibrations were gone.

For what it's worth, I did check my transmission mount thoroughly before I bought the axles. The thing was in great shape. Looked kinda new. No rips or tears. It was completely intact. The vibrations sitting at a stop, in drive, with foot on the brake, was completely the cause of those aftermarket, **** tier axles.

NTN rebuilds only from here out.

Thanks everyone!
 

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While I agree with most of what is posted concerning after market axles.

Had very recent experience I thought I'd share.

03 ll bean 214,000 or so..... bought the car at 198000 and noted a vibration once the car was put in drive and stopped at a stop light.
In neutral there was no vibration. Not to concerned about it knowing what it was,,,feeling it wasn't that bad.


Recently had my steering rack bushings replaced, ....
Much to my surprise I noticed almost all of the vibration went away after I picked the car up
and drove home..

Just thought I'd share a little of what I found even though I agree with most of what is posted concerning this....

Might be something for others to think about or check...

best of luck..
 

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So true! Recently spent a whole day putting on an SKF axle, only to take it off again and replaced the boot on original, thanks to help from members. Why is this such an issue? You would think someone other than Subaru could make an axle that works.
 

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Why is this such an issue? You would think someone other than Subaru could make an axle that works.
The cheap axles don't have to last forever. They just have to live beyond the 90-day parts and labor warranty.

Subaru holds themselves to a higher standard - and/or they want repeat business.
 

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BTW,

Subaru still offers reman axles through Subaru. You can't find them on any websites, you have to ask your dealer. I found this out just today when I went to my go-to parts guys at Mike Shaw Subaru.

Dealers only list new axles on their websites. Dealers only replace axles under warranty with new OEM axles. But, if customers come in with a dealer repair out of warranty, they use OEM remans. We have all been under the impression these no longer exist.

They do, I assure you. I ahve 2 on order. Unfortunately there is currently a very long wait time. One month to 6 weeks currently in the Denver market. But this is good news for the community. I get wholesale pricing from Mike Shaw. That means $178 with a $40 core charge. But this "mystic unicorn" does indeed still exist. No More Cardone new/reman or BS aftermarket sh*tty new, for those who want it. These are genuine OEM reamns. You just have to ask your local dealer parts guys.

Sometimes the inside track pays off, I am sharing the love.

:love:
 

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I now have the dreaded vibration issue with a Cardone axle. I was forced to replace the passenger side axle when I messed up the threads on it when removing my knuckle to replace my control arms. The axle was seized in the hub badly instead of being smart and using my air chisel, I originally started to hit it with my sledge hammer. I didn't think it was that hard but it was enough to slightly mess up the threads. That's what fighting 2 seized control arm bolts will do to you, 6 hours in and I wasn't thinking clearly.

I went with a Cardone reman'd axle as it was accessible on the weekend and I needed it fast. I now have a vibration at idle and during various speeds on the highway (80km/h and 120km/h). Never thought the idle vibration could be related, but after reading through this forum I have a better understanding.

I plan on getting a lower mileage one from a local recycler for roughly the same amount as my reman'd unit. I'll take the reman'd axle back for a return.
 

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My two Cardone 60-7355 reman axles (with OEM cups etc.) are showing vibration at 65-75 MPH, although they did cure the idle vibration. I've just decided to drop the cash on new axles, at $330 a side from my local dealer.

I'm going through the car to get it sorted for the next 5-6 years, so it's not the biggest part of the costs (headgaskets...). Guess I'll try and return the Cardones, but I bought them over a month ago.
 

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My two Cardone 60-7355 reman axles (with OEM cups etc.) are showing vibration at 65-75 MPH, although they did cure the idle vibration. I've just decided to drop the cash on new axles, at $330 a side from my local dealer.

I'm going through the car to get it sorted for the next 5-6 years, so it's not the biggest part of the costs (headgaskets...). Guess I'll try and return the Cardones, but I bought them over a month ago.

check here; https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/new-lower-pricing-subaru-gear-codes-for-vips.501795/page-10#post-5867991

even if you want to buy locally, they might match the price.
 
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