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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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1,631 Posts
so 1.1.2020 . what we did first day of the year... i checked some forest tracks. no mud, no wet so kinda boring to drive but great views, had great relax alone in forest in silence
 

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'06 Outback 3.0R, '91 Justy, '93 Loyale, '15 Crosstrek, '04STi (RIP)
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24 Posts
Not today, but over the holidays I replaced both rear wheel bearings... Unfortunately that didn't solve the hum and vibration over 75km/hr. I guess a new axle is in order too.
Oh well, the one bearing would have needed to be replaced soon anyways.
Is it best to stick with OEM axles on this generation of Outback or is there a recommended aftermarket brand? I haven't had luck with aftermarket on my other ones.
 

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2005 Impreza Outback Sport 2.5L, na, MT5, "Sue Bee"
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43 Posts
Next week, I will be replacing the catalytic converter on my 2005 Impreza Outback Sport, to resolve the P0420. This is a last resort, after going through an extensive, two-months long diagnostic process. I have received an incredible amount of support from this site during that process, and for that I am very grateful. I have learned a lot. Also, I was able to resolve several potential problems in the process, any or all of which may have contributed to the cat failing.
I have owned this car only since September of 2019, and had no history on it, since it was an auction buy with known problems (did not start).
The starting issue turned out to be a non-issue, only requiring pushing the clutch pedal fully down before starting, and charging the battery.

Fixes to this car were done in a methodical manner, doing the most needed one, then waiting to see if the code cleared (or if cleared manually, waiting until it came back again). So far the following work has been done (Not all of these may have been related, directly or indirectly, to the catalytic converter problem, but they were needed):
  1. Replaced the brake rotors, calipers, brackets, pads, hoses, brake fluid on all four wheels (Power Stop ceramic)
  2. Replaced the parking brake drums, shoes and hardware (Centric); hoses (Sunsong)
  3. Sanded down, leveled and painted the surfaces of all the wheel hubs, which were rusted and swollen and rubbing (brakes were dragging too)
  4. Changed the oil pan, drain plug, oil (Castrol high-mileage), pan gasket and filter (Wix)
  5. Replaced and rebalanced all 4 tires (bald!)
  6. Cleaned the MAF sensor
  7. Changed the air filter (Wix) and inserted a cabin air filter (Denso--it did not have one)
  8. Changed spark plugs, plug boots and wires (NGK 5463, 55004)
  9. Added injector cleaner to fuel and ran it
  10. Added acetone-based lacquer thinner to fuel, and ran it
  11. Added cataclean to fuel and ran it
None of these resolved the code permanently. Also, I confirmed:
  • There are no exhaust leaks
  • The O2 sensors leading into and out of the cat are fine, reading as expected in live data streams
  • Head gasket is fine
  • Valve cover gasket is fine
  • EGR is fine
  • There are no vacuum leaks
  • PCV is fine
Also changed wiper blades and headlight dim/bright bulbs (which had nothing to do with the cat)

At my mechanic's suggestion I decided on the Walker catalytic converter and kit (bolts, gaskets, flanges, etc.) He has always had good luck with Walker cats, and has a positive relationship with the company. The parts are on order. I'll give an update later, after the parts are installed and it's had a chance to read all the sensors and we're sure the code isn't coming back. Again, I want to thank the people here who have offered so much support.
 

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Premium Member
2006 Outback Sedan LLBean
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580 Posts
Need some input here. I'm getting work done as I don't have the time, or space (huge home renovation to move my inlaws in with us), but have some holiday money and figured I'd spend it. My dealer (Paul Miller) in NJ has always been reasonable and treated me as fair as all my local mechanics. My normal mechanic said he'd rather not do the plugs and that was on my list as I'm up to 135k miles. My steering is not good a full lock, dealer says front axle/CV's. Droning hub noise they want to do all 4. All brakes are about due (rotors and pads maybe one caliper). Dealer and I talked he found their online coupons and grand total for all is $2400. This really sounds reasonable for all that work. Am I wrong?

Thanks all!
 

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2005 Outback VDC limited 3.0r
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777 Posts
Need some input here. I'm getting work done as I don't have the time, or space (huge home renovation to move my inlaws in with us), but have some holiday money and figured I'd spend it. My dealer (Paul Miller) in NJ has always been reasonable and treated me as fair as all my local mechanics. My normal mechanic said he'd rather not do the plugs and that was on my list as I'm up to 135k miles. My steering is not good a full lock, dealer says front axle/CV's. Droning hub noise they want to do all 4. All brakes are about due (rotors and pads maybe one caliper). Dealer and I talked he found their online coupons and grand total for all is $2400. This really sounds reasonable for all that work. Am I wrong?

Thanks all!
Does that include all oem parts? The plugs are really easy on these cars, tell your mechanic to go from underneath. I wouldnt change all 4 hubs "just because". Should diagnose which one is bad.
 

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Premium Member
2006 Outback Sedan LLBean
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580 Posts
All subaru parts. two hubs are making noise. I said giddy up to all 4 just because they all have over 100k miles on them.
 

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2008 Outback LL Bean 3.0 R
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66 Posts
Semi-fixed the power seat switch on my passenger side. Still doesn’t work 100% reliably but I don’t want to fork out $60-70 for a new one
 

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8 Posts
Need some input here. I'm getting work done as I don't have the time, or space (huge home renovation to move my inlaws in with us), but have some holiday money and figured I'd spend it. My dealer (Paul Miller) in NJ has always been reasonable and treated me as fair as all my local mechanics. My normal mechanic said he'd rather not do the plugs and that was on my list as I'm up to 135k miles. My steering is not good a full lock, dealer says front axle/CV's. Droning hub noise they want to do all 4. All brakes are about due (rotors and pads maybe one caliper). Dealer and I talked he found their online coupons and grand total for all is $2400. This really sounds reasonable for all that work. Am I wrong?

Thanks all!
Dealers suck.....always

I just picked up reman OEM front axles for $300 from Subarupartsforyou.com - new ones were about double front hubs for $160, /pair, rears for $70/pair.

You can get pad/rotor combos for $50 front or rear, or a complete kit with new calipers for approximately $200 a pair

So if you went with all new calipers/pads/rotors, remain axles, and some misc. bolts, figure about $1000 in parts. It’s not a full days work, either. I’d haggle (a lot), or buy the parts and have a non-dealer mechanic do the work.

Matt
 

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2005 Impreza Outback Sport 2.5L, na, MT5, "Sue Bee"
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43 Posts
$2400 is not bad for that amount of work with OEM parts at a dealership. Just a thought - I have had great luck buying parts for my 2005 IOS at Rockauto.com and installing them myself, or when I can’t, having my regular mechanic install them. If your reg shop doesn’t want to (I am curious why), it wouldn’t hurt to check around for another non-dealer shop that does subies. You might be able to save significantly off that $2400 price. Let us know what you find out, and choose to do.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback Base. 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i. 2013 Harely-Davidson FLHTK.
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746 Posts
More like doing with...…. I am in the process of moving, so Kurt has become a truck! Brass and lead weighs a lot, just ask Kurt, and my back!
 

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Premium Member
2006 Outback Sedan LLBean
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580 Posts
$2400 is not bad for that amount of work with OEM parts at a dealership. Just a thought - I have had great luck buying parts for my 2005 IOS at Rockauto.com and installing them myself, or when I can’t, having my regular mechanic install them. If your reg shop doesn’t want to (I am curious why), it wouldn’t hurt to check around for another non-dealer shop that does subies. You might be able to save significantly off that $2400 price. Let us know what you find out, and choose to do.
So I have a few guys I go to. The best price and most recent one is my preferred. I think his main thing was fear of difficult sparkplugs, but never had any experience. I wound up going to my dealer. They are fair and more or less trust worthy. I ditched the spark plugs and saved 400. They only have 40k miles on them. Axles were remanned Subaru. So two front axles, 4 hub bearings, 4 sets of brake pads two new rotors, two turned rotors. $2000.

They told me the front timing cover seems to be in beginning stages of leaking. No drip just stained with oil. Quoted $1400.

The other thing they said needed attention is "rear stabilizer links" which is the sway bar end links I assume. I will attempt that in the summer. Does @traildogck have any parts or recommendations? I remember you made something for the rear suspension, but I don't think it's end links. Bushings right?

Thanks y'all for a the help!

Sent from my V35-ThinQ using Tapatalk
 

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Registered
'06 Outback 3.0R, '91 Justy, '93 Loyale, '15 Crosstrek, '04STi (RIP)
Joined
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24 Posts
Not today, but over the holidays I replaced both rear wheel bearings... Unfortunately that didn't solve the hum and vibration over 75km/hr. I guess a new axle is in order too.
Oh well, the one bearing would have needed to be replaced soon anyways.
Is it best to stick with OEM axles on this generation of Outback or is there a recommended aftermarket brand? I haven't had luck with aftermarket on my other ones.
Looks like it wasn't the half shaft but rather the rear U-joint in the driveshaft.
 

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Registered
2008 Subaru Outback Base. 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i. 2013 Harely-Davidson FLHTK.
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746 Posts
I have been having a clunk in the rear of Kurt, so I crawled under and discovered the upper links inner bushings are shot. The left one is the worst. I have to get them replaced ASAP, so I am weighing my options. Get used links from the U-Pull and replace the bushings for a quick swap, or buy brand new links for a quick swap. New links are about $200.00/each, and the used with new bushing route is about $75.00/each.
Decisions, decisions! I am leaning new for the ease of it all, but I like to save money!
 

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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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1,631 Posts
for rear wiper what means INT mode ? intelligent mode ? how it works? with some rain sensor or something ?
if wiper doesnt work on any mode , it sprays water and when i checked voltage when i turn it on 12v comes to socket just before wiper motor . means wiper is dead ? bought car with that not working. all there looks good and clean. so its just died ? need new one ?
 

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2005 Outback VDC limited 3.0r
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777 Posts
for rear wiper what means INT mode ? intelligent mode ? how it works? with some rain sensor or something ?
if wiper doesnt work on any mode , it sprays water and when i checked voltage when i turn it on 12v comes to socket just before wiper motor . means wiper is dead ? bought car with that not working. all there looks good and clean. so its just died ? need new one ?
It means intermittent, same for front. You can verify if the motor is dead by checking resistance. If its 0.0 ohms or infinite ohms bad motor. Sounds like a bad motor though since you have 12v getting to it.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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125 Posts

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Registered
2005 Outback 2.0XT Limited
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77 Posts
So I have a few guys I go to. The best price and most recent one is my preferred. I think his main thing was fear of difficult sparkplugs, but never had any experience. I wound up going to my dealer. They are fair and more or less trust worthy. I ditched the spark plugs and saved 400. They only have 40k miles on them. Axles were remanned Subaru. So two front axles, 4 hub bearings, 4 sets of brake pads two new rotors, two turned rotors. $2000.

They told me the front timing cover seems to be in beginning stages of leaking. No drip just stained with oil. Quoted $1400.

The other thing they said needed attention is "rear stabilizer links" which is the sway bar end links I assume. I will attempt that in the summer. Does @traildogck have any parts or recommendations? I remember you made something for the rear suspension, but I don't think it's end links. Bushings right?

Thanks y'all for a the help!

Sent from my V35-ThinQ using Tapatalk
@jwrezz I'm not sure where you are located in NJ, my Subaru mechanic is in mountainside, off of RT22. If you would like I can send you his info and you can check to see.

he has done all the work on my Subaru that I haven't done myself, all the maintenance and my most recent engine swap overhaul.
 

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Registered
2008 Subaru Outback Base. 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i. 2013 Harely-Davidson FLHTK.
Joined
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746 Posts
Replaced the LR upper link with new OEM. It wasn't too bad of job other than getting that upper bolt out! It was just a matter of getting that first crack to loosen it and then it came out! It's a tough angle and parts all around it!
 

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Premium Member
2006 Outback Sedan LLBean
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580 Posts
@jwrezz I'm not sure where you are located in NJ, my Subaru mechanic is in mountainside, off of RT22. If you would like I can send you his info and you can check to see.

he has done all the work on my Subaru that I haven't done myself, all the maintenance and my most recent engine swap overhaul.
Thanks. May as well get me their info. I'm up in Parsippany, so it's unlikely I'll drive that far for this. But who knows. I'd appreciate finding a reliable Subaru specialist. Oh and my car is the LLBean sedan w/ H6. Are plugs any more difficult for this engine possibly?

Sent from my V35-ThinQ using Tapatalk
 

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Registered
2005 Outback 2.0XT Limited
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77 Posts
Thanks. May as well get me their info. I'm up in Parsippany, so it's unlikely I'll drive that far for this. But who knows. I'd appreciate finding a reliable Subaru specialist. Oh and my car is the LLBean sedan w/ H6. Are plugs any more difficult for this engine possibly?

Sent from my V35-ThinQ using Tapatalk
The only thing I can think of that could add some challenge is the last row of plugs, it would be deeper into the frame. however, I'm sure with the correct set of tools all should work well.

I will tell you I have tried a variety of plug sockets, extensions, and articulations, there is an all in one magnetic, with extension and articulation that is the perfect size, I got it from Autozone.

lastly, I sent you a direct message with the contact info for my mechanic

let me know how else I may be of assistance
 
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