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I supposed. Ill start off, I've done plenty of car stuff to my first and only other car, so I'm fairly familiar with installing... however, I have forgotten a lot of wheretogo's.. coming from mazda, to subaru..

Immediately, im looking to:
1) (don't laugh), a "gfchip" to save gas, [is it a waste of money? Do they work?] Doing the math, it will pay itself off within the first 9months for me..
2) modifying the intake, was wanting more than just the filter, but pipes? Does anyone have links to such parts? I can only find filters..
3) upgrading my brake rotors at LEAST to slotted & drilled, at least slotted (hopefully without the airy sound) I found a site, writerguy.com/primitive with rotors and pads, upgrades and all... anyone know if they are good, or any recommendations to semi-inexpensive upgrades for brakes?

I haven't had the tools or space to check my spark plugs out, ir anythig else like that.. I have a butterknife and razorblade, for tools.. lol :-S

Later on, I want to upgrade suspension, exhaust and interior things, like heated, FULLY automatic seats, fluffy steering wheel cover and dice.. (lol)

Anyways, my wag has 225,000 miles on her, any one know if I should be looking out for any MAJOR mechanical issues that may be coming up?

Thanks in advanced, ya'll.

PS: I live in a place where it will be snowing heavily, so I may want tires, also.. thanks, all
~
 

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first upgrade for your brakes should be the tires. Tires stop your car, brakes only stop wheels from turning. For sporty street driving and an occasional track run, hard to beat centric premium rotors (or stock rotors) with StopTech Street performance pads. cheap and good.yes, there are better pads - but maybe not for the price.Centric posiQuiet Ceramic have close to the same feel for daily-driving, dust less and are even cheaper. Before pads got to where they are now, they did outgas at high-performance temps. and slotted rotors may have been helpful - but unless you're building a track beast, you won't need slotted/drilled rotors. yes, there are better pads - but maybe not for the price. I THINK the brakes from 02 are bigger so, maybe someone can suggest a way to upgrade from a junkyard later-model outback. check prices/availability at KNS brakes or rockauto. read the technical 'white papers' at the StopTech website - especially about 'bedding-in' process.

what engine do you have? how old are the struts?
 

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first upgrade for your brakes should be the tires. Tires stop your car, brakes only stop wheels from turning. For sporty street driving and an occasional track run, hard to beat centric premium rotors (or stock rotors) with StopTech Street performance pads. cheap and good.yes, there are better pads - but maybe not for the price.Centric posiQuiet Ceramic have close to the same feel for daily-driving, dust less and are even cheaper. Before pads got to where they are now, they did outgas at high-performance temps. and slotted rotors may have been helpful - but unless you're building a track beast, you won't need slotted/drilled rotors. yes, there are better pads - but maybe not for the price. I THINK the brakes from 02 are bigger so, maybe someone can suggest a way to upgrade from a junkyard later-model outback. check prices/availability at KNS brakes or rockauto. read the technical 'white papers' at the StopTech website - especially about 'bedding-in' process.

what engine do you have? how old are the struts?
Not sure if you'll know but I just got a set of Stop-Tech rear brake pads for 2-pot rear calipers I'm planning on intalling on the OBS-t (has 4 pot fronts, ss-lines, vented rear disk conversion (had drums stock), fresh superblue fluid) - how do these pads compare to pads from hawk or any other companies you've tried.
 

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Good pads / fresh fluid should be your starting point with brakes (pass on pads if you plan on upgrading calipers on that axle).

I'd pass on drilled rotors from small companies - they'll usually start to crack after a while.

Easy brake upgrade is to go with 11.4" WRX / H6 / 02+ Outback front rotors with a front caliper bracket swap or a set of 4 pots (all 4 pots fit under OEM 16" Outback wheels - I run JDM 4 pots with raised letters on the OBS-t & 2007 WRX 4-pots on the Legacy L-SE & OEM Outback wheels fit over both).

Another Easy mod is LGT Rear brakes but these require calipers, brackets & new 11.3" vented rotor - I did both of these swaps (4pot front / LGT rear) on my 03 Legacy L-SE wagon.

Assuming your "standard" car has an ej25 start off with a good running engine / transmission / rear diff up to date on service.
Drop in panel filter gave me a decent bang for little $ - it will not transform your car into a dragters but it'll give you a little extra pep - I wrote all about the mods I did (EL Headers, exhaust, intake) in the performance forum on this site.
 

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Not sure if you'll know but I just got a set of Stop-Tech rear brake pads for 2-pot rear calipers I'm planning on intalling on the OBS-t (has 4 pot fronts, ss-lines, vented rear disk conversion (had drums stock), fresh superblue fluid) - how do these pads compare to pads from hawk or any other companies you've tried.

I have read a huge number of reviews at nasioc and thought I would try them so, I really only know they are a little better than stock on my WRX. I had planned on doing more track events than time and money have allowed so, I don't get remotely close to the high mot or other advantages they have in daily driving. they dust a little more than stock too. But, they have no other downside I can detect and are affordable. I rarely hear any noise, their cold bite (at least low-mid 20s, about as cold as it gets here) is the same as at 100 degrees. while the initial bite is good, maybe better than stock (which I think were akebono) they also still modulate well. never noticed a problem with fade at 2 HDPEs and one autoX. good value, but, if you don't drive the car like you stole it or visit the track, some name brand ceramics should be as good and maybe dust less.From reading, I think they may be slightly better choice than Hawk, higher mot and maybe cheaper. Of course, if money is no object, get ferodo ds2500 or w'ever. I think most people wanting 'upgraded' street pads would be happy with them. Spend the savings in money on stickier tires!

Since the rear brakes only get about 30% of the braking force, you may not notice any change in performance.

hawk, ebc, ferodo, etc - plenty of folks make good pads. I have bought pads from KNS brakes and from RockAuto.


My wife has the Centric PosiQuiet Ceramics on her outback, they are a little better than the OEM I think, and MUCH better than some Wagners they replaced. They are also lasting a LONG time given her stop-n-go driving.


the review thread for the ST SF pads is at; Quick Review: StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads - NASIOC
 

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If you aren't running on a race track, slotted and cross drilled rotors are just a good way to eat pads and crack rotors. I used to think they would be cool too, until I saw a few sets that had actually been used on a normally street driven car. What you really want are bigger rotors, and pads large enough to use the extra brake area. You're turning motion into heat, but having a large enough mass to absorb that heat is what you need on a street car - you won't need to create that heat as often or as dramatically as on the track, and thus won't need to shed it quite so radically as you would with the slots and cross drilling. Not sure about the options for the 2nd Gen. OBs, but if there's a bolt on caliper with larger pads to go with a bolt on larger rotor, that's what would serve you best.

Tires do help stop a car, but unless you already hear a lot of howling and shredding at the pavement when you stomp on the stoppers, your braking system isn't exceeding the ability of the tires to stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the rake suggestions, all. I just thought at least slotted would help in wet conditions.

I m not exactly looking for speed in this car... it IS a wagon.. I had an rx7 before, I loved the speed, but I upgraded all my brakes suspension andsway bars.. I love the control aspect, rather than rocketing to the next light..

I only plan on city driving/highway, and a little fun on dirt roads(lateron in life, when I know what needs fixing..

Any info/sites on a cold air intake would be helpful... call me OCD, but I just want to know my car is breathing easily..

Ill check the larger rotors, I nwant to replace them, regardless, they're warped, and shake.. turning them or buy new ones that will last longer? Obvious investment, imho..

Thanks again, all

PS: anyone know about the chip "gf chips"?.
 

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Thanks for the rake suggestions, all. I just thought at least slotted would help in wet conditions.

I m not exactly looking for speed in this car... it IS a wagon.. I had an rx7 before, I loved the speed, but I upgraded all my brakes suspension andsway bars.. I love the control aspect, rather than rocketing to the next light..

I only plan on city driving/highway, and a little fun on dirt roads(lateron in life, when I know what needs fixing..

Any info/sites on a cold air intake would be helpful... call me OCD, but I just want to know my car is breathing easily..

Ill check the larger rotors, I nwant to replace them, regardless, they're warped, and shake.. turning them or buy new ones that will last longer? Obvious investment, imho..

Thanks again, all

PS: anyone know about the chip "gf chips"?.
Subaru NA cars don't offer a lot of opportunity for 'chips' or other bolt-on mods.
Try to lighten the load, start with lighter unsprung rotating mass ie., Get lighter rims. (but quality, otherwise off-road adventures might be too rough on them) take out anything that you don't need. If you literally never have passengers, take the back seat - maybe front pass. seat out. don't regularly carry around a tool box or other gear you don't need. If you would always call for a flatbed tow - or have a buddy that could bring a spare and tools to you - leave the jack and spare at home. every 9-13 pounds of sprung weight saved is about 1hp.(depends on the mass of the car, there are HP calculators on-line that show the relationship).
 

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No chip is going to help you with fuel economy. I'd say that most add ons that suggest fuel economy increases are snake oil. Simply drive it better/smarter and you'll see good numbers.

Get yourself a stiffer sway bar and upgrade your brakes. You can look into CAI but I think the OB breathes pretty well to begin with.
 

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Thanks for the rake suggestions, all. I just thought at least slotted would help in wet conditions.

I m not exactly looking for speed in this car... it IS a wagon.. I had an rx7 before, I loved the speed, but I upgraded all my brakes suspension andsway bars.. I love the control aspect, rather than rocketing to the next light..

I only plan on city driving/highway, and a little fun on dirt roads(lateron in life, when I know what needs fixing..

Any info/sites on a cold air intake would be helpful... call me OCD, but I just want to know my car is breathing easily..

Ill check the larger rotors, I nwant to replace them, regardless, they're warped, and shake.. turning them or buy new ones that will last longer? Obvious investment, imho..

Thanks again, all

PS: anyone know about the chip "gf chips"?.
XRT - Xtreme Racing Tuning Ed reprogrammed my VDC ( http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/47896-sleeper-vdc.html )via e-mail for the modifications. He also does rewrites for stock setups for fuel economy and more power over stock programming. You could check with him and see if your year is doable. We learned a lot working with mine.

Otherwise, keep up the maintenance, run a cooler air intake system and make sure the tire pressure is correct in all seasons.


.
 

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Chips don't work.

The factory intake is a CAI, not much to be gained there. The above mentioned thread makes a bit more "growl" but the vehicle is already getting more air that it needs in stock form.

The rotors from a 2002-04 Outback are slightly larger and could be a simple upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Would I just replace the rotors and get the same brake pads (if I need new pads)?

So, I'm still misunderstanding the intake situation, the stock one is fine/good enough? It isn't worth anything hp/efficiency wise?

What about swaybars, any recomendations? Id probablywant my car lowered a litttle, and great suspension before that, wouldn't I? Or around the same timing? I want ti upgrade those around the summer time...
I'm used to my old adjustable Eibachs, these ones feel so bouncy. Lol (but they're how they should be)-aok

--thanks for the tips on saving me $$$ from the chip idea. And for the reference to have my car tuned
--some day when I have an garage, ill take the tar out <P for weight..
 

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some people have swapped in legacy springs and struts. A heavier rear sway bay could be done now and 'likely' would still bolt in after a suspensions swap. Just getting some new KYB struts would probably be a huge improvement though.

you can search here for just about any system/component of your car and fine good info.

pretty sure a brake swap will mean getting the caliper brackets/larger rotors/calipers/ and, from then on, pads for an 03 w'ever. basically, your brakes will be the same as a later model. there's a 'slight' possibility you will need bigger rims to clear the calipers but, someone with more experience can comment on that.
 

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I have read a huge number of reviews at nasioc and thought I would try them so, I really only know they are a little better than stock on my WRX. I had planned on doing more track events than time and money have allowed so, I don't get remotely close to the high mot or other advantages they have in daily driving. they dust a little more than stock too. But, they have no other downside I can detect and are affordable. I rarely hear any noise, their cold bite (at least low-mid 20s, about as cold as it gets here) is the same as at 100 degrees. while the initial bite is good, maybe better than stock (which I think were akebono) they also still modulate well. never noticed a problem with fade at 2 HDPEs and one autoX. good value, but, if you don't drive the car like you stole it or visit the track, some name brand ceramics should be as good and maybe dust less.From reading, I think they may be slightly better choice than Hawk, higher mot and maybe cheaper. Of course, if money is no object, get ferodo ds2500 or w'ever. I think most people wanting 'upgraded' street pads would be happy with them. Spend the savings in money on stickier tires!

Since the rear brakes only get about 30% of the braking force, you may not notice any change in performance.

hawk, ebc, ferodo, etc - plenty of folks make good pads. I have bought pads from KNS brakes and from RockAuto.


My wife has the Centric PosiQuiet Ceramics on her outback, they are a little better than the OEM I think, and MUCH better than some Wagners they replaced. They are also lasting a LONG time given her stop-n-go driving.


the review thread for the ST SF pads is at; Quick Review: StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads - NASIOC
Good info - Thanks!
 

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some people have swapped in legacy springs and struts. A heavier rear sway bay could be done now and 'likely' would still bolt in after a suspensions swap. Just getting some new KYB struts would probably be a huge improvement though.

you can search here for just about any system/component of your car and fine good info.

pretty sure a brake swap will mean getting the caliper brackets/larger rotors/calipers/ and, from then on, pads for an 03 w'ever. basically, your brakes will be the same as a later model. there's a 'slight' possibility you will need bigger rims to clear the calipers but, someone with more experience can comment on that.
The '02 WRX uses the same front & rear brake pads as my '03 Legacy L-SE so upgrades on either car (front 11.4" WRX rotors on a Legacy (10.7'ish") or 11.3" Rear Legacy rotors on a WRX (10.7'ish")) only require caliper brackets & rotors (assuming your pads & fluid are fresh/good quality).
 

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So, I'm still misunderstanding the intake situation, the stock one is fine/good enough? It isn't worth anything hp/efficiency wise?
Any gains in power and efficiency are fairly negligible. The only significant difference I've seen is on long duration loads - like going over a steep grade. Its certainly not about getting a noticeable increase in launch power or initial acceleration, but it does sound nice and aggressive when you get on it. The stock air feed from the front does as much 'cold air' as you'll need. The switch to a fender based feed of air might have a few benefits depending on the conditions you'll be driving in, but for most people its not a big deal. The mod is mostly a nice cheap, fun one to do. I like my car to 'talk' to me, so that's why I did mine. (Next will be exhaust, to let it 'talk' a little more.)
 

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Get a Borla knock-off header

$140 on Ebay...and worth 10 hp in the mid range with no other changes. 10 hp is a 20% improvement right where you really need it!

This is because the stock y-pipe is a really poor design.
 
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