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Actually, an inner joint that is too tight is the cause of the vibration at idle. In addition to having rotational movement, the inner joint also has lateral movement along the plane of the axle, much like a telescope that can be compressed or elongated. A tight inner joint won't easily compress or elongate which causes vibration to be transmitted back through the trans to the floorpan and also through the axle itself out to the spindle, then on to the steering. A nice loose joint, like on the factory subaru axle, easily moves instead of binding causing NO vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Heads Up Board Members -

Poster 2003wrx64 has no idea what he/she is talking about. I am tired of wanne-be engineers who don't know jack effing **** about their subject matter.

Machining tolerances determine the lateral/axial play in the shaft. Loose tolerances are what causes the vibration. End of discussion. It is more than frustrating to read a post from someone who knows nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Is it too much to ask to ban/delete someone so stupid on their first post? As a PE I can not allow such wrongful information to contaminate an otherwise excellent forum.
 

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How many Subaru axles have you replaced or rebuilt? As a certified Subaru tech, I have replaced so many aftermarket axles put on by other shops that I can't even begin to count them. I have also re-booted hundreds of Subaru axles. As a rule, the inner joint on after-market axles are so stiff that they are hard to move by hand, either axially or rotationally. New and re-manufactured Subaru axles are the opposite. Very loose and even floppy, much like a worn out ball joint. As for the wanna-be engineer quote, I don't want to be an engineer, most of them are very close-minded and have trouble thinking outside of the box AND THEY ALWAYS THINK THEY ARE RIGHT, even when actual experience proves them wrong.

Think about this: If loose tolerances cause vibration, then why do the old, worn-out, split or torn boot axles not vibrate??? All of my Subarus, from my 1984 DL to my 2003 Wrx, have more than 200,000 miles with their original axles, with lots of play, and they don't vibrate.
 

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Meh.
I has wagons.
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Is it too much to ask to ban/delete someone so stupid on their first post? As a PE I can not allow such wrongful information to contaminate an otherwise excellent forum.
Yes it is. Consider yourself lucking for not getting warned for this.
 

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Meh.
I has wagons.
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Also, to the both of you:

Be civil or be silent. This is the only time I will say this.
 

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Also, to the both of you:

Be civil or be silent. This is the only time I will say this.
with all due respect, I have been completely civil in my posts.

I am not sure why this guy was so angry about my post, but I suspect it is because he thinks he is an expert and he may well be. We both agree that many aftermarket axles cause vibration at idle. We only disagree on the cause. The advice from both of us is the same, use high quality axles or better yet, use the axles that came on your Subaru and reboot them periodically. I have almost 265000 miles on my wrx and I have rebooted the axles many times and they are still going strong. You wouldn't believe how loose the inner joints are:)
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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I was just quoted $400 for new from dealer, $180 from Super Rupair (local subaru expect rebuilt axels from CVJ in Denver), $195 from MWE. Those are all without core price. Anyone getting similar pricing? Know of better pricing?

I need on Passenger because of torn boot on the inside. It's not clicking. I wonder if I should just toss a slit boot on it and replace once it starts clicking?

Thanks!
 

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'18 Tacoma, '16 Legacy, '04 Outback, ''73 MGB Roadster
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Are both sides the same up front? My right inner is leaking, and I figure I'll replace with a quality (MWE?), and have the original re-booted, to be ready for next time. It just started leaking, as I found the large goober of grease on the garage floor today, and realized my fears when I got under it. It hasn't rained yet, so I'd assume the CV joint itself is OK.

If I'm removing the axle, how hard is it to re-boot myself? I've split-booted our old Taurus a few times, but it just doesn't last. If I pull the axle, what are my options, as it's still good?...Thanks
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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Are both sides the same up front? My right inner is leaking, and I figure I'll replace with a quality (MWE?), and have the original re-booted, to be ready for next time. It just started leaking, as I found the large goober of grease on the garage floor today, and realized my fears when I got under it. It hasn't rained yet, so I'd assume the CV joint itself is OK.

If I'm removing the axle, how hard is it to re-boot myself? I've split-booted our old Taurus a few times, but it just doesn't last. If I pull the axle, what are my options, as it's still good?...Thanks
After researching, there are three/four options

1) New or reman after market. A lot of reported issues with vibration. Cost $70/axle for parts
2)Reman Subaru OEM. A few reported issues with vibration, but seems seldom. Cost $150-200/axle for parts
3)Reboot. This seems to be the most reliable with regard to vibration. I haven't seen anyone report failure of axle after reboot. I am going to go this route. Cost $20 for a boot kit off amazon, $18 from NAPA or others. It doesn't seem significantly more difficult than replacing the existing axle with a reman. Maybe an hour of cleaning up and repacking and clamping the boot clamps? No one seems to reboot the outer joint, but if you have to, you need to get replace both boots since it seems you get at this one by taking off the inner, so price goes to $40. Still, you have an axle that won't vibrate.
4) As you suggest, replace with remaned OEM, and reboot for spare. I believe left and right are the same. And you can always swap again if you find you have a vibration issue.

Comments?
 

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'18 Tacoma, '16 Legacy, '04 Outback, ''73 MGB Roadster
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I just ordered a new one from my local NAPA store, for eighty-some bucks. Thanks for the tip about a boot kit from Amazon. Should get the axle on Wednesday, tear into it Friday, and hope to report back soon. Fingers crossed...
 

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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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with all due respect, I have been completely civil in my posts.

I am not sure why this guy was so angry about my post, but I suspect it is because he thinks he is an expert and he may well be. We both agree that many aftermarket axles cause vibration at idle. We only disagree on the cause. The advice from both of us is the same, use high quality axles or better yet, use the axles that came on your Subaru and reboot them periodically. I have almost 265000 miles on my wrx and I have rebooted the axles many times and they are still going strong. You wouldn't believe how loose the inner joints are:)
If it matters to you, your explanation makes perfect sense to me. A tight joint would be more likely to work its way out of center with built up internal pressure.
A worn, loose joint might be more liable to outright failure, but it would be likely continue to rotate in the proper plane until just before it failed.
 

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FYI - I just ordered two front axles from MWE. Marshal asked if the contact information on the forum could be updated. The new contact information is...

FW Enterprises LLC.
Formerly: “MWE Axles”.
6401 N. Broadway. Unit D
Denver, Colorado. 80221
Phone: 1-303-522-8070
Email: [email protected]
 

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One question, are both front axles the same length? I installed ball joints in my 98 Outback and had a very hard time getting everything back together after installing the ball joint on the drivers side. It seemed like the axle was 3/4 to an inch too long (the axles are not original).
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
One question, are both front axles the same length? I installed ball joints in my 98 Outback and had a very hard time getting everything back together after installing the ball joint on the drivers side. It seemed like the axle was 3/4 to an inch too long (the axles are not original).
1. Make sure you have the axle stubs pushed all the way back into the transaxle. Push hard. Roll pins must go through.

2. Make sure you use the axle nut to pull the outboard end of the axle through the wheel hub. Lube the spline liberally.

3. Maybe don't use aftermarket axles as I previously advised. Go get junkyard axles for $30 each and reboot them before putting crap on the car that will result in shakes. There's a difference in mass between the aftmkt axles and stock, and the engine mounts aren't tuned for that difference.
 

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wow

I am learning a lot, already, first day here!
I just sent an email to the store where I gave them my original (OEM) 2005 OBW axle against the core charge on a rebuilt one that came in a blue and white long box. From what I have read, I would rather have my old axle back than the $15 credit. I am sure I can clean up that inner CV joint like new and I know I could re-boot it.

Now I hope I don't have a vibration when I get this thing back onto the road!:gasp:
 

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got some remanufactured Subaru axles & cv boots from a great guy in colorado--runs like new!!! this was after putting in some after market ones at a Midas which vibrated like crazy. I did this at about 128k and super happy. Marshall was great to deal with and was very fair and honest.

FW Enterprises LLC.
Formerly: “MWE Axles”.
6401 N. Broadway. Unit D
Denver, Colorado. 80221
Phone: 1-303-522-8070
Email: [email protected]
 

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I just learned the hard way.......got the axle replaced by some small shop and was told it was an OEM subaru axle
but then I was experiencing vibrations when in drive at stops and heard strange sounds when taking off from a stop.....took it back to the small shop they then said the axle was fine and tried to tell me a engine mount was bad...I new better.....then took the car to the dealer and they recognized the true problem ....and I then learned the small shop lied to me and
put on some aftermaket axle which caused the vibrations.....Subaru replaced the axle with OEM and it cured all the vibration and strange noises.....like new again.......
 

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Here we are, three and a half months and three thousand miles in, and I gotta say the NAPA axle is doing fine. When I purchased the axle, the fellow at the store (a JEEP and Subie nut as well) suggested I separate the ball joint to swing the knuckle out of the way. Naturally the pickle fork destroyed the dust boot on the joint, and now that needs replacement, too. But the problem was that the body of the ball joint was hopelessly rusted into its place in the knuckle, and the pinch bolt in the knuckle broke, needed to be drilled out, and the body of the ball joint needed to be destroyed to be removed! Removing the knuckle wasn't bad, but I didn't realize the bolts holding the knuckle to the strut were also the camber adjustment, which I lost because I didn't mark them http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif The re-assembly went well, and after an alignment to fix the camber it runs and feels great

Maybe a few months is too soon to make a judgement call, but so far, so good...
 
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