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06 Sedan 3.0R LL Bea
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14 Posts
I just did an oil and air filter change. While looking things over I noticed my coolant bottle was bone dry! I had the HG done at the dealership about 15,000 miles ago so now I'm waiting on their inspection to see whats up. Oil was dirty but not creamy and the exhaust smells normal. I couldn't see any leaks but that stupid shroud makes looking tough.

153,000 on the clock
 

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2008 Outback 3.0R L.L. Bean
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35 Posts
Just loaded up the car with 20 bags of soil and a 12’ x 26’ roll of astroturf and 2 people. I was nervous since I have the car lowered on coilovers, but it handled it much better than the stock suspension since I have the ability of turning the dampening all the way up. It took 800lbs of soil and the 80lbs of AstroTurf like a champ!




My Humble Build: Christopher Setter's 2008 Subaru Outback on Wheelwell
 

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Outback 2006 3.0Rn 5EAT Wagon.
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477 Posts
I have no idea! I bought the car used. If you tell me how to get it I can get it for you
On your drivers side strut tower in the engine compartment there should be a small aluminium plate riveted on with vehicle details (chassis number, etc) the paint code is usually a 2 or 3 digit code "39R" or something like that.
regards
 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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78 Posts
Front end: Installed new end links (moogs - problem solvers) and put new sway bar bushings and straps from CKE SSP (thanks @traildogck). The noise on slow bumps is gone and a sway bar is firmly attached to a car (before I could move it around as bushings were cracked and worn out). Car seems better planted than before and just seems to handle better through turns on county roads. Next week - going to a mechanic to get control arms replaced. Got all the bolts done but a pinch bolt :(
 

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2008 Outback 3.0R L.L. Bean
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35 Posts
Front end: Installed new end links (moogs - problem solvers) and put new sway bar bushings and straps from CKE SSP (thanks @traildogck). The noise on slow bumps is gone and a sway bar is firmly attached to a car (before I could move it around as bushings were cracked and worn out). Car seems better planted than before and just seems to handle better through turns on county roads. Next week - going to a mechanic to get control arms replaced. Got all the bolts done but a pinch bolt :(
Front end: Installed new end links (moogs - problem solvers) :(
Watch out, my Moog endlinks only lasted 1.5 - 2 years. But, my wheels have a +33 offset (bad scrub radius) and drive everyday in NYC. I even re-greased them after 1 year. I replaced them along with new aluminum LCA from mevotech and all the bushings were toast after 1.5 years as well. Could be just my increased scrub radius that thrashed them so quickly.

I sold some of my body parts to buy new Whiteline endlinks and bushings, hopefully they will last better. I want to get CKE bushings next time (was new to the forum at the time)


My Humble Build: Christopher Setter's 2008 Subaru Outback on Wheelwell
 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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78 Posts
Thanks for heads up. I do have Moog endlinks in the rear and so far so good. I feel like replacing them won’t be a royal pain like OEM ones (just horrible design). Will keep a close eye on fronts. Are you saying bushings from front sway bar were shot or are you saying Movotech LCA were done after a year? I don’t really want to deal with LCAs again anytime soon. Welcome to the rust belt :(
 

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2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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686 Posts
Front end: Installed new end links (moogs - problem solvers) and put new sway bar bushings and straps from CKE SSP (thanks @traildogck). The noise on slow bumps is gone and a sway bar is firmly attached to a car (before I could move it around as bushings were cracked and worn out). Car seems better planted than before and just seems to handle better through turns on county roads. Next week - going to a mechanic to get control arms replaced. Got all the bolts done but a pinch bolt :(
What happened to the pinch bolt ?!??? (Asked sarcastically)


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2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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686 Posts
Thanks for heads up. I do have Moog endlinks in the rear and so far so good. I feel like replacing them won’t be a royal pain like OEM ones (just horrible design). Will keep a close eye on fronts. Are you saying bushings from front sway bar were shot or are you saying Movotech LCA were done after a year? I don’t really want to deal with LCAs again anytime soon. Welcome to the rust belt :(
i am wagering the OEM sway bar bushings needed replacement as well as the LCA bushings. Cheaper to replace the LCA with mevotech aluminum arms


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2008 Outback 3.0R L.L. Bean
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35 Posts
My Mevotech LCA bushings and the Moog endlinks were both shot after 1.5 years and they were replaced at the same time. Like I said, the increased offset (+33) may have caused this.

Speaking of rust belt, when I installed the LCA, the through-bolt (don’t know what it’s called) that attaches the LCA to the spindle was seized and snapped the head of the bolt. I gave up, took it to a progressional shop and they had to replace the entire spindle as well since they couldn’t get the bolt out (yes I tried torching it, PBA blast, drilling it out, etc). They didn’t charge much though.


My Humble Build: Christopher Setter's 2008 Subaru Outback on Wheelwell
 

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2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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686 Posts
My Mevotech LCA bushings and the Moog endlinks were both shot after 1.5 years and they were replaced at the same time. Like I said, the increased offset (+33) may have caused this.

Speaking of rust belt, when I installed the LCA, the through-bolt (don’t know what it’s called) that attaches the LCA to the spindle was seized and snapped the head of the bolt. I gave up, took it to a progressional shop and they had to replace the entire spindle as well since they couldn’t get the bolt out (yes I tried torching it, PBA blast, drilling it out, etc). They didn’t charge much though.


My Humble Build: Christopher Setter's 2008 Subaru Outback on Wheelwell
Yep, that pinch bolt on the steering knuckle gets rust welded in there. Its the shoulder on the near side of the bolt head snd the threads on the opposite side. Some recommend having a spare bolt or a bolt&lock nut combo on hand when you cant bring it to a shop. Some recommended rocking the bolt back and forth (tighten first) to work the pb blaster/liquid wrench into the threads /shoulder area of the bolt


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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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78 Posts
hopefully LCA will last longer on my car. Yeah, I am thinking with professional tools, experience and better access (lift) they should be able to get it out easier. I tried PB blast and a torch as well. Very disappointing as I am literally down to one bolt on each side. It is so bad here that when I tried to replace sway bar on my wife’s 2016 (only 4 years!) I can’t break end links free. So this week I will be soaking them in PB blast and will try again next weekend.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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78 Posts
I just used a cut off wheel on my old endlinks. I could not get them off otherwise.


My Humble Build: Christopher Setter's 2008 Subaru Outback on Wheelwell
Did that with mine as well both rear and front :) but hers are still good. However, I am contemplating cutting OEMs off on hers anyway now so I don’t have to go through all that a few years down the road. I find Moog (others are probably that way too) better design as there is a spot for a wrench to keep it from spinning.
 

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2005 Outback VDC limited 3.0r
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632 Posts
Replaced both front tie rods and ball joints with delphi ones, and replaced all 4 sway bar end links. My pinch bolts weren't a problem, neither where the ball joints coming out of the knuckle (both where taken off 3 years ago and antiseized when reinstalled to do lca bushings). Although they fought coming out of the control arm, a ball joint separator made quick work of that. Although they dented the inner fender when they launched out, I even was going 1/4 turn tap with a hammer, repeat. Passenger side tie rod nut was "seized" according to Firestone when they did the alignment last, threads where just dirty, nothing working the nut back and forth with heat/pb blaster couldn't fix. Funny they even did the alignment before, and the 2nd time it was seized. Also found that the driver side lock nut was pretty loose, no where near the 62ft lbs required by fsm.
 

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2008 Outback LL Bean 3.0 R
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66 Posts
Replaced the fuel filter (OEM) and fuel pump strainer (Denso 952-0086; Subaru parts website does not list it as a separate item) this weekend.

Also built a DIY smoke tester following the lead of some Youtube videos to investigate any vacuum leaks I may have, how effective it is remains to be seen.
 

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Replaced both front struts/springs on my 3.0r with 138k miles. Passenger side came off with just a little p blaster, but sheered off one of the studs over tightening at the top. Had to tap out the stud and fit a new one in. The driver side was a bit more difficult to remove and needed to borrow some heat to get the bottom bolt off. Reinstall went smoothly. Off to the shop this week to get alignment.

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2006 2.5i Limited Manual
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30 Posts
Replaced the well worn rear trailing arm bushings with whiteline using the set-them-on-fire method from this thread. Had to wear a mask for the horrible fumes but other then that it wasn't too bad. Highly suggest using something more substantial then just layers of tin foil, maybe an old baking sheet. I replaced the rear strut towers with the primitive raised kit at the same time. Other then a bent bolt on the top of one of the strut towers they went in very easily. Doing the fronts today.

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JDM 2008 BP 9 Outback 2.5i Limited
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88 Posts
Replaced both front struts/springs on my 3.0r with 138k miles. Passenger side came off with just a little p blaster, but sheered off one of the studs over tightening at the top. Had to tap out the stud and fit a new one in. The driver side was a bit more difficult to remove and needed to borrow some heat to get the bottom bolt off. Reinstall went smoothly. Off to the shop this week to get alignment.

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Those top mount nuts only need 25 Nm, from memory.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5l AT and LPG fueled
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22 Posts
Extensive use of tire shine ate my plasti dip. So decided to un-dip the wheels and do a proper paint job incl. sanding all curb scratches.
un-dipping
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hand sanding
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hand hurts but beer helps 🤪
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primed
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applying paint & clear coat
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shiny
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I'm super happy with the end result. 🤗
Cheers
 
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