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Awesomesauce!

As I will literally be changing the lights myself in a few weeks, was this a difficult or long task? I figure it will take a few hours tops, even with my lack of expertise...
No. This was very simple. On par with changing the oil. Like 8 bolts per light and 10-12x plastic clips on the belly pan and bumper. I actually did it again today with my buddy on his 08 impreza.
 

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2009 Subaru Outback SE in Quartz Silver
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35 Posts
Refreshed the cupholder area. Apparently, according to SOA purchasing a new neoprene insert for the cupholder area is not possible, as it the insert does not have a part number. My old one was just coming to pieces after harsh summers and winters in the dirty jersey - no pictures, but trust me it was in tatters.

Found some perfect replacements at a marine dealer online, Eddie Marine, for a mere buck and a half each and free shipping. While the result is not OEM, it's a lot better than listening to your can or bottle rattling against bare plastic.

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Obviously I forgot to take picture of empty cup area - here the first insert has already been inserted in the front cup holder.

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This is what the inserts looks like.

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Lot's of thumb impressions as I pushed down to secure the adhesive backing.

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All buttoned up.

Cheers!

-Swede
 

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I replaced the radiator due to a trans cooler fitting issue, went to take the wife and one of the dogs for a test drive and I blew a brake line in the driveway glad we didn’t make it on the road though.


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@fmxr47 I have a 2009 Forester which blew a brake line. Subaru dealer offered to cover it under the recall even though it had been completed 7 years earlier. In the end its a New York car very rusted they did not complete the repair.

Anyway 2 thoughts 1) if you have time check with the dealer you might get the work done for free. 2)I ordered parts from Speedway Motors, The Racing and Rodding Specialists
They have braided stainless lines and the Asian car to AN adapters you would need to make it work. With the flair tool cost me $105 bucks. I have not finished the job yet been helping someone move.


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@fmxr47 I have a 2009 Forester which blew a brake line. Subaru dealer offered to cover it under the recall even though it had been completed 7 years earlier. In the end its a New York car very rusted they did not complete the repair.

Anyway 2 thoughts 1) if you have time check with the dealer you might get the work done for free. 2)I ordered parts from Speedway Motors, The Racing and Rodding Specialists
They have braided stainless lines and the Asian car to AN adapters you would need to make it work. With the flair tool cost me $105 bucks. I have not finished the job yet been helping someone move.


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With my car being lifted I’m not going to bother with trying the dealer because I would need to tow it up there anyhow and end up losing money, they would find a way out of it for sure. I have the tools to do the job, I just have other projects stacking up at the same time and thought I was finally done with this car for a short while. I need to crawl under the car and figure out if it’s a bad section or the entire line is junk.


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EU 2005 Outback 3.0
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35 Posts
Fearing failing next smog test (thank you nice inspector for letting my car pass in 2019), I checked carbon deposits in the intake. The car has 167000km (104000 miles).

I cleaned the throttle body 1 year ago without taking it down, which was beneficial on idle and low range smoothness and fuel economy. Given its condition on the manifold side, I will clean it again better.
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The intake manifold is covered with oily sludge. But, would cleaning be useful as air flow doesn't seem restricted?
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With a cheap borescope bought on Aliexpress for 4,44 €, I managed to check some valves. For information, I have been using premium top tier fuel (Total Excellium 98) for 2700km. The worst are on cylinders 5 & 6:
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Here is a view or the cylinder 2, more typical of what I saw everywhere else, with fewer deposits on the valve and the port:
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Finally a valve seat, on cylinder 4, which looks OK I think.
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I will just empty 1 or 2 bottle of PEA-based cleaner in the tank for that. I assume the pistons are OK too. I am just undecided about the manifold.
 

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Pulled the engine and transmission out of my 2011 Impreza. Used my 2005 Outback to haul it to the garage for tear down and cleaning. 2011 is heading to a firehouse to be cut up


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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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1,841 Posts
new muds , very chunky very agressive look, very large even for my 7cm lift there.
they 235/75r15


some more cuting because they where too tight


 

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2005 LL Bean 3.0
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91 Posts
That's awesome! That's the size tire I run on my daily driver Jeep XJ - crazy to see them under a 3rd Gen Outback.

I found out the other day that prices for EZ30 NGK spark plugs went up by $5 within the past year or so. Went to pick up some sensors for my JDM replacement engine and thought, "why not get new plugs, just in case..." They're a bit more than $16 a plug now when they were $11.96 when I bought them in October, 2019. Same dealer.
 

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7cm lift is impressive!

I increased sidewall height from stock by 5% as I noticed the ecu was off by about +4% (speedo and odo) with 225/55/17, so the 225/60/17 should be spot on over the life of the tire.

Also did sway bar bushings - stiff energy suspension polyurethane in the rear, and beck arnley oem soft rubber in the front. This was very easy and made a significant improvement to the suspension which I thought would have to be replaced. Ran ~$40 from rock auto. The stiffer rear bushings noticeably improve turn-in, so that feels great for the wagon.
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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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228 Posts
Weekend: vacuumed, cleaned, seats got leather treatment, went through a car wash.
Brake line broke. Classic Subaru rear passenger corner on which a recall was done for rustproofing :( not sure what to do next.
 

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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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those front wheels where not in perfect place and on driver side where even too much back, so changed again to oem bushings control arm and then added couple spacers , i think that moved my wheel more in front that now i dont have any problems with front wheel touching anything no matter how much i turn it i still have about 3cm space there. so that was best thing to fix for last days with those tires.
that bottom left image is with halfway turned wheel, before that part was when tire was touching there
 

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2008 Outback 2.5l AT and LPG fueled
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50 Posts
those front wheels where not in perfect place ... then added couple spacers...
No matter how much I like Scalmans" hack and tinker reports" I would be concerned about technical safety. This kinda reminds me on the maintenance shops while I was working in Nigeria where fixing cars caused sometimes more than raised eyebrows.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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7,195 Posts
No matter how much I like Scalmans" hack and tinker reports" I would be concerned about technical safety.
Many countries, including the US, don't have the mandatory vehicle inspection intervals that Germany does. And even where there is some degree of inspection, it's often limited to emissions. There is a subculture here as well for such modifications, and for example it's estimated that 30% of the new pickups on the road are modified for suspension, performance, etc. Some of these can be pretty dangerous on the roads, either to the occupants or to others, including pedestrians.

But at the end of the day, it boils down to the competence of the person doing the work, and the parts used. I read most of the threads that document the work done by @scalman and it does seem that he is doing this competently, with good quality, proven materials.
 

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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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No matter how much I like Scalmans" hack and tinker reports" I would be concerned about technical safety. This kinda reminds me on the maintenance shops while I was working in Nigeria where fixing cars caused sometimes more than raised eyebrows.
those spacers , they sell them with lift kits , so then lift kits spacers are ok for you ? its same thing. they put spacers for lift and then they put spacers to center your wheels, they are spacers, same thing just cost hundreds. i wouldnt drive car that is not safe to drive, thats allways most important thing for me .
and no we cant past MOT here if car has any extra spacers, so for MOT we can just drive there for test with those , sure not. but you wont be stopped on street and told that your car somehow is not leagl to drive, not in this state, im not going here nowehere extreme , its not super large lift on super large tires and such. with stock bumper this would still look oem car just with larger tires, nothing else.
if i just could have better tools and better garage i could make those lift kits myself no prob and all kind of kits there, but im not doing that, just doing stuff for myself , testing what suspension i have here what could be done with it different then lift kits gives us . and im finding good stuff there that i didint knew before too.

mean everyone doing that and its fine, but im not even close to that




in reality what i made till now like hi lift jack points and other stuff its like more stronger then it needs to be , nobody does that stuff , its not needed that heavy that thick metal that strong but i made it so i could feel myself safe there.
i wish i would live in places where i could tinker even more and modify stuff more and learn more.. lol



and small teaser of whats coming. 2 on sides and 1 in rear

. those cheap ones, 7 euros for 27w led light will be pretty cool, just need to get wires, i wanted ones with remote control but couldnt get that localy, there is allways alixpress sure but waiting is too long , i hate wait. and i will put something in front too there too some led bar , again cheap. would be nice to make some remote control like for 4 lights and have to able control them when you want need from distance. dont get it why those remote controls are not popular enough localy. maybe i need to make something myself then again.
 

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2009 Subaru Outback SE in Quartz Silver
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35 Posts
7cm lift is impressive!

I increased sidewall height from stock by 5% as I noticed the ecu was off by about +4% (speedo and odo) with 225/55/17, so the 225/60/17 should be spot on over the life of the tire.

Also did sway bar bushings - stiff energy suspension polyurethane in the rear, and beck arnley oem soft rubber in the front. This was very easy and made a significant improvement to the suspension which I thought would have to be replaced. Ran ~$40 from rock auto. The stiffer rear bushings noticeably improve turn-in, so that feels great for the wagon. View attachment 506981 View attachment 506983 View attachment 506982 View attachment 506985
@hiwayBob what's involved with changing the bushings. I've owned replacements for 2 years, but have been hesitant about getting going on this task. What's the nickel tour of what, how, how long?
 
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