[Cudatat]

Recent development.

While driving on highway/highway speeds there seems to be a vibration felt in the gas pedal (while accelerating and at constant speed). The vibration is best felt when I apply gentle pressure on the accelerator.

I was told that one of the adjuster nuts on the tie rods is seized (I read the thread on this topic, seems beyond a DIY job for me), and I think it was one of the rear tie rods.

Lower front control arm is supposedly "Leaking", per the dealer.

What could be causing this? I changed the tranny fluid at 120K (current mileage= 147K). If it is some internal engine bearing it sounds like it would be expensive.
Thanks,

 

[CNY_Dave]

Feel other parts of the car and see if you feel the vibration.

It could be the engine/trans or a suspension bearing/bushing.

Do you feel it with the car not moving?

Does it change with engine speed, or vehicle speed?

 

[Cudatat]

Thanks for the reply.
It really doesn't seem to do it when the car is not in motion.
Don't feel it in any other part of the car.
I was told the passenger side, lower front control arm is Leaking, but the dealer said I could Watch it.
The other day I was doing some highway driving and decided to put the car in neutral (at 60-65 mph) to see if the vibration in the pedal got better or went away.....it pretty much went away (was just a hint of a vibration while in neutral).
Car still has the original front axles. I think the only suspension parts that have been changed are struts all the way around and sway bar links.

 

[rasterman]

I can't think of any component in the lower control arm which has any sort of fluid to leak. Can you get a clarification?

A 2001 will have a mechanical throttle cable, so engine vibrations could be transmitted to the pedal. Rough running or a loose engine mount could enable the engine to move more relative to the body, and thus transfer vibration to the gas pedal.

Have you tried to detect vibrations while the car is stationary and in neutral, while revving the engine?

 

[Cudatat]

I will check it out and let you know.

Funny thing is, it hasn't been running the same since the dealership did the 120K tune up (put in new plugs, and soon after the the CEL came on, 2 of the plugs weren't fully seated/threaded and worked them self loose. IF it were a spark plug issue (thus causing the engine to run rough) wouldn't the CEL come on?....currently it is not).
IF motor mounts are loose, okay to just tighten/torque down or do they need to be replaced (ouch)?
Thanks

 

[CNY_Dave]

The rear mounts for the front control arms are silicone-fluid filled.

Both mine are leaking.

They are replaceable.

 

[rasterman]

The rear mounts for the front control arms are silicone-fluid filled.

Both mine are leaking.

They are replaceable.

My bad then- never had a 2nd generation outback, so I've only seen the plain rubber ones & aftermarket poly types as used on the 3rd gen cars.

 

[DavidPeab]

IF it were a spark plug issue (thus causing the engine to run rough) wouldn't the CEL come on?

I'd think so too. You would most likely get a P0301-4 code indicating an engine misfire in the cylinder denoted by the last number in the code.

 

[lockmedic]

Recent development.

While driving on highway/highway speeds there seems to be a vibration felt in the gas pedal (while accelerating and at constant speed). The vibration is best felt when I apply gentle pressure on the accelerator.

I was told that one of the adjuster nuts on the tie rods is seized (I read the thread on this topic, seems beyond a DIY job for me), and I think it was one of the rear tie rods.

Lower front control arm is supposedly "Leaking", per the dealer.

What could be causing this? I changed the tranny fluid at 120K (current mileage= 147K). If it is some internal engine bearing it sounds like it would be expensive.
Thanks,

Unless the tech you spoke to uses some strange lingo the tie rods on Subies are only found on the front. Seized adjuster nut isn't the end of the world, if a nut splitter or grinder won't take it off, replace both the inner and outer tie rod and problem solved. You're probably due for steering rack boots anyway.

And as others have mentioned the bushings in the LCA's where they mount to the body can leak. I've yet to own one with that issue but have seen pics of it on here.

My suspicion on the gas pedal is it's something else you're interpreting as the gas pedal vibrating (inner joint perhaps?).

 

[cardoc]

CV Axle. You have to determine which one is doing it. Try to feel out which side of the car its coming from. Vibration in torque and no vibration off the accelerator is a shaft out of balance due to wear. You could put the car on jack stands, unless you know someone with a lift and start the car, let it idle in drive and watch for wobble in the shaft.

The rear transverse arms are utilized in adjusting the toe. The bolts for adjusting the toe that go through the arm tend to seize to the bushing sleeve. I had to cut mine out and replaced the arms along with new bolts, nuts and eccentric washers.

The lower arm "leaking", ball joint boot cracked. If the ball joint isn't loose, replace the boot only.

 

[Cudatat]

10/15/12
Update: Been noticing a funny smell in the engine bay. Trouble light showed me that there is a GOOD size crack in the front passenger side axle boot and it is throwing grease all over.
Dealer can put in a "Re-man" half axle/boot assembly for 350.00 plus another hundred to r/r the differential fluids.
Trust a Re-man? How about some of the aftermarket axles? (saw some on different websites price range of 60-140 bucks (A1 Cordone, FEQ, EMPI axles)...are these any good? If I go with an aftermarket, what are the spec's (i.e. 44 teeth, 27 spines?) for a 01 VDC.
If the axle is bad and low on fluid would that explain the vibration in the gas pedal?
I will have the mechanic look at the motor mounts, tie rods as well, anything else?
Thanks,

Stu

 

[rasterman]

The aftermarket axles tend to produce unsatisfactory results- extra noises or vibrations when the car is stopped in traffic.

There are threads on this board about them- stick with the Subaru axles if at all possible.

 

[cardoc]

The aftermarket axles tend to produce unsatisfactory results- extra noises or vibrations when the car is stopped in traffic.

There are threads on this board about them- stick with the Subaru axles if at all possible.

A1 Cardone makes a good reman axle. $350 is a bit overpriced for a single axle and labor to replace it. I usually do reman axles for $200 a side average and give a lifetime warranty on the axle. A new axle, from an aftermarket supplier would run closer to the $350 mark with labor.

I haven't had any troubles with reman axles in a Subaru. My VDC has a reman on the right front right now and has been there for 20k miles without issue.

 

[StingyPaperWaffles]

For what it's worth, I've put A1 Cardone axles in the front of mine. I have somewhere around 110K miles on one of them, and I've had no issues. I do get the vibration when stopped and in gear. Sometimes it's hardly noticeable. If it is annoying, I just slip it into neutral, and it's gone. IMO, that's a minor inconvenience in exchange for saving some cash. I know most everyone here will tell you to stick with Subie parts, and if you can afford it, that's great. But, I can't, so I'm willing to put up with a few more imperfections.