Subaru Outback Forums banner

5761 - 5780 of 5784 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
After replacing the struts a few weeks back, finally got the alignment done. What a world of difference. Have to work on the rest of the stable this weekend, but smelled a little gas with the windows open so need to chase that down.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
2006 Outback Sedan LLBean
Joined
·
479 Posts
Tryna help a friend. She goes to the dealer only and was quoted 500 to replace heat shields. Any one know of a reputable general mechanic or exhaust shop in the Asbury Park, NJ area?
 

·
Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
Joined
·
13,253 Posts
2005 Outback R 131k miles

I've only had this car for the last 3100 miles. Changed the oil when I got it and today it's less than a 1/2 quart low prior to changing it. Like a few mm from the full mark.

Oil change with RP 5/30 and Full oil filter
Trans fluid changed - Idemitsu HP
front and rear diff oils - 75W90 syn
valve covers with tube seals - Stone (made in Japan thank you and a perfect fit)
NGK iridiums
right front CV axle - FEQ (I've had success with this brand in the past on other Subies)
cleaned the engine and engine bay

Covers and plugs are simple. Remove battery, take off air intake tubing and resonator box. Remove air filter assembly. Remove the battery. Lift car. Drop exhaust manifolds and let em hang. Remove engine mount nuts. Remove bottom cover bolts and coils. Lower car and jack up one side of the engine, remove and clean cover. Swap plugs. Put it together and repeat the other side. Raise car. Install lower bolts and coils. Attach mounts, install manifolds. Lower car and drive it like you stole it.

And while I was working on it, a customer decided he needed to rev a C70 T5 multiple times like it was a race car and the timing belt jumped off a pulley. Dumbass, it's a VOLVO/Ford, not a sports car. "I was trying to find out what the ticking noise was." Injectors stupid. I'm thinking, "You want to rev an engine to redline multiple times, let me show you one of the WRXs or STIs. Maybe an XT." What the **** are people thinking? Really? He wouldn't have treated his Outback like that. If he does, he needs a bus pass, not a driver license.

That's my rant.
 

·
Registered
2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD 5eat , 2'' lift
Joined
·
1,535 Posts
The ones marked in red are both the same with different wrench, and on the passenger side?
No i ment that large wrench dont fit into those last cilinders from both sides so you need much smaller wrench for those just to unbolt that igintion coil . So only large wrench wont do all job. Small needed too.
I marked just on driver side thats worst place there. From passenger side much simplier still you need that smaller wrench for ignition coils. So just 2 size you need 12 and 16 for spark plugs.
 

·
Premium Member
2006 Outback Sedan LLBean
Joined
·
479 Posts
No i ment that large wrench dont fit into those last cilinders from both sides so you need much smaller wrench for those just to unbolt that igintion coil . So only large wrench wont do all job. Small needed too.
I marked just on driver side thats worst place there. From passenger side much simplier still you need that smaller wrench for ignition coils. So just 2 size you need 12 and 16 for spark plugs.
Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
2006 Outback Sedan LLBean
Joined
·
479 Posts
2005 Outback R 131k miles

I've only had this car for the last 3100 miles. Changed the oil when I got it and today it's less than a 1/2 quart low prior to changing it. Like a few mm from the full mark.

Oil change with RP 5/30 and Full oil filter
Trans fluid changed - Idemitsu HP
front and rear diff oils - 75W90 syn
valve covers with tube seals - Stone (made in Japan thank you and a perfect fit)
NGK iridiums
right front CV axle - FEQ (I've had success with this brand in the past on other Subies)
cleaned the engine and engine bay

Covers and plugs are simple. Remove battery, take off air intake tubing and resonator box. Remove air filter assembly. Remove the battery. Lift car. Drop exhaust manifolds and let em hang. Remove engine mount nuts. Remove bottom cover bolts and coils. Lower car and jack up one side of the engine, remove and clean cover. Swap plugs. Put it together and repeat the other side. Raise car. Install lower bolts and coils. Attach mounts, install manifolds. Lower car and drive it like you stole it.

And while I was working on it, a customer decided he needed to rev a C70 T5 multiple times like it was a race car and the timing belt jumped off a pulley. Dumbass, it's a VOLVO/Ford, not a sports car. "I was trying to find out what the ticking noise was." Injectors stupid. I'm thinking, "You want to rev an engine to redline multiple times, let me show you one of the WRXs or STIs. Maybe an XT." What the **** are people thinking? Really? He wouldn't have treated his Outback like that. If he does, he needs a bus pass, not a driver license.

That's my rant.
I dunno, I'd give the Volvo owner a pass. It really is a nice looking car, esp the convertible. I'd prob'ly not rev it for the sake of revving it, but I'd certainly drive it like I stole it 'cause I prob'ly did!
 

·
Registered
2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
Joined
·
5,384 Posts
And while I was working on it, a customer decided he needed to rev a C70 T5 multiple times like it was a race car and the timing belt jumped off a pulley. Dumbass, it's a VOLVO/Ford, not a sports car. "I was trying to find out what the ticking noise was." Injectors stupid. I'm thinking, "You want to rev an engine to redline multiple times, let me show you one of the WRXs or STIs. Maybe an XT." What the **** are people thinking? Really? He wouldn't have treated his Outback like that. If he does, he needs a bus pass, not a driver license.

That's my rant.
That's quite all right - that's what we're here for. With us, you can say exactly what's on your mind about the car and/or the customer. Within the customer's earshot, not so much so. Unless you're this guy, I guess:

484622
 

·
Registered
2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD 5eat , 2'' lift
Joined
·
1,535 Posts
made diy hitch bike rack for myself. as my hitch is very high from ground i needed just short thing there so my bikes wheels are about same height as rear bumper , so even if i go offroad with them they will be fine and safe there.
still need to make some bolt on thing to secure bike frame to that but thats not hard just need some rubber around and some ring that would secure frame and thats all.


 

·
Registered
2008 Outback LL Bean 3.0 R
Joined
·
66 Posts
Oil change/new oil filter. I put 6 oz of seafoam in the crankcase 100 miles before the job but the old oil did not look significantly dirtier than in previous oil changes - I guess either there wasn't much gunk to clean in the first place (which would be great) or I should've used more seafoam to get the ratio right (the can says 1 oz per quart of oil, FSM calls for 6 quarts when changing oil and filter but I drained right at 7 quarts this time which is on the dealership since they did my last oil change).
 

·
Registered
2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD 5eat , 2'' lift
Joined
·
1,535 Posts
Testing how those bikes move there how they hold on bad road like gravel with small holes so all car swings from side to side bikes swings a lot too, need to think of some better solution to tight them there. As they are mountain type ones those frames all different on angles and such not that easy to secure them


And found some weird wiring there coming from or to 2 cylinder ignition coil socket. That black wire should not be there.
Wonder could i measure something there with voltmeter, but i guess car needs to be runnimg for me to test there anything
Thats how i found it. Thats same cylinder wires that gives me missfire error
 

·
Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
Joined
·
13,253 Posts
@scalman generally a black wire is a ground. Check continuity to the block or battery.

As for the bike rack, maybe make a second arm for the bikes to rest on. Or make a longer rail for the bike frame with angle iron or steel and weld that on your single arm. Like maybe 6-8" long.
 

·
Registered
2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD 5eat , 2'' lift
Joined
·
1,535 Posts
@cardoc Yes black in middle is ground but which one of other two is voltage and which ecm them?
I maybe will cut that extra wire and see what happens, something will stop working i guess. Because i dont know is that bypass coming to it or its coming out to something else.

How those 123 pins goes on that socket. 1 from lock or 3rd from lock
 

·
Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
Joined
·
13,253 Posts
@scalman
the LB wire is battery the other two are signal wires to/from the ECM and ground. The ground wires go to the same ground lug for either side. Here's a better diagram. Number 1 pin is the lock side of the connector.
484864


I'll look at my 3.0R this evening, it's at home today, and let you know where the wire goes for sure. A solid black wire generally connects to the block as a ground reference.
 

·
Registered
2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD 5eat , 2'' lift
Joined
·
1,535 Posts
@cardoc so then my extra wire is on pin1 means its on ecm cable, but it would be on ecm signal cable i dont get it. I will recheck today but im pretty sure its on first pin from lock. And duno who connected it and why?
Could be related to LPG but it has its own brain that is connected trougn one socket no loose cables there. So what i have there im not sure... hmm

That yellow green is on pin1 .
 
5761 - 5780 of 5784 Posts
Top