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2006 2.5i Limited Manual
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74 Posts
Drove to maine hauling the big kayak and camped on an island, which was awesome. If you're in the area you have to check out the Maine Island Trail.
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Less awesome are some of the issues I ran into. Prior to this trip I was getting some weird suspension noise, I suspected the sway bar end links. I removed the rear sway bar altogether and confirmed at least one of those end links was toast. I removed the front ones but they seemed fine so I re-connected them. Evidently I didn't tighten them down enough because I was getting this bad metal on metal clunking noise whenever the car would sway even slightly at low speeds. Gotta get under there and sure this up. Also the original noise is still there :(

Additionally, the rear hatch wiring harness gasket started leaking water into the trunk, which sucks. Any ideas how to repair this cheaply/easily? I believe the water is seeping in here and only when the car is parked on flat ground. The wiring boot/gasket thing doesn't seem to have any holes, it just seems like water is leaking in. I have added an extra wire to this bundle for my rear hatch lights so I'm not shocked it's having some issues.
Boat Vehicle Automotive tire Naval architecture Automotive exterior


Lastly, P0420! Read through this thread, hoping it's just crappy gas but fearing worse. Later today I'll see if I can pull data from the ECU using my cheap dongle and prove/disprove some of the other possibilities.
 

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19,386 Posts
Re the leak, if the accordian-like section doesn't have a holes or tears, ensure that the larger grommet at the lower end (in the photo) is fitted properly into the opening in the car body. The photo is too small to see clearly, but it looks as if it's not in straight.
 

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2020 Onyx
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13,455 Posts
@maland2 I have used "flowable silicone" sealant for leaks like yours and it works excellently. It's not a strong adhesive, so you can both coat the bottom of the boot before inserting it, and then put a bead around the interface of the boot and the painted metal. If you ever have to remove the thing it will come off. If in doubt, test its properties on some other stuff before doing your car.

 
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2006 2.5i Limited Manual
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74 Posts
Re the leak, if the accordian-like section doesn't have a holes or tears, ensure that the larger grommet at the lower end (in the photo) is fitted properly into the opening in the car body. The photo is too small to see clearly, but it looks as if it's not in straight.
Thanks for the tip! That photo is just ripped from google, but I'll be sure to check this out.

@maland2 I have used "flowable silicone" sealant for leaks like yours and it works excellently. It's not a strong adhesive, so you can both coat the bottom of the boot before inserting it, and then put a bead around the interface of the boot and the painted metal. If you ever have to remove the thing it will come off. If in doubt, test its properties on some other stuff before doing your car.

Assuming there's no rips & everything is seated properly, I think this is what I'm going to go with. This stuff seems perfect.
 

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2006 Subaru Outback Wagon LLBean 3.0R Automatic
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1,181 Posts
some rear hatch leaks come from the middle brake light in the spoiler:

 

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2009 Outback 2.5i Limited 4AT
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36 Posts
Had new tires mounted a couple weeks ago (Pirelli P7 Cinturato All Season Plus) and they are lightyears better than the old used dealer specials. Quiet and way more traction in all circumstances.

Today I did the independent fog light mod. I rerouted the blue wire with a white stripe that comes out of the relay with a fuse tap on the 12v socket fuse. I'll probably use a different fuse eventually so they come on with ignition rather than the acc position. So far works great and looks great. The fogs can be turned on regardless of the light switch position. They still turn off with the high beams (I think they legally need to) which is what I was looking for.

Edit: Here are some pictures
Tire Wheel Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle Car Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Motor vehicle
 

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2006 2.5i Limited Manual
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74 Posts
some rear hatch leaks come from the middle brake light in the spoiler:

Good to know, I'll definitely check this out. For today I parked it with the front wheels on ramps and that seems to have mitigated the leaking.

Also, my CEL is gone! I was hoping it would go away after another fill up, because the last one had been on sketchy Maine gas, but I was driving last night and noticed it was gone. I still might take the car out and log the ODB 2 data just to see if anything is slightly out of spec, and because I already bought a logging app.

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2008 Subaru Outback XT
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35 Posts
Finished putting the engine back together after spinning a rod bearing this past spring.
Automotive tire Hood Tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part

First time I've ever had an EJ apart. Hopefully I didn't miss anything.
Did a few things to help this one live. Obviously added the AOS and catted DP, not so obvious are Killer B oil pickup, ARP head studs, opened up ring gaps, ported oil passages and wastegate as well as sensors for EGT, boost, oil pressure and AFR.
 

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2009 Outback XT Limited yes Turbo
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41 Posts
New Spark Plugs installed by Subaru dealer mechanic. Bent front wheel reported by dealer -- causing reported vibration at 50-55mph. Ordered new-used wheel off eBay $100 shipped (fingers crossed). Asked dealer for quote to R&R banjo bolt and filer at the turbocharger inlet.
 

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2005 3L LL Bean Outback
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322 Posts
Hadn't driven my outback for about 6 months because I've been driving my legacy which recently started developing a noisy (manual) transmission. Back to the outback while I ponder on what to do with the legacy. But the outback still had studded snow tires so I needed to get some all seasons. While driving to discount tire, the outback started shaking and jerking. CEL came on. Made it to discount tire and my reader says P305, cylinder 5 misfire detected. Decided to drive to a subaru mechanic where I used to live, some 40 miles away. Made it to the mechanic but they couldn't schedule me for today, and definitely didn't want to work around the engine while it was still hot. So I asked them "can I do it myself?" and they said yes. So they gave me tools to remove the coil pack, which was clearly bad. They gave me a used coil pack I could use to replace the faulty one, gave me an extra (used) coil pack in case another coil goes bad, and a (used but fairly clean) spark plug in case a coil damages a spark plug. Most importantly, I got some guidance. Never replaced a single coil let alone spark plug on this 6 cylinder. Wasn't that difficult but I also got the right tools, like a swivel ratchet with a swivel extension with a jointed spark plug socket, making it fairly easy to get the socket on the plug. Replacing the coil fixed the issue and when I asked them what I owed them they told me it was free. Would even better if my engine was cooler (bit painful at times), but beggars can't be choosers. Coil on the left is what came out and coil on the right is what went in (coil in the background is the spare I received), all made by Diamond:

Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Electrical wiring Metal


The spark plug tool:

Bicycle fork Automotive exhaust Bumper Wood Automotive tire


Even made it to discount tire. Got some Michelin Defenders (T+H). And I got them with the an H speed rating because I really can't stand the V rating it's supposed to have (very noticeable when switching to and from snow tires). These Michelins seem a bit noisy, but I had the same initial impression last time I got Michelins (MXsomething Primacy), which turned out to be that the tires were actually so quiet that I was hearing my drive shaft.

Edit: picture of the tool
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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8,259 Posts
Made it to the mechanic but they couldn't schedule me for today, and definitely didn't want to work around the engine while it was still hot. So I asked them "can I do it myself?" and they said yes. So they gave me tools to remove the coil pack, which was clearly bad. They gave me a used coil pack I could use to replace the faulty one, gave me an extra (used) coil pack in case another coil goes bad, and a (used but fairly clean) spark plug in case a coil damages a spark plug. Most importantly, I got some guidance. .... Replacing the coil fixed the issue and when I asked them what I owed them they told me it was free.
Nice guys. They know it pays them many dividends later to treat a customer well.

Never replaced a single coil let alone spark plug on this 6 cylinder. Wasn't that difficult but I also got the right tools ....
Which cylinder?
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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18,664 Posts
Not a common failure but critical part so, good job.

Please share the name and location of this shop. They seem like outstanding folks!
 

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2005 3L LL Bean Outback
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322 Posts
Which cylinder?
5. Most rear on the passenger side.

Please share the name and location of this shop. They seem like outstanding folks!
I've had my gen2 serviced by them, but that was years ago. After replacing the coil pack I asked for a quote for the transmission issue on my legacy which seems like a heavy lifting job I don't want to do myself. $ 1600 parts and labor if they have to replace all the clutch area parts, which is probably the issue. More than 3x times than what I paid for my legacy! Everything seems expensive with a car that came this cheap.

 

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2008 Subaru Outback XT (MT) & 2016 Subaru Outback Ltd
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286 Posts
A super small thing but makes me happy as it was the last interior piece that I was trying to replace/fix. Dealer sells plastic ends for $50+ per side (!!!!!!!) so I basically refused to pay that much. I paid $5 on Craigslist for a full rear gate board. I removed side plastic clips and put them on my rear gate board which is in better shape but had plastic ends cracked.
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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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1,898 Posts
Maybe black more subtle but why not try other colors.
And back to 5cm lift spacers from 7cm. Its better for rear cv axles and front steering rack as less extreme angles
 

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2009 Outback 2.5i Limited 4AT
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36 Posts
Here are some pictures of my OB after doing the independent fog mod.
Vehicle registration plate Vehicle Automotive lighting Sky Car

I wired them into the 12v socket power so they can be turned on regardless of the headlight switch position. They also turn off momentarily while the starter cranks which protects the led fogs and makes it look closer to factory. Wiring the fogs this way also retains the ability for the fogs to automagically turn off with the high beams, which they are supposed to do to be legal. I use the fogs as drls instead of the dimmed high beams because I like the look better and the leds will (hopefully) last longer. Plus these can be turned off if I ever wanted to.
 

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2006 2.5i Limited Manual
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74 Posts
Was rotating the tires and while I was under there noticed that the driver-side rear upper inner control arm bushing was totally blown out. Just ordered the parts (inner and outer bushing/bolts/nuts) from my local dealership, now I just have to find a place with a press that's willing to press the old ones out and the new ones in. The first two local shops I called said they don't have a press, they just replace the whole control arm. For the price of a new control arm I could buy a 12 ton harbor freight press myself!
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Rim Gas


Also noticed the bushings on my rear struts didn't look so hot, despite being only year-old KYB units. Anyone else seen this/know if it's bad?
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I have access to a 40ton press, and when I did mine, which looked like that, it wasn't enough. Ended up burning out the rubber, then cutting the outer shell with a diamond tip and then knocking the shell out with a chisel and hammer. It was quicker than finding a press setup that didn't work anyways.
 
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