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05 OBXT stock + preventative mods and an oil consuming turbo
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I need to do this. Did you get the climate control and radio piece on eBay?
I purchased from AVOJDM (SKU H6217AG911 + hazard switch 83037AG001), plus I88 from TightFitFabrication (sku JDM-LGT-i88 includes stereo adapter). while an expensive option, it was the least amount of time/energy and everything was good quality.

There are still the same issues as I have read in the forums from the past: hvac screen is dimmer than all other screens and there is a gap on the right side of the bezel and trim. Nothing I can't live with.
 

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2008 OBXT; 2007 Spec.B; 2003 WRX
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137 Posts
View attachment 525502
Finally got around to installing the split radio bezel and a head unit. First car I have owned in 13 years that I have had a working audio system in. I88 adapter made by TightFitFabrication and he did an excellent job making my life and this install easy as can be. I will be wrapping or plastidipping the boot surround trim to be black as well soon.



I am getting ready to do suspension as well and have started looking at bushings that might need replaced. I have read about the front lower rear bushings, and the rear upper bushing at the knuckle for camber adjustment. What else typically needs replaced?
Sway bar bushings for me, other than that you hit the most common failures. End links are not entirely uncommon failure points either.
 

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9 Posts
Replaced plugs and wires a month ago or so. Every plug well was full of oil. So I ordered gaskets and plug tube seals and this weekend started digging in, all prepared with tricks learned here and from youtube.

But when I got to them this time the plug wells were bone dry. So I decided to just close up and scratch my head about it for a while. Any wisdom?
 

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'06 OBW, 2.5i, 4AT, Champagne Gold Opal (hate that colour!)
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167 Posts
@markcrim

My plug boots were covered in oil and my mechanic just used some white lithium grease (or something in a spray bottle to flush the oil out. It did make it better temporarily (he said it would just be a 6 month fix or so), as I was getting a misfire (first time ever).

Can't say anything else though; as mentioned above, I'm doing my HG next year, so the issue will presumably stop.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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8,508 Posts
But when I got to them this time the plug wells were bone dry. So I decided to just close up and scratch my head about it for a while. Any wisdom?
Were the leaks perhaps external, later resolved, and not from the valve cover gaskets / plug seals? I’ve seen the result of an oil filler cap being left off; it flings oil everywhere about the engine compartment (admittedly on a Toyota I4 2.2 litre, not a Subaru boxer). It’s harder to imagine any source on a boxer that could do this, though, since oil spilled on both sides.
 

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2005 3L LL Bean Outback
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349 Posts
Lazily looking into a P0420 which I've had since owning the car. Had an emissions test in the first year of ownership which passed (I'd like to say with flying colors, but I can't recall). I've always just cleared the code, just like on my gen2. Recently I've been noticing mini-detonations, seemingly in the exhaust. Could have something to do with not driving the car for ~6 months or so, which is around or just before I started noticing the detonations. Thought it was bad fuel but I've gone through 8-10 tanks of (91) gas since then. I really notice the detonations after some time of driving and for the most part when at a standstill at the stop light. On occasion I notice it while driving but less so when the engine is under load. Started to measure O2 sensors which so far is not showing the sensors being bad, but I have to take more measurements. Also had a bad coil pack not too long ago. I've been hearing that once one goes, the rest may follow shortly thereafter. Have to eventually pull and inspect the remaining 5 coil packs.

Today, I just unplugged the MAF sensor with the intent to clean the bulb. When I removed it I noticed the O-ring (on the left in the picture) was broken. Curious if some pieces of that broken O-ring ended up being sucked into the engine. In any case, I cleaned the bulb which had some black/carbon-like caking on one side (can't recall if it was the up- or downstream side). Found an O-ring in my truck's power steering service kit which is shown in the picture. That was actually too large as the sensor would not fit in the intake hose. Found another O-ring in some universal O-ring kit I have. Seemed too small but it actually did fit, while allowing the sensor to snugly fit in the intake hose. For comparison, I inserted the sensor into the intake hose without any O-ring and noticed it would move around. With the O-ring I'm now using it effectively has no wiggle room and seems to be well sealed. Interesting that there is no O-ring listed for the parts around the intake, and the sensor itself (over $ 170 at the dealer!) doesn't show an O-ring. Took it for a short drive and I'd like to say it's running better but it could be a placebo effect. Need some more driving to see if this made a difference. Remind me to pick up some O-rings next time I'm at the parts store.

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior Material property
 

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Appears to be some fuzz on the assembly. Did you clean it off with a MAF sensor spray?

Note, the bulb that we see in the photo is the air intake temperature sensor. The MAF (air low) sensor elements (two fine wires) are inside the tube, near to the bottom in the photo. Only safe way to clean them is with a specific MAF sensor spray. Dirt on the surface of the wires can affect the air flow reading, and therefore the fuel trim control.
 

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2005 3L LL Bean Outback
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349 Posts
The "fuzz" (well spotted) is from the paper towel I used together with MAF specific sensor spray. Could have used a better (more lint-free) towel. I didn't actually clean the wires which I seem to have overlooked (thanks for bringing that up). I'll reinspect and clean that today.

I did capture some of the fuel trims while I was monitoring/logging O2 sensor data (prior to MAF inspection/cleaning). I just used Torque to capture these data points. I was still exploring which data points to log and I'm not sure about the "O2 sensor1 wide-range Voltage" values, which seem to be scaled. I need to find the other sensors. The service manual states (GD(H6DO)-118) as Malfunction Criteria for the O2 sensors: "Accumulated variation of output voltage of rear oxygen sensor per 32 milliseconds x 4 divided by accumulated variation of lambda of front oxygen (A/F) sensor per 32 milliseconds x 4" which should be less than 9.534. I can't sample at an interval of 32 milliseconds (31.25 samples per second), but it doesn't look like these sensors are bad.

This is after some driving while the vehicle was (more or less) idling for close to 3 minutes.

Rectangle Slope Plot Line Parallel


Should have a longer drive and some more logging later today.
 

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2009 Outback XT (5MT)
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144 Posts
So as usual... Not today but a week ago. Had a very simple job early in the morning last Sunday, with rest of the day off. Got home by 9am and was fully caffeinated so got ambitious. Replaced both front axles with Raxles. The front right had a pinhole on the inner boot, naturally right after I installed my wrapped downpipe, so that's nice and greasy now. Both fronts were cheap aftermarket so decided to make them both better. While I was there... Replaced both front calipers (tired of dumping rust out of the pots every time I remove them, and prettily sure they stuck a little). And while I was there, slapped in the front coilovers that have been waiting for a year. And since I did the front coilovers, gotta do the rears too...
Then bled the new calipers, set my ride height (only dropped 1" in front and 3/4" in rear, glad to maintain some stockish height), set camber and toe, and button up for the day. All in all, about 10hrs of work at a leisurely pace. With the exception of trying to break the rear toe arm eccentric bolts free (again). Got the nuts loose this time, but both bolts still siezed. Gonna set a special day aside for those eventually... Just me, my half inch impact, a torch, and those eccentric bolts. Beyond those two, everything else came apart easily, and what hadn't gotten antisieze yet did now.
Extremely pleased with the results. 99.9% sure my struts were the originals, with 145k miles.... And now
I know just how bad a job they were doing. Lots of little pops/clunks and the occasional highway vibration all gone now, and damping is soooo much smoother.
 

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2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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940 Posts
So as usual... Not today but a week ago. Had a very simple job early in the morning last Sunday, with rest of the day off. Got home by 9am and was fully caffeinated so got ambitious. Replaced both front axles with Raxles. The front right had a pinhole on the inner boot, naturally right after I installed my wrapped downpipe, so that's nice and greasy now. Both fronts were cheap aftermarket so decided to make them both better. While I was there... Replaced both front calipers (tired of dumping rust out of the pots every time I remove them, and prettily sure they stuck a little). And while I was there, slapped in the front coilovers that have been waiting for a year. And since I did the front coilovers, gotta do the rears too...
Then bled the new calipers, set my ride height (only dropped 1" in front and 3/4" in rear, glad to maintain some stockish height), set camber and toe, and button up for the day. All in all, about 10hrs of work at a leisurely pace. With the exception of trying to break the rear toe arm eccentric bolts free (again). Got the nuts loose this time, but both bolts still siezed. Gonna set a special day aside for those eventually... Just me, my half inch impact, a torch, and those eccentric bolts. Beyond those two, everything else came apart easily, and what hadn't gotten antisieze yet did now.
Extremely pleased with the results. 99.9% sure my struts were the originals, with 145k miles.... And now
I know just how bad a job they were doing. Lots of little pops/clunks and the occasional highway vibration all gone now.
The eccentric bolts are probably rust welded to the bushings. I am not sure how the torch will do to help unfreeze it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2009 Outback XT (5MT)
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144 Posts
Also, it was extremely gratifying to change two axles and NOT drain the transmission fluid. I was quite unhappy to discover the leaky boot just 3000 miles after pouring the motul in the trans. Just did one side at a time with only that corner lifted. Probably didn't even lose a half ounce of fluid. First vehicle I've ever had where that was possible.
 

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2005 3L LL Bean Outback
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349 Posts
Recently I've been noticing mini-detonations, seemingly in the exhaust.
2.5 hour drive and I'm still noticing the detonations in the exhaust, which is apparently unspent fuel. No CEL. Perhaps I should have disconnected the battery to reset everything following the MAF cleaning. I should have more log data which I'll be examining. I'll probably follow up in a separate thread, or jump on to the P0420 thread.
 

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2008 JDM Outback 3.0R, 5EAT
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532 Posts
2.5 hour drive and I'm still noticing the detonations in the exhaust, which is apparently unspent fuel. No CEL. Perhaps I should have disconnected the battery to reset everything following the MAF cleaning. I should have more log data which I'll be examining. I'll probably follow up in a separate thread, or jump on to the P0420 thread.
That's no good, I wonder how the fuel trims are looking ? I got P0172, P0175 (system too rich) a while after cleaning a failing MAF..
 

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2005 3L LL Bean Outback
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349 Posts
That's no good, I wonder how the fuel trims are looking ? I got P0172, P0175 (system too rich) a while after cleaning a failing MAF..
The long term trims seem to be in the 8 to 12% range. I'm not sure if that's good or bad. I'm not getting any other codes than P0420 which I cleared several days ago and hasn't come back since.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Plot

Not sure if this even makes any sense, but I added the short and long term for bank 1, and added the short and long term for bank 2. For the same driving stretch:
Slope Rectangle Parallel Font Plot

Also logged MAF, manifold pressure, and coolant and intake temperature sensors. For the same driving stretch:
Rectangle Slope Plot Font Parallel

I'm not seeing anything that would point to something obviously wrong, but I have little to compare with. Also, I thought I had found log settings for all 4 O2 sensors but only 1 showed up in the logs, the other 3 didn't provide log data. There are more O2 related codes/sensors that I have to explore.
 

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2005 3L LL Bean Outback
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349 Posts
you might check the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum line. should be dry.
Ironically, I've been doing just that last week, but it was on my truck, making sure the nipple on the regulator doesn't smell like gas (which it didn't). With 37 psi on the fuel rails at idle, I removed the vacuum line from the regulator which increased psi to 42, which would suggest the regulator is ok. Looks like I'm going to be performing similar tests on the car. For the truck, I have a smoke machine coming in later this week. I'll probably use that for the car as well, notably the exhaust. Currently reading on the effects of the smoke produced by these machines (propylene glycol apparently) on fuel, etc.. Should have paid more attention in chemistry class, but that was before Breaking Bad came out.
 
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