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4681 - 4700 of 4751 Posts

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Premium Member
(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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18,337 Posts
Not mine anymore, but my nephew has swapped in some LED driving lights inplace of the fogs, has head light assemblies on order for HIDs and plans to upgrade the headunit for a screen and a back-up camera. It's getting a shot at a 'second life' lol!
 

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2002 Subaru Legacy Outback.. EJ20 swap. Base or L. 4S3BH665527xxxxxx
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459 Posts
Just driving it all over the place.

Moved a chair with it today.

Was kind of "meh" about it at first (I like Volvo wagons) but I'm starting to like this car. It is still slow.
 

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2003 Outback 2.5
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12 Posts
Today I finally got the car to a shop to replace the outer CV joint on the driver's side, as well as the CV boot on the other side I tried to fix up by myself. Well the clunking while turning is gone but now the car makes noise while driving straight. Went straight back to the shop and of course then we couldn't hear anything. On the way home the noise was really bad again. Could they maybe have forgotten axle roll pin or something? Well gotta visit them again tomorrow. Oh and did I ever mention every single job always getting botched somehow lol
 

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Three Gen 2 Outbax in the fleet. 2000 2.5, 2002 2.5, 2004 LL Bean H6
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67 Posts
Crawled back under mine after another loose heat shield rattle....turned out to be some thick wire wrapped around the exhaust pipe as an improvised hanger. Apparently it came loose recently. Side cutters took care of that rattle. Bought a grease gun and a tube of grease after seeing some Zerk fittings underneath the back section. Gotta scrub those with a wire brush first then squirt the grease into them. Going to change a CV boot, too this week. Found a front one with a split. Fun stuff.
 

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2003 Outback 2.5
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12 Posts
Just got the car back from the shop and it turns out they didn't mess up anything after all. The new sound just decided to present itself right after the CV joint job. They figured it's likely the passenger side front brake. The clunking and occasional whining stops when the brakes are applied even so slightly it doesn't slow the car down. Odd, considering that particular brake had its pads and caliper replaced just a few months and less than 3k ago. Maybe the rotor has to be changed too? I'm supposed to go on a trip to Norway in about a month but the car keeps coming up with these surprises.
 

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Premium Member
(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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18,337 Posts
The rubber 'anti-rattle' or w'ever piece Subaru uses on the caliper slide pin is incompatible with several brake lube substances. Maybe it has swollen-up or there is some other compromising issue causing binding in that area?
 

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Three Gen 2 Outbax in the fleet. 2000 2.5, 2002 2.5, 2004 LL Bean H6
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67 Posts
My Subie took a back seat to neighbor's son who requested help painting his wheels. So we did. They were black and he's looking to paint the Lexus IS 300 light blue with white wheels. Took about 5 hours with all the sanding and watching the primer, paint and clear coats dry. But very worth it. He was one happy camper after we bolted them back on.


511622

511623


A down and dirty P-shop of what he has in mind for the paint scheme. Good to see a young man interested in something other than video games and iPhones.
 

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2000 & 2002 Outback Wagon EJ251/Auto + 2004 Outback LL Bean EZ30/Auto + 1996 Legacy Outback Wagon EJ22/5sp + 2008 Outback Wagon EJ253/Auto + 2004 Legacy Sedan 35th Anniv. EJ251/Auto (not OB) + 2005 O
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193 Posts
Installed some Nankang SP-9 all terrain tires on my daughter's 2000 OBW. Her first major purchase for her car since graduating and getting a job. I'm proud of her. Got them balanced and, after installing an inner tie rod end :cautious:, I had the alignment done. I am impressed with these tires so far. They are quiet and comfortable. I get my money's worth out of Firestone's Lifetime Alignments too ;).

This forest green wagon has 244,480 miles on it and has been as dependable as any other car I own since I mechanically restored it from the sad grass killer I towed home when we bought it. It's amazing what a little love can do to make a Subaru a Subaru :).
 
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Registered
2003 Outback 2.5
Joined
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12 Posts
The rubber 'anti-rattle' or w'ever piece Subaru uses on the caliper slide pin is incompatible with several brake lube substances. Maybe it has swollen-up or there is some other compromising issue causing binding in that area?
Thanks for the tip. I'll try to take the brakes apart and figure out what's the issue. Might as well clean and grease them while I'm at it. Also thanks for the tip about the CV joint a few weeks ago, you were absolutely right it was the outer joint on the driver's side. So far people on this forum have had a way better success rate at diagnosing my car than mechanics that I've actually paid for the job.
 

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Premium Member
(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
Joined
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18,337 Posts
Thanks for the tip. I'll try to take the brakes apart and figure out what's the issue. Might as well clean and grease them while I'm at it. Also thanks for the tip about the CV joint a few weeks ago, you were absolutely right it was the outer joint on the driver's side. So far people on this forum have had a way better success rate at diagnosing my car than mechanics that I've actually paid for the job.
1 or 2 times a year I get one right. Often very tricky being remote from a vehicle so, I sometimes just throw out everything - that lets folks look for the most common stuff first at least.
 

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2002 Subaru Outback LL Bean H6
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604 Posts
So my fears that the transmission pump was the source of the noise looks like it may be right. Drove to the store today and hearing the transmission moaning in low gears. Think the noise is the pump struggling to to pump fluid through the coolant lines...

So now have to figure out which transmission I need, find a reputable JDM supplier that has one and find a reputable transmission shop. All before I’m stranded on the side of the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2003 Outback 2.5
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12 Posts
Got the driver's side brake apart. Noticed that it only had the lower pad clip, probably the same for the other side, which could explain the noise I've been hearing. Also I think I might have found the culprit for the sticking brakes... I think I'm going to take a look at the passenger side today and then do some online shopping, and I'll have the car back on the road in no time.
Rusty brake caliper.jpg
 

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Three Gen 2 Outbax in the fleet. 2000 2.5, 2002 2.5, 2004 LL Bean H6
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67 Posts
A little rust like that should buff right out! Shoot some WD40 on it and Good to Go! Lol!

And for the record that is internet humor attempt.

I recently put new pads on mine all around..and became introduced to the wonderful world of Subaru rust.
Grrrrr!

I'm replacing an inner CV boot as my current repair project. 7 CV boots in good shape ...one bad.

The bummer is the rusted tight nuts and bolts. Geez Louise! What a pain. I searched here and found a post....maybe by idosubaru....which said basically to torque on those rusty bolts....shear them....replace them. Looks like a standard procedure going forwards.

But to your brake issues. One item to never overlook or ignore. Those pins. They really have to be cleaned and regreased with the proper lube. If not done you get this result....one pad wears fast while the other stays unworn. Uneven caliper pressure from improper lubrication.

Of course your pistons do looks a bit gnarly and perhaps replacement parts are in order. New calipers or whatever is your best plan.

I've got some bolt shearing to tend to. No penetrating oil has loosened the bottom one , yet. Took quite a bit to free the top eccentric bolt. Then there's the rusted tight ABS clip bolt to address. Pffft!
 
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