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2006 Outback 2.5i Auto
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2006 Outback 2.5i Auto
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My two Cardone 60-7355 reman axles (with OEM cups etc.) are showing vibration at 65-75 MPH, although they did cure the idle vibration. I've just decided to drop the cash on new axles, at $330 a side from my local dealer.

I'm going through the car to get it sorted for the next 5-6 years, so it's not the biggest part of the costs (headgaskets...). Guess I'll try and return the Cardones, but I bought them over a month ago.
An update: I had new tires fitted today, and the vibration has gone, still with the Cardone axles fitted.

Either I lost a wheel weight sometime around when I did the work, a wheel wasn't on quite straight, or maybe the slide pins on my brakes started to stick after I compressed them to remove the brakes to replace the steering knuckles with unremovable pinch bolts.

The car doesn't get driven on highways much (nearest is 15 minutes away), so it might have fixed itself any time in the last couple of weeks.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Auto
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An update: I had new tires fitted today, and the vibration has gone, still with the Cardone axles fitted.

Either I lost a wheel weight sometime around when I did the work, a wheel wasn't on quite straight, or maybe the slide pins on my brakes started to stick after I compressed them to remove the brakes to replace the steering knuckles with unremovable pinch bolts.

The car doesn't get driven on highways much (nearest is 15 minutes away), so it might have fixed itself any time in the last couple of weeks.
Ok, so I drove it again tonight on a much smoother piece of highway, and I was overly optimistic yesterday.

The vibration is reduced by the new tires and balancing, but it's still there between 65 and 80mph. It's ok for short highway trips, but I wouldn't want to drive an hour or so at >65.

Guess that means I don't have to pay the restocking fee for the OEM axles...
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Auto
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Finally getting round to swapping out the Cardone 60-7355 reman OEM axles for new OEM. Done the passenger side so far.

This side was leaking from the diff seal. Measuring the Cardone axle I just took off that side, the sealing surface there is under size by about 0.2 mm diameter, and has clearly been turned down. Which would explain why it won't seal perfectly (seal replaced 600 miles ago looks fine).
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Auto
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Measuring against two new OEM axles, the leaking reman axle is 0.23mm under size, at 34.74 mm, while the non-leaking reman axle is 0.10 mm under size at 34.87mm. both new axles are 34.97 mm (on my calipers). the leaking axle also has significantly more axial play than the non-leaking reman, and both have more play than the new OEM axles.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Auto
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The vibration I was getting after changing to both the reman and new OEM axles turned out to be a sticking right front brake.

I think the new OEM axle has stopped the diff leak.
 

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2005 Legacy Wagon Limited 4EAT
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Well I'll be damned. My '05 had all of the typical symptoms listed above. Crazy vibration while in drive, even worse with the a/c on, vibration when accelerating on the highway, and for good measure the right side outer cv joint was clicking in tight turns. Inspection revealed that PO did indeed have aftermarket axles installed, a long time ago from the looks of it.

I bought a pair of used OEM axles from a local junkyard for $25 each. The inner boots were starting to show some cracking/dry rotting so I decided reboot them with Beck Arnley boots, re-using the original clamps. The job was pretty easy, just very messy.

I just got done with my first test drive after installing them and I'm amazed at the difference. I feel nothing now. Drive, reverse, a/c on or off, doesn't matter. It idles like a Lexus. Never in a million years would I have thought axles could cause a vibration like this.
 

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'19 Premium, 2.5
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205 Posts
I looked at many posts but not all & it appears that all participants are Gen 3 or earlier. Does anyone know, as a Gen 5 owner (2019), is the after market axle vibration problem no longer an issue for newer models?
 

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2011 Outback Limited 2.5i (sold 257,000km)/2018 Crosstrek limited 2022 Forester Limited
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I had the dealer replace front left axle with a re manufactured one...one sfter the other went bad until the fifth time...maybe it was the fourth...I lost track...they told me they put an OEM. back in. Hopefully that will be it. It’s been jut over a year and no probs with it yet. When it started to go it vibrated like the bugger.

l’ve never had to replace axles on any other car we’ve owned
 

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2010 OB 2.5 limited (past: 2009 OB Special Edition; unknown late 70's-early 80's wagon
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102 Posts
See this info fragmented all over the place and thought it would be good to summarize in one place.

Rule #1: Do not use an aftermarket axle unless it is from MWE or rebuilt from RAXLES.

Rule #2: See rule #1.

A1 Cardone axles or "other" from Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly etc simply allow too much lateral play. They suck. You will have problems.

Rule #3: Given that rules 1 and 2 are Gospel, if you're rich, buy OE Subaru axles from 1stsubaruparts.com. If you're not rich, buy junkyard axles and re-boot them if the boots look dry/old. If you own a 2000-2004 where the passenger inner boot sits above the catalytic converter, you WILL be replacing that boot every few years. It's not hard, just get used to it. A buddy, 12 pack of beer, floor jack, breaker bar and a few sockets are all you need. Small price to pay for an AWD car that will run forever if you take care of it.

I can personally testify to the fact that ALL vibration problems went away after chucking the aftermarket axles in the trash and putting on OE axles that came from a junker with 100K miles on it. There is no substitute for the OE axles. Period. End of discussion.

Rule #4: Obey rules 1, 2 and 3.
I'm sorry that I had to laugh when I read about vibration issues at idle. Have you videos yours? I don't usually open the hood while my car is running, but after jumping dead battery I got a good look at the roughly idling engine
 

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I recently replaced the drivers side CV axle on my 2000 Outback. I used a NEW, not reman, CARDONE axle purchased from RockAuto. Much to my surprise I have had no vibration issues. I only have a few hundred miles on it so far, but all seems good.
I must have gotten lucky as well. I replaced both with the cardone axles and drove 41,000 miles. (Then spun a bearing after a head gasket job...... that's a different story.) No issues with the axles.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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See this info fragmented all over the place and thought it would be good to summarize in one place.

Rule #1: Do not use an aftermarket axle unless it is from MWE or rebuilt from RAXLES.

Rule #2: See rule #1.

A1 Cardone axles or "other" from Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly etc simply allow too much lateral play. They suck. You will have problems.

Rule #3: Given that rules 1 and 2 are Gospel, if you're rich, buy OE Subaru axles from 1stsubaruparts.com. If you're not rich, buy junkyard axles and re-boot them if the boots look dry/old. If you own a 2000-2004 where the passenger inner boot sits above the catalytic converter, you WILL be replacing that boot every few years. It's not hard, just get used to it. A buddy, 12 pack of beer, floor jack, breaker bar and a few sockets are all you need. Small price to pay for an AWD car that will run forever if you take care of it.

I can personally testify to the fact that ALL vibration problems went away after chucking the aftermarket axles in the trash and putting on OE axles that came from a junker with 100K miles on it. There is no substitute for the OE axles. Period. End of discussion.

Rule #4: Obey rules 1, 2 and 3.
See this info fragmented all over the place and thought it would be good to summarize in one place.

Rule #1: Do not use an aftermarket axle unless it is from MWE or rebuilt from RAXLES.

Rule #2: See rule #1.

A1 Cardone axles or "other" from Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly etc simply allow too much lateral play. They suck. You will have problems.

Rule #3: Given that rules 1 and 2 are Gospel, if you're rich, buy OE Subaru axles from 1stsubaruparts.com. If you're not rich, buy junkyard axles and re-boot them if the boots look dry/old. If you own a 2000-2004 where the passenger inner boot sits above the catalytic converter, you WILL be replacing that boot every few years. It's not hard, just get used to it. A buddy, 12 pack of beer, floor jack, breaker bar and a few sockets are all you need. Small price to pay for an AWD car that will run forever if you take care of it.

I can personally testify to the fact that ALL vibration problems went away after chucking the aftermarket axles in the trash and putting on OE axles that came from a junker with 100K miles on it. There is no substitute for the OE axles. Period. End of discussion.

Rule #4: Obey rules 1, 2 and 3.
yep, totally agree. I had to learn this the hard. Don’t assume Subaru service mechanics know about this either. My Subaru dealer was skeptical about this. But after replacing the after market cv axle with an OE one, no more vibes. We tried everything else - spark plugs, clean throttle body, inspect engine mounts, but the real problem was an after market cv axle from auto zone. I guy at auto zone said the after markets are probably stamped out instead of razor cut out….hence, not exact or the same. Whatever it is, I wish I known this. Thank god for the people on this forum for letting me know, otherwise, I still be frustrated with a vibe.
 

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'19 Premium, 2.5
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205 Posts
yep, totally agree. I had to learn this the hard. Don’t assume Subaru service mechanics know about this either. My Subaru dealer was skeptical about this. But after replacing the after market cv axle with an OE one, no more vibes. We tried everything else ....Thank god for the people on this forum for letting me know, otherwise, I still be frustrated with a vibe.
Yeah; and this is a multi-generational truth as well. It goes back at least as far as Gen2.

This is definitely one ya probably have to bite the bullet and pay for OE. I was able to save a little once by buying OE remanufactured instead of brand new.
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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many folks buy used OE from car-part.com and may reboot before installation. A hassle, but still cheap compared to dealer new.
 
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