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'06 OBW, 2.5i, 4AT, Champagne Gold Opal (hate that colour!)
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For the last 5 days, I did some rust-getting-rid-of, on the bottom of my 2 driver-side doors and a touch on both wheel wells at the back (where the removable guards are), as well as touching up any chips or parts of the body that required touch-up paint.

There actually wasn't nearly as much as I thought, but I Dremeled everything down until the shiny sheet metal showed, then JB Weld-ed those spots, to fill in a bit of the metal in order to make it flush with the non-sanded portion of the door, let it sit a night, then did 3 coats of primer, let it sit a night, then used the touch-up paint.

You can see the little stone-chip touch-ups (I'm not the greatest with the stuff), but the doors and wheel wells came out perfectly and hopefully that will stop the rust for at least another 2 years or so (I am also getting a Krown spray on the 8th).

In everyone's opinion, is it worth it to detail the inside of your car if it is in need of a good cleaning (I'd pay for this, as I don't have the time and patience to do the interior lol, outside of vacuuming) or is it worthwhile to just vacuum and wash the rubber mats? I don't have a lot of salt, as it all goes on the rubber, but some does leech onto the cloth mats...
 

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2005 3.0R
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236 Posts
Weekend: vacuumed, cleaned, seats got leather treatment, went through a car wash.
Brake line broke. Classic Subaru rear passenger corner on which a recall was done for rustproofing :( not sure what to do next.
The recall was carried out on mine a few years ago... By "carried out", I mean they blindly sprayed some rustproofing crud on already-starting-to-rust lines. I doubt they were even inspected...

The lines failed last summer. I was expecting a fight at the dealership, but there was none. New lines were installed. Mind you, they had the car for 3wks and I got it back with a dead battery, handbrake trim piece missing and an oily rag still knotted to the front swaybar on the drivers side...

I'm delaying having the second airbag recall done as I don't really want them to break anything else while they're at it. First time around, I got the car back with cracked or broken tabs on the dash that caused lots of creaking/squeaking.
 

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'06 OBW, 2.5i, 4AT, Champagne Gold Opal (hate that colour!)
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59 Posts
I don't get the techs here in Canada; they do a good job when an actual repair or anything needs to be done, but I too have gotten black on my (literally) just-shampooed interior, due to them coming into the car all greasy (they didn't cover up), for a free oil change and they somehow screwed up my wife's Impreza's fuel/trunk switch (which worked just fine, prior), when they did the Takata... makes no sense lol
 

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2005 3.0R
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236 Posts
I don't get the techs here in Canada; they do a good job when an actual repair or anything needs to be done, but I too have gotten black on my (literally) just-shampooed interior, due to them coming into the car all greasy (they didn't cover up), for a free oil change and they somehow screwed up my wife's Impreza's fuel/trunk switch (which worked just fine, prior), when they did the Takata... makes no sense lol
I've never been a fan of dealerships, but one Soob dealer in particular in Ottawa... Every time I've been to them, it's something. There was a service bulleting thing for a re-flash of my TCU. Took it in and figured now would be a good time to flush the fluid. Specifically asked the "service advisor" about flushing vs a drain/fill... "Well, a flush is a flush, OBVIOUSLY." Whatever. Pick it up and there's an extra charge for resetting the TCU. When I question it, he tells me the TCU needs to be reset after a fluid flush. Sure, that's a thing... but wouldn't the TCU flash accomplish that anyway? "Oh. Ummmm... Well... No, but I'll take it off anyway." Got home and took a closer look at the work order and I see I've been charged for 3 units of transmission fluid, plus a ridiculous amount for labour. So I guess a flush isn't really a flush, after all. That prompted a visit with the service manager.

Dealerships are great for warranty work on nearly new vehicles, where they just have to swap parts until it's fixed, and not have to deal with rusty bolts or brittle plastic.

My real mechanic... Indie shop that specializes in Subarus. Former dealer tech, but one of the good ones that couldn't stand to work for them... Most of his clients are dealership refugees who got recommended to him through word of mouth. Someone I sent to him told me he solved an ongoing issue that dealer quoted 1700 (on top of the 700 already spent) to fix and he did it for under a hundred bucks. He's someone who actually has the knowledge to troubleshoot and find the problem, without throwing parts at it on the customer's dime.

Sorry... that turned into a bit of a rant. To keep this relevant, what did I do to my Subaru today? Well, I threw away an urgent recall notice for the airbag that they replaced two years ago. Apparently, they used a brand new old-style faulty unit to replace the original faulty unit, because not enough of the correct replacements were available? Am I getting that right? So now they want my car again to put in the new, right one. I figure if the original didn't kill anyone in 12 years, then the one they installed should be okay for a couple more years?
 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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226 Posts
The recall was carried out on mine a few years ago... By "carried out", I mean they blindly sprayed some rustproofing crud on already-starting-to-rust lines. I doubt they were even inspected...

The lines failed last summer. I was expecting a fight at the dealership, but there was none. New lines were installed. Mind you, they had the car for 3wks and I got it back with a dead battery, handbrake trim piece missing and an oily rag still knotted to the front swaybar on the drivers side...

I'm delaying having the second airbag recall done as I don't really want them to break anything else while they're at it. First time around, I got the car back with cracked or broken tabs on the dash that caused lots of creaking/squeaking.
Did you call and talk to them about it? Did they say it will be done under "warranty" or did you have to suggest to them? Did you have to call Subaru HQ first before going to dealership to get it approved from headquarters? I am contemplating calling Subaru of America first and try to get it approved for work that way. No a big fan of dealership in my town and I am 99% they will just turn me down if I call without pre-approval. And yes I agree that way they handle the recall was a joke. Mine is 2008 and 2nd recall came out in 2013 or so. Pretty sure it helped with nothing after 5 years in rust belt.
 

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2005 3.0R
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236 Posts
Did you call and talk to them about it? Did they say it will be done under "warranty" or did you have to suggest to them? Did you have to call Subaru HQ first before going to dealership to get it approved from headquarters? I am contemplating calling Subaru of America first and try to get it approved for work that way. No a big fan of dealership in my town and I am 99% they will just turn me down if I call without pre-approval. And yes I agree that way they handle the recall was a joke. Mine is 2008 and 2nd recall came out in 2013 or so. Pretty sure it helped with nothing after 5 years in rust belt.
I called the dealership to book it in for inspection. Mentioned the recall, they said they'd see if it qualified. Waited for the call, expecting a fight... Got myself pretty amped up for it, actually... but they just said "Yep. We're just waiting on the lines." I got a loaner, but even that was another hassle. "Service is overbooked, all the loaners are out." I had to to call every morning to see if they had one coming in, I guess because they can't be trusted to maintain a list. I lucked out after a week and felt like I won the lottery!
 

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Registered
'06 OBW, 2.5i, 4AT, Champagne Gold Opal (hate that colour!)
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59 Posts
I've never been a fan of dealerships, but one Soob dealer in particular in Ottawa... Every time I've been to them, it's something. There was a service bulleting thing for a re-flash of my TCU. Took it in and figured now would be a good time to flush the fluid. Specifically asked the "service advisor" about flushing vs a drain/fill... "Well, a flush is a flush, OBVIOUSLY." Whatever. Pick it up and there's an extra charge for resetting the TCU. When I question it, he tells me the TCU needs to be reset after a fluid flush. Sure, that's a thing... but wouldn't the TCU flash accomplish that anyway? "Oh. Ummmm... Well... No, but I'll take it off anyway." Got home and took a closer look at the work order and I see I've been charged for 3 units of transmission fluid, plus a ridiculous amount for labour. So I guess a flush isn't really a flush, after all. That prompted a visit with the service manager.

Dealerships are great for warranty work on nearly new vehicles, where they just have to swap parts until it's fixed, and not have to deal with rusty bolts or brittle plastic.

My real mechanic... Indie shop that specializes in Subarus. Former dealer tech, but one of the good ones that couldn't stand to work for them... Most of his clients are dealership refugees who got recommended to him through word of mouth. Someone I sent to him told me he solved an ongoing issue that dealer quoted 1700 (on top of the 700 already spent) to fix and he did it for under a hundred bucks. He's someone who actually has the knowledge to troubleshoot and find the problem, without throwing parts at it on the customer's dime.

Sorry... that turned into a bit of a rant. To keep this relevant, what did I do to my Subaru today? Well, I threw away an urgent recall notice for the airbag that they replaced two years ago. Apparently, they used a brand new old-style faulty unit to replace the original faulty unit, because not enough of the correct replacements were available? Am I getting that right? So now they want my car again to put in the new, right one. I figure if the original didn't kill anyone in 12 years, then the one they installed should be okay for a couple more years?
I hear ya; I did go to my local dealer (Barrie) when I moved up here in early 2019, but that stopped after July last year, when they refused to do an alignment (HORRIBLE tire wear on my right-front), "because your bushings are all dried and cracked." Long story short, I got the parts needed, was given the name of a guy who does 75% Subarus (he also owns an '09 Forester, his sister an '07 and his dad an '11 Impreza, but before the Impreza, he had the exact same model, colour and year of my actual OBW lol) he looked at it, saw that, "your bushings are fine. No cracks or dried." (but they are old, as they are the originals from 2006). So I spent a bunch on parts for nothing and I still didn't get an alignment, but yeah, unless it's for an oil change 'cause I can't get it done myself or something only they can do (which is little to nothing), I'm never going to them again. It's too bad too, the service chick on the weekends is phenomenal, super-friendly and doesn't pressure you into things.
 

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2006 Subaru Outback Wagon LLBean 3.0R Automatic
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939 Posts


Ski Season has ended.
So I set the Outback up for fair weather driving.

Removed the Thule cargo box and all the ski gear.

Washed the car.

Rotated and balanced the Nokian WRG4 225/55 17 tires, and set Cold inflation to factory specs.



fwiw
Operating pressure changes based on climate, it can be 5psi higher than Cold inflation.
And "cold" is very relative to the time of day.

My preferred maximum warm dry Highway Operating Inflation is 37front 34rear. I find higher than those Operating pressures makes ride comfort unpleasant, as the tires Bang over road seams and Lane Divider Dots.

Calibrated some deflators to set highway Operating pressure.


I have a long highway drive tomorrow. Once I am on the road, if weather and driving conditions increase the tire pressure too much, deflators let me easily adjust maximum driving pressures for my comfort.
 

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'06 OBW, 2.5i, 4AT, Champagne Gold Opal (hate that colour!)
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59 Posts
Got my Wildpeaks on yesterday, replaced my license plate bulbs and FINALLY got the old roof rack off my car, so I can put my new bars on :D.

The tires are fantastic; big and beefy, bumps are smoother and there is 0 sound. A lot of the improvements may just be placebo-effect (save for the sound; they make 0 noise), but I am stoked to try these when we go canoeing or driving out east, this year (my mechanic really liked them too and he may get some for his Forester).

Today, am getting an alignment, long-awaited (and needed) :).
 

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05,Outback XT Limited
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267 Posts
Not so much what I did but what my car did it gave me these wonderful codes..
I did start a discussion on this but thought that I would get a laugh with everybody or at least trying the laugh out of this 🥴

I really hope this is my car telling me April fools but I'm thinking it's not a joke.
 

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2006 Subaru Outback Wagon LLBean 3.0R Automatic
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I went for a scenic drive after rotating tires and setting cold pressure to 35psi front and rear in the morning.

drove 10 miles on the freeway on a sunny afternoon, tires were up to 40psi, and the ride was a little crisp, or bouncy, particularly the tail, adjusted down to 38psi, which I liked, felt the ride was smoother.

travelled another 50 miles of pavement,
then took a wrong turn, and encountered washboard and river rocks..
the ride was too jarring, could not go over 10mph, stopped and checked pressures, they were at 39, so I aired the front down to 37 and the back down to 34psi..

still could not go faster than 15mph, but the ride was less jarring, and I thought I only had 2 miles to go, so did not want to air down further.. even though I was carrying a compressor...

eventually ended up at a locked gate, and had to turn around and backtrack a couple of miles,
then found my way onto reasonably smooth dirt,
stopped for another photo op:


===
update the morning after
it is 45F outside and the tires dropped to 33 front and 31 rear overnight..

when I was driving 75mph for an hour on the freeway yesterday afternoon, it was 65F outside and Operating pressures were at 37 front, 34 rear..

iow, the operating pressure was +4 psi front, +3 psi rear, compared to 8am cold pressure

moral of the story..
Cold pressure can be very different than operating pressure.. depending on climate.. There was a 20F difference between morning and afternoon ambient temperature here.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT
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17 Posts
20210403_132416.jpg

Took care of the unfortunate chunk of chrome Subaru saw fit to attach to the front end of my otherwise decent looking car. Did the chrome lip on the hatch as well.
I tried plastidip on the last car I did this to but it didn't hold up very well. This time I bought a few square feet of matte black vinyl. It's much cheaper so if this holds up, I'll be using vinyl from now on.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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226 Posts
View attachment 507903
Took care of the unfortunate chunk of chrome Subaru saw fit to attach to the front end of my otherwise decent looking car. Did the chrome lip on the hatch as well.
I tried plastidip on the last car I did this to but it didn't hold up very well. This time I bought a few square feet of matte black vinyl. It's much cheaper so if this holds up, I'll be using vinyl from now on.
Did you have to remove chrome pieces or did you just wrap them while on the car?
 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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226 Posts
Nothing today other than some research on fixing rusted through brake lines. If you had that issues before and ended up fixing it yourself or are brake wizard please take a look at linked topic and see if you have good pointers, suggestion or advice. Appreciate it. Rusted Lines on 08OB
 
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