Walk-through: Diesel Fuel Filter Service for Subaru EE20
Intended Audience: Diesel Subaru owners (Outback, Forester, Impreza and Legacy)
Technical Level: Easy
Duration: Allow a few hours
Effort: Easy
!!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!!
Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. The instructions contained herein are only a guide and should be done with caution, if you are in doubt see your local mechanic. If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it. Please also note that the photos I have taken are of my right hand drive 2011 Subaru Outback, whilst (at time of writing) Subaru use the same EE20 powerplant in all their diesel cars there may be some slight differences between left hand drive / right hand drive, models and year makes.
Background:
I "jumped the gun" a little when my diesel filter service was due and ran out and purchased the filter without looking at how it is changed. A few weeks of on and off searching I found no guides or walk-throughs on how to change this filter until recently when I stumbled upon a Factory Service Manual (FSM) to suit a diesel 2008 Legacy Outback. I then decided to take photos as I was putting my car back together and creating this guide so hopefully it will be easier for people to find when searching Google in the future.
Tools required:
Diesel filter
Sedimentor gasket (my filter came with one, it's just a rubber O ring)
Phillips head screwdriver size #2
12mm socket with an approx. 200mm extension and ratchet
Multi grip pliers with a min jaw opening of 50mm
A bucket to collect diesel
Tools that aren't required but may make the job easier
Small slotted screwdriver
3 arm filter removal tool
250mm breaker bar or a vice
Long nose pliers
Method
1.
The FSM suggests first disconnecting the battery. I did not do this, but if you want to follow the FSM to the letter, it's there. My actual first step is locate your fuel filter assembly which should be on the passenger side of your car (left hand side for right hand drive; right hand side for left hand drive) near the firewall
2.
Unscrew the hose clamps and remove the fuel lines at the fuel filter assembly. Long nose pliers might help pull the hoses off, but take care not to damage the hoses! Diesel may dribble out of the hoses as you pull them off, so it might be a good idea to have your bucket ready.
3.
Disconnect the two harness connectors on the filter assembly.
4.
Remove the three mounting nuts from the filter assembly. Pull the filter assembly out taking care not to tilt it too much as this will cause diesel to spill
5.
Place filter assembly above your bucket and drain fuel from the drain plug. I have taken this photo with the assembly upside down to show you where it is and what it looks like.
6.
Remove the harness connector from the stay. Undo the two bolts that hold the filter assembly inside the protector
7.
The FSM at this point says to remove the fuel heater, although after doing it I cannot see why. It's just two small screws and you might need a small slotted screwdriver to pry it off
8.
Remove the sedimentor level switch with your multi grip pliers. This is a good point to swap the gasket over.
9.
Remove filter. This is the point I had the most trouble at. I needed to reuse some of the bolts so I could put a breaker bar onto one side whilst I used a three arm filter removal tool to spin the filter off. This would have been much easier if I had a larger multi grip pliers and bench vice but I got it off eventually.
10.
Put it all back together using the reverse order. FSM recommends the filter be tightened to 17.2Nm, the sedimentor level switch to 4.9Nm and the fuel heater screws to 1.96Nm. I did it by feel, my torque wrench only goes down to 30Nm...
11.
Once everything is back together, prime the pump until it feels firm. Then try to start the car. If the car starts and stalls or doesn't start after 15 seconds of the starter motor working, prime the pump until it feels firm again. My car started after 12 seconds. This procedure appears in my Owner's Manual
12.
Job's done!
If you believe I have made any mistakes or anything should be added to this guide or even just want something clarified, please reply to this thread (I have set email notifications) or send me a PM.
PS
It seems that I lack the post count to post pictures and URLs, I'll have to come back and add these later :/
EDIT
NO! I didn't put this into the DIY section...
Intended Audience: Diesel Subaru owners (Outback, Forester, Impreza and Legacy)
Technical Level: Easy
Duration: Allow a few hours
Effort: Easy
!!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!!
Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. The instructions contained herein are only a guide and should be done with caution, if you are in doubt see your local mechanic. If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it. Please also note that the photos I have taken are of my right hand drive 2011 Subaru Outback, whilst (at time of writing) Subaru use the same EE20 powerplant in all their diesel cars there may be some slight differences between left hand drive / right hand drive, models and year makes.
Background:
I "jumped the gun" a little when my diesel filter service was due and ran out and purchased the filter without looking at how it is changed. A few weeks of on and off searching I found no guides or walk-throughs on how to change this filter until recently when I stumbled upon a Factory Service Manual (FSM) to suit a diesel 2008 Legacy Outback. I then decided to take photos as I was putting my car back together and creating this guide so hopefully it will be easier for people to find when searching Google in the future.
Tools required:
Diesel filter
Sedimentor gasket (my filter came with one, it's just a rubber O ring)
Phillips head screwdriver size #2
12mm socket with an approx. 200mm extension and ratchet
Multi grip pliers with a min jaw opening of 50mm
A bucket to collect diesel
Tools that aren't required but may make the job easier
Small slotted screwdriver
3 arm filter removal tool
250mm breaker bar or a vice
Long nose pliers
Method
1.
The FSM suggests first disconnecting the battery. I did not do this, but if you want to follow the FSM to the letter, it's there. My actual first step is locate your fuel filter assembly which should be on the passenger side of your car (left hand side for right hand drive; right hand side for left hand drive) near the firewall
2.
Unscrew the hose clamps and remove the fuel lines at the fuel filter assembly. Long nose pliers might help pull the hoses off, but take care not to damage the hoses! Diesel may dribble out of the hoses as you pull them off, so it might be a good idea to have your bucket ready.
3.
Disconnect the two harness connectors on the filter assembly.
4.
Remove the three mounting nuts from the filter assembly. Pull the filter assembly out taking care not to tilt it too much as this will cause diesel to spill
5.
Place filter assembly above your bucket and drain fuel from the drain plug. I have taken this photo with the assembly upside down to show you where it is and what it looks like.
6.
Remove the harness connector from the stay. Undo the two bolts that hold the filter assembly inside the protector
7.
The FSM at this point says to remove the fuel heater, although after doing it I cannot see why. It's just two small screws and you might need a small slotted screwdriver to pry it off
8.
Remove the sedimentor level switch with your multi grip pliers. This is a good point to swap the gasket over.
9.
Remove filter. This is the point I had the most trouble at. I needed to reuse some of the bolts so I could put a breaker bar onto one side whilst I used a three arm filter removal tool to spin the filter off. This would have been much easier if I had a larger multi grip pliers and bench vice but I got it off eventually.
10.
Put it all back together using the reverse order. FSM recommends the filter be tightened to 17.2Nm, the sedimentor level switch to 4.9Nm and the fuel heater screws to 1.96Nm. I did it by feel, my torque wrench only goes down to 30Nm...
11.
Once everything is back together, prime the pump until it feels firm. Then try to start the car. If the car starts and stalls or doesn't start after 15 seconds of the starter motor working, prime the pump until it feels firm again. My car started after 12 seconds. This procedure appears in my Owner's Manual
12.
Job's done!
If you believe I have made any mistakes or anything should be added to this guide or even just want something clarified, please reply to this thread (I have set email notifications) or send me a PM.
PS
It seems that I lack the post count to post pictures and URLs, I'll have to come back and add these later :/
EDIT
NO! I didn't put this into the DIY section...
