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Registered
99 OB SUS 2.5 DOHC
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56 Posts
Working on some refinishing for the lift. So far trailing arms are 100% and sub frame has been stripped and primered.





 

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Registered
1999 Silver Outback manual trans
Joined
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93 Posts
Time for a 4th of july headlight upgrade. HID install, just have them in temporary with tape and some screws. For anyone else attempting this, the 3" FXR HID's BARELY fit into the housing. The bigger the projector, the better though.





 

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Premium Member
1999 Legacy SUS Ltd, BGM && 2007 Outback 3.0 LLBean, WGO
Joined
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337 Posts
My own 4th of July was spent figuring out what was going "CLUNK" when I accelerated or came to a stop with moderate force.
I had been limping along with a ripped axle boot for almost four months (zip-tied it in plastic to get through a few busy weeks). When the clunk started I figured the axle was going bad and took it to my local Monro. A rather unhappy me discovered it still CLUNKed after that was replaced. Starting to worry about wheel/hub/brake hardware, or maybe a driveshaft.

Nah.

Took off the wheel and looked around. I learned I have a frozen caliper slide pin, dammit, but otherwise the FL brakes seem fine.
Then I saw I have a bit of exhaust heatshield that's come loose from its tack-welds on both ends. Being a "tube" shape, it could slide forward and back almost an inch, and had no chance of falling off on its own. A wide piece of hose-clamp later, and it (and its neighbor) were both fixed in place again. And even better - no more CLUNK!

So, for all you listeners out there this fine evening, there's another reason to fix up / bash in / clamp down your exhaust rattles!


I also finally fixed my ****ty, shoddy wiring job so both left and right mirror turn signals work!

Next up: finding rebuilt caliper brackets on the cheap and reliable (and ideally, coated/colored, but maybe not red? Aye, i'm picky...)
 

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Registered
1996 Legacy Outback 2.2, 5sp
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33 Posts
Not sure if there was a loose connection or I wasn't paying close enough attention to their operation, but my fog lights now work.

Hard to see in this pic, but the headlights and fog lights are slightly different colors.
I'll eventually refresh/replace the bulbs.
 

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Registered
97 Outback 230000
Joined
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1,133 Posts
Retired the ignition key due to worn metal over the many years of use. Figured out it was the reason my steering lock feature would not disengage. Did not have to ask the forum to do so, since I had learned enough over the years from posts I've read.
 

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Registered
97 Outback
Joined
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118 Posts
Did you ever get your question answered Elysian?

Today I tried to change the oil but failed since I could not get the oil pan plug off, didn't have enough oil and wasn't sure I had the right filter (15208AA12A)? so took the car to get it done at a lube joint. When I got back I programmed the new key fob I ordered and that worked so I don't feel completely inept.
I figured it out after I posted, just haven't been back on these forums. I did hang on to the Outback crossmember, I think I'm going to grab an Outback spacer blocks and bolts, and drop the whole engine/trans/subframe, since I want my Legacy sedan to be an Outback basically. I'm hoping to have it running again in the next week, been too wrapped up in my BMW 3 series V8 swap.
 

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Premium Member
1999 Legacy SUS Ltd, BGM && 2007 Outback 3.0 LLBean, WGO
Joined
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337 Posts
I decided I was due for a tune-up at 210,000 (last at 160,000 with headgaskets). Replaced spark plugs and engine air filter. Quite happy to manage to get the #4 plug in and out without removing the washer fluid tank... since its bolts are rusted to death. Skipped the fuel filter as it was quite dark by the time the plugs were all in.

- Electrical / vinyl tape to hold socket extensions and joints together is going up there with "best car maintenance tricks EVER"! Seriously, I wouldn't have thought of it... thank you FSM!!!

- My old wires were red, and original, I think. New ones blue. I liked the red...

- Wear on old plugs looked pretty good; even coat of tan/white ash. I had started having misfires after sitting at the airport for a few days, but I think that's an old wiring issue come back.

- This is the first time (out of two) that I've checked/adjusted gap on spark plugs. I set these to 0.044" (NGK platinum/iridium). Not quite confident with the torque spec on putting the new ones in, though... I tried to follow the box on 1/2 to 2/3 turn, no anti-seize. But it's hard to judge with the universal ratchet joint.

- I gotta say, it starts RIGHT up (one or two turn-overs, rather than 5-6), and transmission shifts are WAY smoother. I am actually really surprised - not sure if that's from plugs, wires, ECM/TCM reset from taking the battery out... but I like it :)
 

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Registered
97 Outback
Joined
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118 Posts
Picked up some Forester suspension stuff at LKQ last weekend, going to install this weekend. I found I didn't have enough room for the ignition coil I'm using if I wanted to close the hood, so I'm going to be installing the 1" spacers between the subframe and the frame. Should be plenty of room then. Will post pictures of the Legacy after the lift and wheel swap.
 

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Registered
97 Outback
Joined
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118 Posts
Started the suspension lift on the Legacy:





I also put the Outback wheels on the front, they have much bigger tires than the Legacy wheels. The back is still stock, so you can see the massive height difference. Also installed the 1" subframe spacer on the front subframe. Need to swap in the Outback transmission mount.

Right now it just looks like there's no engine/trans in it :grin2:
 

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Registered
97 Outback
Joined
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118 Posts
The Legacy is a lot closer to running today. Just minor things left to button up. Put in the correct driveshaft, put in the correct transmission crossmember, got the radiator sitting properly, hooked up the lines for the heater, hooked up the clutch slave, hooked up the fuel lines, got one of the 2 front CVs installed, and got the rear dogbone mount installed. Maybe some other stuff I'm not remembering, but feeling pretty good about having it up and running soon.
 

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Registered
Joined
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6 Posts
I decided I was due for a tune-up at 210,000 (last at 160,000 with headgaskets). Replaced spark plugs and engine air filter. Quite happy to manage to get the #4 plug in and out without removing the washer fluid tank... since its bolts are rusted to death. Skipped the fuel filter as it was quite dark by the time the plugs were all in.

- Electrical / vinyl tape to hold socket extensions and joints together is going up there with "best car maintenance tricks EVER"! Seriously, I wouldn't have thought of it... thank you FSM!!!

- My old wires were red, and original, I think. New ones blue. I liked the red...

- Wear on old plugs looked pretty good; even coat of tan/white ash. I had started having misfires after sitting at the airport for a few days, but I think that's an old wiring issue come back.

- This is the first time (out of two) that I've checked/adjusted gap on spark plugs. I set these to 0.044" (NGK platinum/iridium). Not quite confident with the torque spec on putting the new ones in, though... I tried to follow the box on 1/2 to 2/3 turn, no anti-seize. But it's hard to judge with the universal ratchet joint.

- I gotta say, it starts RIGHT up (one or two turn-overs, rather than 5-6), and transmission shifts are WAY smoother. I am actually really surprised - not sure if that's from plugs, wires, ECM/TCM reset from taking the battery out... but I like it :)
Good to hear that changing your plugs fixed some of my issues. I'm about to do mine. How did you get the boots off? I know this is a little over a month ago.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Registered
98 OB
Joined
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45 Posts
Replaced driver's steering rack boot @ 241,000kms
Passenger side in a couple weeks....
 

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Registered
1999 Silver Outback manual trans
Joined
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93 Posts
muffler tube rotted through on the way home from college this past friday night. I was going about 80mph when I realized it's much louder in the cabin. Though it was maybe a wheel bearing at first, then i turned down the radio and yep, muffler.

Only the rubber hangers were actually the only thing left holding the muffler box onto the car. I've discovered that the yuppies behind me while I drive stay back really far because the straight pipe is so **** loud.

I'm thinking about fixing what broke off with a straight pipe, or perhaps a megaphone exhaust to make is SUPER LOUD!
 

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Registered
97 Outback
Joined
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118 Posts
Went to the junkyard yesterday and grabbed a bunch of parts for the Legacy. Grabbed a set of Outback control arm bushings. I also grabbed the drop plates from the rear subframe, and the correct transmission crossmember. LKQ was doing 40% off today, so everything rang in at $21. The old control arm bushings were perished, so these will be a bit nicer. Got everything installed, don't know if it will be able to be aligned properly, if not I'll get some adjustable trailing arms. Measured ground clearance this morning, it's over 10" at the oil pan, and over 9" at the transmission crossmember.




I'm closer to having it driveable now. I also connected the shifter linkage to the transmission.
 

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Registered
99 OB SUS 2.5 DOHC
Joined
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56 Posts
Went to the junkyard yesterday and grabbed a bunch of parts for the Legacy. Grabbed a set of Outback control arm bushings. I also grabbed the drop plates from the rear subframe, and the correct transmission crossmember. LKQ was doing 40% off today, so everything rang in at $21. The old control arm bushings were perished, so these will be a bit nicer. Got everything installed, don't know if it will be able to be aligned properly, if not I'll get some adjustable trailing arms. Measured ground clearance this morning, it's over 10" at the oil pan, and over 9" at the transmission crossmember.


I'm closer to having it driveable now. I also connected the shifter linkage to the transmission.
Love it. You can go a bit farther. Here's mine.
 

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2006 H6 3.0R LL Bean wagon and 2000 H4 OBW
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447 Posts
Paid for it.
 

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