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MY11 Outback 2.0D
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Walk-through: Diesel Fuel Filter Service for Subaru EE20

Intended Audience: Diesel Subaru owners (Outback, Forester, Impreza and Legacy)

Technical Level: Easy

Duration: Allow a few hours

Effort: Easy

!!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!!
Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. The instructions contained herein are only a guide and should be done with caution, if you are in doubt see your local mechanic. If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it. Please also note that the photos I have taken are of my right hand drive 2011 Subaru Outback, whilst (at time of writing) Subaru use the same EE20 powerplant in all their diesel cars there may be some slight differences between left hand drive / right hand drive, models and year makes.

Background:
I "jumped the gun" a little when my diesel filter service was due and ran out and purchased the filter without looking at how it is changed. A few weeks of on and off searching I found no guides or walk-throughs on how to change this filter until recently when I stumbled upon a Factory Service Manual (FSM) to suit a diesel 2008 Legacy Outback. I then decided to take photos as I was putting my car back together and creating this guide so hopefully it will be easier for people to find when searching Google in the future.

Tools required:
Diesel filter
Sedimentor gasket (my filter came with one, it's just a rubber O ring)
Phillips head screwdriver size #2
12mm socket with an approx. 200mm extension and ratchet
Multi grip pliers with a min jaw opening of 50mm
A bucket to collect diesel

Tools that aren't required but may make the job easier
Small slotted screwdriver
3 arm filter removal tool
250mm breaker bar or a vice
Long nose pliers

Method

1.
The FSM suggests first disconnecting the battery. I did not do this, but if you want to follow the FSM to the letter, it's there. My actual first step is locate your fuel filter assembly which should be on the passenger side of your car (left hand side for right hand drive; right hand side for left hand drive) near the firewall

2.
Unscrew the hose clamps and remove the fuel lines at the fuel filter assembly. Long nose pliers might help pull the hoses off, but take care not to damage the hoses! Diesel may dribble out of the hoses as you pull them off, so it might be a good idea to have your bucket ready.

3.
Disconnect the two harness connectors on the filter assembly.

4.
Remove the three mounting nuts from the filter assembly. Pull the filter assembly out taking care not to tilt it too much as this will cause diesel to spill

5.
Place filter assembly above your bucket and drain fuel from the drain plug. I have taken this photo with the assembly upside down to show you where it is and what it looks like.

6.
Remove the harness connector from the stay. Undo the two bolts that hold the filter assembly inside the protector

7.
The FSM at this point says to remove the fuel heater, although after doing it I cannot see why. It's just two small screws and you might need a small slotted screwdriver to pry it off

8.
Remove the sedimentor level switch with your multi grip pliers. This is a good point to swap the gasket over.

9.
Remove filter. This is the point I had the most trouble at. I needed to reuse some of the bolts so I could put a breaker bar onto one side whilst I used a three arm filter removal tool to spin the filter off. This would have been much easier if I had a larger multi grip pliers and bench vice but I got it off eventually.

10.
Put it all back together using the reverse order. FSM recommends the filter be tightened to 17.2Nm, the sedimentor level switch to 4.9Nm and the fuel heater screws to 1.96Nm. I did it by feel, my torque wrench only goes down to 30Nm...

11.
Once everything is back together, prime the pump until it feels firm. Then try to start the car. If the car starts and stalls or doesn't start after 15 seconds of the starter motor working, prime the pump until it feels firm again. My car started after 12 seconds. This procedure appears in my Owner's Manual

12.
Job's done!

If you believe I have made any mistakes or anything should be added to this guide or even just want something clarified, please reply to this thread (I have set email notifications) or send me a PM.

PS

It seems that I lack the post count to post pictures and URLs, I'll have to come back and add these later :/

EDIT

NO! I didn't put this into the DIY section...
 

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MY10, BRD Outback 2.0D, EE20
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1 Posts
Hi Cassbo, thanks for the detailed overview of EE20 fuel filter replacement. You are right there isn't much info regarding this engine that is easily found for service maintenance. Ryco Z699 is the replacement filter I will be using.

Since your post unfortunately doesn't include photos, can I ask does the whole mounting bracket assembly have to be removed for filter access or is that the simplest method to enable easier working off vehicle? So I can't lift the filter assembly up and off vehicle by undoing the two bolts in Step 6, which is near the wiring loom connector?

Can you clarify step 9 further please? I have a 3 leg filter removal tool which is easiest when changing oil filter but I suspect it's a matter of bracing the assembly first to get leverage?

I have recently changed engine oil for Service E and noticed that fuel filter was also due again.

your advice, thanks.
 

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MY11 Outback 2.0D
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Cassbo, thanks for the detailed overview of EE20 fuel filter replacement. You are right there isn't much info regarding this engine that is easily found for service maintenance. Ryco Z699 is the replacement filter I will be using.

Since your post unfortunately doesn't include photos, can I ask does the whole mounting bracket assembly have to be removed for filter access or is that the simplest method to enable easier working off vehicle? So I can't lift the filter assembly up and off vehicle by undoing the two bolts in Step 6, which is near the wiring loom connector?

Can you clarify step 9 further please? I have a 3 leg filter removal tool which is easiest when changing oil filter but I suspect it's a matter of bracing the assembly first to get leverage?

I have recently changed engine oil for Service E and noticed that fuel filter was also due again.

your advice, thanks.
Hey vk3wh

Looking through my photos the filter might be able to be lifted out without the bracket by just undoing those two bolts, the service manual says to remove the entire assembly including the bracket so that's how I did it.

To clarify step 9, I used some nuts and bolts as a point to gain extra leverage to undo the filter from the block. A bench vice would have been better, but I don't have one! If your 3 leg filter removal tool has long legs it might do the job easily, otherwise you might need to go out and get a strap kind of one (sorry for being vague, I'd post a photo or a link to a website if I could)

If this hasn't helped, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send through the photos that might explain the procedure a little better :)
 

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Outback 2012 2.0 Turbo Diesel (EE20ZKUDLE) CVT
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I also have a 2012 (M13) Outback 2.0L turbo Diesel + CVT, and I can not seem to get a factory service manual for my the vehicle. You mentioned you had FSM, where did you buy it from?
I am finding the US outback models, don't do a diesel, and all the ebay versions are for the US models so of no use to me, the Subaru US website for $35 USD does not recognize my VIN. Subaru Australia wanted $2200 for the Australina service manual. I have many FSM for outback in the US from 2011-2015 but none do the diesel. I only have a Forrester FSM which uses the EE20 engine.
 

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MY11 Outback 2.0D
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I also have a 2012 (M13) Outback 2.0L turbo Diesel + CVT, and I can not seem to get a factory service manual for my the vehicle. You mentioned you had FSM, where did you buy it from?
I am finding the US outback models, don't do a diesel, and all the ebay versions are for the US models so of no use to me, the Subaru US website for $35 USD does not recognize my VIN. Subaru Australia wanted $2200 for the Australina service manual. I have many FSM for outback in the US from 2011-2015 but none do the diesel. I only have a Forrester FSM which uses the EE20 engine.
I found an online FSM to suit a 2008 Legacy / Outback to do the fuel filter. I'm not sure about the country of origin though, it's in English and models are left hand drive... maybe European? For the rest of the car, like you I use the FSM for a US Outback.

Even though 2008 would be the BP series (2003 to 2009), the procedure is exactly the same for the BR series (2009 to 2014). With that in mind I would assume the Forester FSM you already have will probably cover most of the engine and gearbox stuff

I'd post the link to my FSM, but I'm still down on my post count until I can do it.
 

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I could use some photos for this weekend lol.. I'll probably be doing the fuel filter change. Any chance you can share those particular pages of the FSM?
 

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MY11 Outback 2.0D
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
EDIT - It seems I have enough posts to post links!

The FSM can be found at http://www.jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Follow this folder path:
Legacy_Outback/
2009/
Legacy 2009/

From here you will see a drop down menu on the top right hand side. Find and click on Engine

From here, find and click on FUEL INJECTION (FUEL SYSTEMS)(H4DOTC DIESEL)

From here, find and click on Fuel Filter Assembly

From here you will see all sections regarding the fuel filter assembly (REMOVAL, INSTALLATION, DISASSEMBLY ect) I suggest reading it all before you start and keeping a copy handy for when you are changing your filter.

Good luck!
 

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MY11 Outback 2.0D
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll create a new post that includes the photos as I cannot edit the original anymore

Method

1.
The FSM suggests first disconnecting the battery. I did not do this, but if you want to follow the FSM to the letter, it's there. My actual first step is locate your fuel filter assembly which should be on the passenger side of your car (left hand side for right hand drive; right hand side for left hand drive) near the firewall



2.
Unscrew the hose clamps and remove the fuel lines at the fuel filter assembly. Long nose pliers might help pull the hoses off, but take care not to damage the hoses! Diesel may dribble out of the hoses as you pull them off, so it might be a good idea to have your bucket ready.



3.
Disconnect the two harness connectors on the filter assembly.





4.
Remove the three mounting nuts from the filter assembly. Pull the filter assembly out taking care not to tilt it too much as this will cause diesel to spill



5.
Place filter assembly above your bucket and drain fuel from the drain plug. I have taken this photo with the assembly upside down to show you where it is and what it looks like.



6.
Remove the harness connector from the stay. Undo the two bolts that hold the filter assembly inside the protector (photo is shown without the fuel heater)



7.
The FSM at this point says to remove the fuel heater, although after doing it I cannot see why. It's just two small screws and you might need a small slotted screwdriver to pry it off, just be careful not to scratch the machined surface





8.
Remove the sedimentor level switch with your multi grip pliers. This is a good point to swap the gasket over.





9.
Remove filter. This is the point I had the most trouble at. I needed to reuse some of the bolts so I could put a breaker bar onto one side whilst I used a three arm filter removal tool to spin the filter off. This would have been much easier if I had a larger multi grip pliers and bench vice but I got it off eventually.





10.
Put it all back together using the reverse order. FSM recommends the filter be tightened to 17.2Nm, the sedimentor level switch to 4.9Nm and the fuel heater screws to 1.96Nm. I did it by feel, my torque wrench only goes down to 30Nm...

11.
Once everything is back together, prime the pump until it feels firm. Then try to start the car. If the car starts and stalls or doesn't start after 15 seconds of the starter motor working, prime the pump until it feels firm again. My car started after 12 seconds. This procedure appears in my Owner's Manual

12.
Job's done!
 

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Thanks for the photos. Seems like a bit of a pain in the ass job. When I got the fuel filter I ordered in the mail, it seemed huge to me. Seems like it probably is the right size after all.
Where is the primer pump? Is it that black knob next to the fuel heater?
 

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MY11 Outback 2.0D
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the photos. Seems like a bit of a pain in the ass job. When I got the fuel filter I ordered in the mail, it seemed huge to me. Seems like it probably is the right size after all.
Where is the primer pump? Is it that black knob next to the fuel heater?
It's not the easiest job in the world but it's far from the hardest!

It is a large filter. According to my receipt, this filter is shared between Subaru diesels, Mazda BT-50s, Ford Rangers and Mitsubishi Pajeros

My finger is on the primer pump in my first photo. You operate it by pushing down on the button repetitively until the button feels firm.

 
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