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2004 Subaru OBW L.L. Bean H6. 2003 Subaru OBW L.L. Bean Former 2001 Subaru OBW VDC owner.
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987 Posts
Today I got down to the garage and finally finished attaching all the hoses to the radiator, attached hoses to back of motor, plugged up the air box and got that all situated. All I have left to do is get my exhaust welded up, hoping to do that this Friday, install the exhaust, bolt on the two front tires, lower the vehicle to the ground, and start it up.

I dumped 7 quarts of transmission fluid into the trans today, so I'm expecting to be adding around 3 more quarts. My transmission had the oil pan dropped and re-sealed, and I had no fluid in the converter when I installed the used trans, so I'm expecting the transmission to be completely empty.

I'll still have to add coolant, which I'll do once I know the car is going to start. I'll get it started for a few seconds and then I'll add coolant to the system and burp it. Then I'll start seeing where the heck I'm at with this transmission to see if it's a good one or not. I imagine I'll be moving the shifter in and out of gear for a bit until I get it to start moving. I can't wait to post a video of this machine starting up after 2 plus years.
 

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2002 Subaru Outback LL Bean H6
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488 Posts
Got the new RH cat on the car. The support bracket hole didn’t line up and everything was a little tight as a whole, but got it on there. Had to remove both sides to cut the mounting bolts off since they had fused to the flange.

Only now I have an exhaust leak around the rear cat/silencer area. It’s not bad but it’s noticeable and bothering me to no end. So now need to pinpoint its location and figure out how to seal it up.


Frankfort, Kentucky
2002 Subaru Outback
3.0L L.L. Bean Edition.
 

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1 Posts
Replaced the OEM Denco plugs and wires with NGK RC-FX58 Wires and NGK 7090 BKR5EGP G-Power Spark Plugs
Replaced the front and rear struts wKYB Excel-G's.

Next Projects:
replace the clutch/flywheel and throw out bearings with EXEDY KSB04 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit
replace lower control arm/upper control arm bearings on the front and rear with OEM bearings
replace front/rear rotors and disks with OEM parts


2002 Subaru Outback 2.5.L
 

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2004 Subaru OBW L.L. Bean H6. 2003 Subaru OBW L.L. Bean Former 2001 Subaru OBW VDC owner.
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987 Posts
Today I collected the final parts I will need to finish installing my exhaust this Friday. I dropped my 2003 L.L. Bean exhaust off at my local welder today, and it should be ready to be picked up and installed this Friday so I can give the Bean a start for the first time in more than two years since complete removal of the engine and transmission. A completely different JDM engine and transmission were installed and it's soon time to see if I won or lost.

These split flanges are the best aftermarket exhaust flanges for the money you can get. The only thing better than using these flanges would be welding or new parts. You can pick them up at NAPA.
 

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2002 Subaru Outback LL Bean H6
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488 Posts
Going to try new OEM flex pipe gasket and see if that’s the cause of the exhaust leak. The Bosal gasket I used needed some tapping with a rubber mallet to go on so maybe I cracked or otherwise damaged the seal on installation. If that doesn’t work then maybe I have a crack somewhere in the welds, flange or rear catalytic housing somehow.

On a positive note, though might just be wishful thinking, she seems to have more power in acceleration with the new cat.


Frankfort, Kentucky
2002 Subaru Outback
3.0L L.L. Bean Edition.
 

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7 Posts
Today when I lost power steering and limped the subie home I discovered the alternator mounting bolt had broken.
After drilling the broken bolt piece from the alternator and getting a ride to an auto parts store in town, I was given an 8mm x1.5mm bolt as a replacement, I found out that isn't the right bolt, so a call to Subaru and maybe by Thursday I'll have one.
 

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'00 OB SW 2.5 Stick Elite Commando Mud Munching Machine
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3 Posts
My 2000 2.5 Subie took me this summer from KC to living and city drving in St. Louis to Chicago to Milwaukee and Lake Superior shore to rock climbing in Kentucky and back to St. Louis. On the way back to KC yesterday my rebuilt engine locked up. Mechanic gave me the death notice news. So very sad. If anyone want to buy a great car let me know. Mechanic shop is giving me 3 days to remove it. Great deal to a good home otherwise he goes to salvage yard, sniff.
 

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2004 Subaru OBW L.L. Bean H6. 2003 Subaru OBW L.L. Bean Former 2001 Subaru OBW VDC owner.
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987 Posts
I changed 6 year old oil in my H6 JDM engine and took my L.L. Bean for its first real road test since the engine AND transmission transplant. This 2003 L.L. Bean is tight, and the engine and transmission are smoother than silk. I worked up my nerve with some slow driving through the city for a while, then got on the highway to really test the waters. Everything felt like it should, and when the big moment finally came to see how she was going to perform wit the pedal to the floor, she shifted smoother than silk, and with power. I'm very much enjoying the success, but without forgetting how humbling all the hard work has been in the sauna of filth, otherwise know as my garage space.
Fresh gas and oil change = no check engine misfire code. Good to go.
 

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2004 H6 Outback Wagon "35th Anniversary Edition" w/o front bumper
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339 Posts
Finally got new rotors put on @ ~148k miles, and replaced the driver-side front axle because the CV boot was torn.
 

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2001 Outback 5 speed, 2000 Outback Automatic, 2002 Legacy Wagon Automatic. All 2.5L
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268 Posts
Put on a new set of tires. Went with the Michelin Premier A/S. The tires that were on the car when I bought it 30K miles ago were down to the wear bars and were some no name house brand. Had a violent t-storm on the way home from work & the tires made a world of difference.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,134 Posts
Taking a little road trip to the hill country next month.

I rotated tires today. Took the opportunity to inspect around and try to get a little lube in the sway bar bushings - hoping to help an occasional 'groaning sound' when maneuvering/bouncing the car.

some good news, some bad;

tires evenly worn

Centric PQ ceramic brake pads really last! So do OEM rotors.

rear diff mount bushings look good, rear axle boots and everything back there actually looks OK to good. One or 2 suspension arm bushings look 'off-center/worn'. One of those could be source of noise I guess? No movement on rear wheel bearing up-down - side to side rocking test. No oil on top of (replaced, not original) struts.

some wetness on the charcoal box ? - and, now I think, there may have been some wetness under the car from around there - will investigate further if it smells like fuel - haven't noticed that and it seems it would be quite strong in the garage if even a little gas were there???

Both sides of the front have about 2-3mm of 3-9 o'clock movement at the wheels(tires on) - appears to be inner tire rods. No apparent problems felt inside or tire wear but, I will put that on the 'to-do' list for this fall or more likely next spring. One front bearing test moved about 1mm up-down. I may let that wait...can't decide. If I diy that, everything I've read leads me to believe I should tackle it one of 2 ways - on the car with some 'hub tamer' type of device, or take the knuckle to a dealer/shop. thoughts?

Still looks like the oil cooler adapter is weeping, not enough to spot the ground yet....I have read mixed reviews on success at swapping that seal so, I'm gonna wait.

a front outer axle boot is ripped so, need to deal with that. I THINK I have an OEM spare axle, if not, I'll try to find a used one, reboot the inner and swap. No clicking yet so, I'm gonna let it wait too.Since it's the outer, an interesting experiment might be to try knocking the Rzeppa joint off and installing a new aftermarket one on my OEM axle...might do that and hold the axle in reserve for the other side or ??? for the money/hassle, used entire half-axle is still probably better.
 

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2003 Outback LL Bean with 224,000 on the clock and a 03 Outback Limited with 157K
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123 Posts
Rewired the switched source for my driver's seat vibrators to a different switched source at the fuse panel.
My previous tapped source was causing the HVAC display to flash On & Off at random........weird. ;^)
Pulled the HVAC module in order to replace two burned out bulbs. Couldn't find the correct size LED replacements in my bag of misc. LEDs. So I had to just replace the stock bulbs with replacements ;^(
Also removed the "OnStar" hardware from the dash and replaced it with a new single-DIN pocket.
Still have to figure out how to replace my AT dipstick tube......
 
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