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2003 Outback LL Bean with 224,000 on the clock and a 03 Outback Limited with 157K
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128 Posts
Well, I went a different way for refinishing my driver's seat in my 03 Outlook LL Bean.
After several estimates from local upholstery shops at $200-300, I decided that was too much for a 16-year-old with over 200k. While cruising Amazon I found this seat cover https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The shape fits my seat well and it looks very similar to stock after some massaging. I mounted the cover semi-permanently over my worn and ripped seat. The sides of the cover wouldn't lay flat with the stock seat sides so I used contact cement to glue the loose sides down. So far they are holding and after a refinish they look pretty stock.
Through trial and error, I found that ColorBond #158 seat paint was almost a perfect match to the originals. So I coated both front seats with ColorBond #158 and the new cover that was now installed. Looks really good and added additional padding to the driver seat. While I had the seat out I added a pump up lumbar and upper and lower seat vibrators, as I have in all my cars, to help my lousy back. I have not taken pics yet but will soon and post them up.

Jim
 

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2000 Subaru outback 2.5 automatic
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11 Posts
Replaced my starter. Also figured out the clanking from my passenger side wheel: one of the bolts holding the brake caliper on was missing! What I got isn't oem, but it's better than nothing until I can get to the Subaru dealer.

Also finally got around to polishing my headlights.


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2003 OBW 2.5
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49 Posts
Valve adjustment on my 03 H4 @ 236k miles. Did a timing belt and water pump replacement a couple weeks ago and decided to have a look at the lash. Cyl#2 had a bit of slack enough to not hold the blade from slipping out/down... Got both banks to a very snug 008/010 on the intake and exhaust and couldn't be happier with the results.

Great little engines! so easy to work on... quiet as a mouse, can't even tell it's running unless I open the hood since I defeated the DRL's ?
 

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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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1,617 Posts
passenger side front sway bar links broke, so i thought i will see how much it flexes there with just one side connected
top is on flat ground and then both sides flexed. that oem sway bar links just doesnt work anymore.


both rear axles where too long with that lift axle was locking on certain angle and wouldnt let suspension go more down, as i bought one spare rear axle i saw that it was shorter so for long time i was driving with one side longer axle. put both same lenght shorter ones and now rear is lifted more because of that , at about 1cm or so but still its more. now all car is lifted about 1cm more then before. so now rear diff at about 11' ground clearance .
 

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2003 Legacy Outback
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13 Posts
I finally got around to replacing the very worn out leather on the top section of my wheel. To say that it was worn out would have been an understatement. I used marine vinyl because it was cheap and I wanted to be able to make a bunch of mistakes without spending a bunch of money. I don't love how that section feels because of the vinyl, but now that I know how easy a project it is, I'm definitely going to redo it again in actual leather. It only felt natural to follow up by dying the rest of the leather to match the patch. For less than the cost of a latte and a few hours of my time, it's good enough for the time being.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,413 Posts
passenger side front sway bar links broke, so i thought i will see how much it flexes there with just one side connected
top is on flat ground and then both sides flexed. that oem sway bar links just doesnt work anymore.


both rear axles where too long with that lift axle was locking on certain angle and wouldnt let suspension go more down, as i bought one spare rear axle i saw that it was shorter so for long time i was driving with one side longer axle. put both same lenght shorter ones and now rear is lifted more because of that , at about 1cm or so but still its more. now all car is lifted about 1cm more then before. so now rear diff at about 11' ground clearance .
you can definitely do better than OEM for sway bar links - I have Kartboy on my WRX;



whiteline, rallitek, perrin, etc.
 

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2003 Outback LL Bean with 224,000 on the clock and a 03 Outback Limited with 157K
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128 Posts
Checked the front and rear diff fluids.
Expected them to be dark and nasty but they looked like they were filled a week ago ;^).
Also decided to bleed my brakes as the fluid did look nasty. Went well, all fresh and no air bubbles.
Jim
 

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2003 Outback LL Bean with 224,000 on the clock and a 03 Outback Limited with 157K
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128 Posts
Had planned to install new rotors and pads on my rears. But after removing everything but the caliper brackets I found that I could not get those two bolts that secure the caliper brackets to loosen up even a bit. Will soak with PB Blaster and try again once I get a short 14mm socket. All I had was a long 6 point 14mm and that just wouldn't work in that cramped space ;^(
 

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2000 Subaru outback 2.5 automatic
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11 Posts
I replaced a starter in a daycare parking lot. I also remembered why I hate remanufactured parts.

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2001 Outback LL Bean Edition H6 3.0L
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126 Posts
Changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter and cleaned the throttle body. I think it made a difference, it seems to idle and rev a little better now.
 

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I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
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12,305 Posts
Been spending all of the free time working on house, so Mal has been getting a bit ignored.

Mal got an (overdue) oil change: Out: Mobil 1 0W40 with a Wix filter, approximately 10,000 mile run. In: Amazon Basics High Mileage synthetic blend 5w30 and a Fram Ultra filter.

Observed my oil cooler gasket is leaking. Again.

Concluded my "can I run my old premium recommended H6 on regular fuel?" experiment. Determined he will in fact, run mostly fine. He will also pull timing and feel like I have the parking brake on when I floor him. Sooooo, after 4 tanks of 87 we're back to 93 octane.

Fixed one hatch leak. Found another one the next time it rained. Need to pull it all apart and go crazy with some clear silicone it seems.

Need to get around to the rear end links along with the accessory pulleys, both are getting noisy. Need to figure out what thing(s) are going south in my front suspension, hopefully just cheap rotors out of balance causing the nasty vibrations.
 

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2001 Subaru Outback Wagon Base: 2" lift spacers front and back, Megan Racing adjustable rear camber arms, RalliTEK 0.4" Rear Overload Springs, KYB rear struts
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5 Posts
Did the wise thing and lifted my 225k base outback 2"...

This is my first post. I just lifted my 2001 base outback that has 225k miles. It was not as stupid as it sounds, as I had the HG replaced around 163k and the automatic transmission around 190k. It's paid and clear, and I hope to drive it until it blows up. I live at 6800' and regularly get 3' overnight dumps of heavy, Sierra cement snow, so the extra clearance will surely save me from some of the drudgery of digging out my high centered Outback multiple times just trying to get to and from the the main road from my house.



My buddy and Subaru spirit guide convinced me that the only reasonable mod short of replacing the engine was a 2" lift, and some upgraded stiffer suspension adjustable rear camber arms in the rear (to start).



The engine runs better that when I bought it (I'd like to think due to my stellar shady tree mechanic work), and I'm hoping to push this turd until the engine fails and forces me into a swap, something like an H6, or something more exotic if my time, interest, and wallet allow, and likely a manual swap will be in the works as well.
 

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2001 Subaru Outback Wagon Base: 2" lift spacers front and back, Megan Racing adjustable rear camber arms, RalliTEK 0.4" Rear Overload Springs, KYB rear struts
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5 Posts
I lied, second post.
 

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2001 Subaru Outback Wagon Base: 2" lift spacers front and back, Megan Racing adjustable rear camber arms, RalliTEK 0.4" Rear Overload Springs, KYB rear struts
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5 Posts
I'll upload pics, but I think I need to have a few more posts before I'm allowed to post pics. Anyone know if this is correct?
 

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2003 Outback LL Bean with 224,000 on the clock and a 03 Outback Limited with 157K
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128 Posts
Done

Had planned to install new rotors and pads on my rears. But after removing everything but the caliper brackets I found that I could not get those two bolts that secure the caliper brackets to loosen up even a bit. Will soak with PB Blaster and try again once I get a short 14mm socket. All I had was a long 6 point 14mm and that just wouldn't work in that cramped space ;^(
After a good soak with PB and a long handle 1/2" socket bar I was finally able to break free the caliper bracket bolts on muy 03 :grin2:
So I finally got the rear rotors and pads replaced with new!
Jim
 

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I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
Joined
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12,305 Posts
I'll upload pics, but I think I need to have a few more posts before I'm allowed to post pics. Anyone know if this is correct?
That's correct. Either 10 or 15 posts.
 

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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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1,617 Posts
wondered maybe my radiator fan is bad ir something is wrong with it as why my car overheats ,....
ohh well

no wonder its dont turns when i have 90 celcious temp.
 

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2002 Subaru Outback LL Bean H6
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534 Posts
So decided to inspect my 02 sensors just in case that may be the cause of my fuel trim issues and cat efficiency codes. The two upstream ones looked good. The rear, looked a little rough so cleaned it up best I could.

After a little trial and error testing the fronts showed with some heat the voltage got quickly up to ~.9-1.0v and as soon as heat was removed it quickly dropped as it should so pretty sure they’re fine. Rear had different all over the place numbers so may need to invest in a new rear... idk.

Also tried to use my inspection camera to inspect the cats through the 02 sensor ports. Couldn’t get a real good look but the honeycomb looked intact and no obvious signs of clogging but not sure if all I saw was just the ceramics and the metal coatings were gone.

While I was at it, I cleaned the ground connections, or at least the ones I could find. Some were considerably rusted or caked with crud. Time will tell if that helped any.


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2003 Subaru Outback LL Bean H6 3.0
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6 Posts
Basic Maintenance and some suspension stuff

Oil change (NAPA gold filter and Valvoline High Mileage 5w30)
Air filter
Trans fluid change (Valvoline Max Life ATF)
AT Filter change (NAPA filter)
Front and rear diff change
Front driver cv axle replacement - Subaru remanned
Front driver ball joint - Subaru OEM
Front driver outer tie rod - (Proforged - Amazon buy)
Rear tail light assemblies - (Depo - Amazon buy)
Alignment by Firestone

Next on my list is:
brake fluid flush
power steering flush
coolant flush
new tires
 

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2015 2.51 Limited, 2013 Abarth 500 - Nero, 2002 WRX Wagon - WR Blue, 2011 Forester
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188 Posts
I swapped Brucey's Baja engine and transmission in. There was a good deal of foul language on the way out but the way in was overall surprisingly smooth. All up cost, one CV axle that I cut in half with a grinder, two AC hose o-rings, some time beating the transmission selector oring on to the new transmission. So all in all pretty easy. Need to see what is loose that it pops a little on the off power coast, but everything worked first time I turned the key, thats a win.
 
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