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Pulled the rest of the pistons and happily found a spun rod bearing and Not a Main like my buddy had said when he gave me a the block.



Looks like I’ll need a rod, crank and bearings/rings. Might get a set of pistons but these are in decent shape.

Fortunately another friend saved his rotating assembly for me so I can get 3 good rods from him but his cranks is also trashed. I think instead of having mine turned I’ll just order a crank. Maybe a striker? Idk yet.


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Installed STI Group N Transmission Crossmember Cushion Set since I had already fitted the group N transmission mount and shifter bushings.

Tried to fit my primitive rear diff skid plate but couldn’t get the two rear diff rear bushing nuts loose. They were off a month ago when the dealer put new bushings in but I’m lacking the strength. Need a longer pry bar.


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Outbrat XT, Foz, 3.0R Limited
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4,602 Posts
Today I unsuccessfully tried to regain entry to my rear hatch. Not sure what happened, there is nothing jammed in it. No hatch open indicator on the dash. There definitely doesn’t feel like there is any tension on the handle when you try to open it.

****.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback Base. 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i. 2013 Harely-Davidson FLHTK.
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717 Posts
There is a small access cover in the center of the trim panel at the bottom.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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1,335 Posts
Fortunately another friend saved his rotating assembly for me so I can get 3 good rods from him but his cranks is also trashed. I think instead of having mine turned I’ll just order a crank. Maybe a striker? Idk yet.


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Shop/ask, by all means, but you'll likely be ordering a new crankshaft. Around me, it was $300 for a turned crank (if it can be saved) and matching undersized bearings. It had to be shipped out, 2 week wait, and I had to pay return shipping if I wanted a non-usable core back.

A new, heat treated crank is around $320 if you shop around.

Just FYI...
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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1,335 Posts
Put some Powerstop Z16 Evolution coated rotors and pads on the front of the OBXT and did some pre-oil spray prep (removed the fender liners, cleaned the dirt/mud from behind the rockers, etc).
 

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I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
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12,185 Posts
Sprout did her duty today.

Wife was taking the foster cats to the humane society for their check up and meds and got rear ended by an early 2000s Toyota Corolla? (uncertain, I didn't get a good look at it being loaded onto wrecker after I got there in the pouring rain). Don't text and drive kids. Toyota was a total loss, it went under her rear bumper, so air bag deployed, busted radiator, etc.

Wife is fine(little sore, as to be expected), cats (who were all in their carriers in the cargo area when she was hit) were fine but not living their best lives. Sprout was able drive away under her own power, but she's hurting pretty good.
  • Rear bumper busted up.
  • Exhaust trashed, driver's side muffler and fender liner touching rear tire...had to pry driver's muffler OFF the rear tire to drive anywhere.
  • Spare tire well bashed in a good bit, cargo floor is about 2 inches from flat.
  • Driver rear wheel arch molding broken.
  • Small distortion to driver's rear quarter panel.
  • Scuffs and scrapes to front bumper as she was knocked into the car ahead from a dead stop.
She's going to the shop Friday for repair estimates. I'm expecting it'll be pricey but that's why I've kept full coverage on her, hopefully she should be back on the road again in the not too distant future.
 

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05 Outback 2.5i manual
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4 Posts
Not so much just today but within the week. New to the Subaru thing and trying to get prepared for winter, while also working on getting the battle wagon aesthetic going. Picked the car up for fairly cheap knowing it was a bit rough around the edges, but with a really good service history and all of the major stuff (clutch, head gaskets, timing belt) done within the past year. And with a bit of love it's been coming around. Also bought a 2 inch spacer lift but had no luck installing it alone, the rear just fought way too hard for the tools I had at my disposal, so hopefully I can get that in at some point. Along with that I've been hunting for wheels to replace the IMO very boring 6 spokes. But regardless up to this point I've done:

Oil + filter change
Trans oil change
Air filter change
Cabin air filter change
Interior wiped down and vacuumed
Headlights defogged and sealed
Washed and waxed
Cosmoline + grease undercoated
Cigarette lighter fixed
Spark plugs changed
New rear calipers, pads, and rotors
New front pads, rotors
New clutch slave cylinder + master cylinder
Rain-Xed the windows
And installed a roof basket (not pictured)
IMG_20191022_142453.jpg
 

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I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
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12,185 Posts
Glad wife and foster cats came out relatively unscathed.


If you were rear ended, why is this a concern for your insurance, if I may ask?
Cost of repairs vs cost of a 13 year old vehicle if there is underlying unibody damage.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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Cost of repairs vs cost of a 13 year old vehicle if there is underlying unibody damage.
Not to be pessimistic, but I'd start "getting your affairs in order". The way you describe the damage, that whole rear-end is a complex assembly of hydro-formed steel, welds, and seam sealer. Let alone impact damage to collateral systems (exhaust, drivetrain, wiring, etc). The paint and quarter panel repair alone will "total" her, let alone unibody reconstruction.

Pressing "F" for you buddy... (paying my respects).
 

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I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
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12,185 Posts
I'm gonna be fighting for repair. A under 100K mile in 9/10 condition is hard to come by. I estimate she's worth $6-$7K to insurance. I'm expecting $3-4K for repairs, mostly from exhaust components and dealing with the crumpled spare tire well. I drove her today as she's got a good exhaust leak now, so wifey took Mal to work. After pulling the bumper back into placeish, she drives fine. Other than the exhaust leak and some rattles from loose/broken bumper and side molding parts that is.

If I lose and insurance totals her, I'll buy her back and make her a parts car for the next willow green 3rd gen I find. I spent a year finding Sprout for my wife. I'll do it again.
 

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2006 2.5i Limited Manual
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27 Posts
I had to replace my rear passenger side wheel bearing again. I replaced what I believe was the original one 14k miles and less then a year ago, but the new one just started making that droning noise above 25mph. Got the new one under warranty (Timken) and put it in. I'm thinking the premature wear could have been because the toe angle of that wheel was off, but it's also possible I just got a bad part. Even though I put it in less then a year ago the one that was on there looked really rough, guess I have NE winters to thank for that.
 

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I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
Joined
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12,185 Posts
Sprout's repair estimate: $2300 plus any exhaust components plus some paint damage to the rear hatch. I'm gonna push for a new front bumper, but it's only scrapped up, not cracked or anything so it might just get buffed out.

Expecting the final to be in the $4k range.

Also, you can see the road through her spare tire well in a few places now. Hadn't noticed that before.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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15,981 Posts
You know? I don't don't carry full coverage on either vehicle. I didn't think it makes sense. If I had $4K worth of damage on Cherry, 2005 148K miles. (I do actually, Cherry met a Yaris awhile back, rather abruptly) I would expect my insurance company to be totaling the car. Even values out here. I guess the difference is in this case, their insurance can't scrap it. The have to fix it. In my case the other car took off and hasn't been found. 3 months later.

Hopefully the car gets all straightened out.
 

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227 Posts
Ordered a nitrated crank from Hueberger motors for $288 for my ej255 shortblock refresh/rebuild


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Outbrat XT, Foz, 3.0R Limited
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There is a small access cover in the center of the trim panel at the bottom.
I never noticed this tiny panel but it was there. After I broke only one tab off I realized there was a little white lever that can be moved “accidentally” into the wrong position. When in the correct position, the hatch opens as normal. Like it never happened...

Thank you for the heads up. It happened during our snow day so I thought it had just froze at first but then I realized something else was wrong.
 
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