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Wash & Waxed...
(M62, D156 as a quick dry helper, NXT2.0)

There's a reflection if you look for it. Not as much as I'd like, nor will ever get with this paint color.

Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Cloud Sky
 

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2016 2.5 Limited. LP Aventure, Bilstein, Rallitek, Pirelli, Frontrunner, Diode Dynamics
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129 Posts
Headlight restoration using a :
3M Kit (500 grit, 800 grit, 3000 Trizact)
&
Cerakote Kit (Oxidation wipes, 2,000 grit, 3,000 grit, and cermamic coating).

Resualts: 8.5-9 out of 10. Restored to 90-95% like new. Stills some swirl marks left behind from sanding.

Needs sand paper in 1,500 and 2,500 grit in my opinion to remove the scratches likely caused by the 800 grit. Even with both kits I did not have enough sand paper in 2,000 and 3,000 grit. I would add the 3M combination hand sanding kit that includes the missing grits.

Results are only as good as your prep and effort in sanding. I did not have the items needed for 100% effort. Still happy considering how bad they were oxidized, especially on the top.

Ceramic oating did not cover some deep swirl marks from sanding with 800 grit.
Automotive parking light Car Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light Grille


Compared to crystal clear glass headlights.
Wheel Car Automotive parking light Tire Automotive side marker light
 

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Last week, just before my trip up to West Virginia, I replaced the driver's side front axle (had to replace the passenger's side front axle a few months ago), changed out a broken wheel stud, and bled the brakes. Wouldn't you know it? My car made the trip up, half way around the state during the visit, and back home all in one piece. I guess I do know what I'm doing from time to time.

Coming up: change oil and filter, change diff fluids (front and back), change spark plugs.
 

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114 Posts
Changed oil & filter, rotated tires, and bled/changed brake fluid. Noticed the worn front anti-sway bar bushings, both of them looked like this. Probably replace soon. How long have others had theirs last? It isn't making any noise yet, 4 yrs, 40k miles on the car.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Automotive exhaust Bicycle part
 

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2016 2.5 Limited. LP Aventure, Bilstein, Rallitek, Pirelli, Frontrunner, Diode Dynamics
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129 Posts
Changed oil & filter, rotated tires, and bled/changed brake fluid. Noticed the worn front anti-sway bar bushings, both of them looked like this. Probably replace soon. How long have others had theirs last? It isn't making any noise yet, 4 yrs, 40k miles on the car.
My front bushings look like that. 75k miles. I have a random squeak at low speed that I can’t reproduce at will. The sounds started when I upgraded to stiffer Bilstein shocks and Rallitek springs at 65k miles.

I’m going to replace the front bushings when I change my front pads.
 

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108 Posts
So the air blower for the HVAC has been making a slight ticking noise.
Been driving me nuts, but I havent had the time to dive into it until yesterday.
Popped out the cabin filter, thinking that maybe a leaf got in the squirrel cage. No luck. Noise is in the motor.
lookup new blower cost... $150+ ugh.

So I figure its worth a shot to try to fix it. Its a "non reparable" part.

To remove the blower, I first have to take the trim off the underside of the passenger side dash.. there are 3 clips, you can use your fingers.
Then the blower is right there. pop off the power connector, and undo 3 screws... they're hex bolts on the outside, torx on the inside. One is hidden in the part that sticks out, and the other two are visible.
White Black Motor vehicle Organism Mode of transport





OK, so I have the blower motor in my hand now.... spinning it, yep I feel the tick in the motor. Its going to be a brush.
Looking at the underside of the blower, I can see the carbon of the brushes...

So step 1 is getting to the actual motor. Undo the one screw on the motor. This is what holds the motor to the plastic cover/case/mounting bracket.
Step two... CAREFULLY press out the spade connectors from the plastic, while lifting the plastic.. so lift, push each one, lift, etc.. until the black cover comes off.

You now can see the actual bare motor.
I sprayed it with brake cleaner, and used shop air to keep it spinning while I did so. Do not spray anything into it with electrical power on the motor. lol. spin it with air, or by hand.
this eliminated the carbon stuck under/in/around the motor.. and removed most of the ticking.. I then sprayed PTFE dry lube while keeping it spinning... this lubes somewhat, but isnt the primary lube.
I then used a self-thickening lithium grease.. spraying it THROUGH the motor, with the motor spinning at very low speed. until all ticking stopped and everything was lubed up properly.

to reassemble, there is a ring on the cover that you can pop off. put the ring over the motor, then contacts in, then work it all together... If you got this far, you can figure it out pretty easily.

First time I ran the heater I smelt a little lithium grease, but it went away quickly.

I do not expect it to last another 70k+ but it should last a couple years. Eventually the carbon brush wear will clog the grease with carbon and it will need to be redone or replaced.. but that will be hundreds of hours of running time.
 

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So the air blower for the HVAC has been making a slight ticking noise.
Been driving me nuts, but I havent had the time to dive into it until yesterday.
Popped out the cabin filter, thinking that maybe a leaf got in the squirrel cage. No luck. Noise is in the motor.
lookup new blower cost... $150+ ugh.

So I figure its worth a shot to try to fix it. Its a "non reparable" part.

To remove the blower, I first have to take the trim off the underside of the passenger side dash.. there are 3 clips, you can use your fingers.
Then the blower is right there. pop off the power connector, and undo 3 screws... they're hex bolts on the outside, torx on the inside. One is hidden in the part that sticks out, and the other two are visible.
View attachment 521454




OK, so I have the blower motor in my hand now.... spinning it, yep I feel the tick in the motor. Its going to be a brush.
Looking at the underside of the blower, I can see the carbon of the brushes...

So step 1 is getting to the actual motor. Undo the one screw on the motor. This is what holds the motor to the plastic cover/case/mounting bracket.
Step two... CAREFULLY press out the spade connectors from the plastic, while lifting the plastic.. so lift, push each one, lift, etc.. until the black cover comes off.

You now can see the actual bare motor.
I sprayed it with brake cleaner, and used shop air to keep it spinning while I did so. Do not spray anything into it with electrical power on the motor. lol. spin it with air, or by hand.
this eliminated the carbon stuck under/in/around the motor.. and removed most of the ticking.. I then sprayed PTFE dry lube while keeping it spinning... this lubes somewhat, but isnt the primary lube.
I then used a self-thickening lithium grease.. spraying it THROUGH the motor, with the motor spinning at very low speed. until all ticking stopped and everything was lubed up properly.

to reassemble, there is a ring on the cover that you can pop off. put the ring over the motor, then contacts in, then work it all together... If you got this far, you can figure it out pretty easily.

First time I ran the heater I smelt a little lithium grease, but it went away quickly.

I do not expect it to last another 70k+ but it should last a couple years. Eventually the carbon brush wear will clog the grease with carbon and it will need to be redone or replaced.. but that will be hundreds of hours of running time.
I wish I had known this. I had mine start ticking a couple weeks ago, luckily a parts store had one in stock. It's incredibly easy to change. Did it in the parking lot at my work with a leatherman.
 

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. I have a random squeak at low speed that I can’t reproduce at will. The sounds started when I upgraded to stiffer Bilstein shocks and Rallitek springs at 65k miles
I would break loose all of the suspension bushing bolts, and then retorque them. You lowered the ride height and that might remove the issue.
 

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2020 Onyx
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I would break loose all of the suspension bushing bolts, and then retorque them. You lowered the ride height and that might remove the issue.
...while all 4 wheels are loaded, not on jack stands.
 
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Ooooo what's your plan for the future of the new 3.6??

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Put my thule box and bike rack on ;)
Bull bar to prevent bumper damage in city parking ( leaning over LP performance but that price is a little high) ,
Diode dynamics fog lights and maybe ditch lights,
wheels ( I think gold methods would look good with red)
Chrome delete
JDM fender flares
Lachute exhaust
Maybe, but thats a big maybe, 2" lift
 

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2016 Outback 3.6R Limited, Venetian Red Pearl
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119 Posts

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2018 2.5i Limited; "Wanderlust II"
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510 Posts
Bull bar to prevent bumper damage in city parking ( leaning over LP performance but that price is a little high)
Believe me, it's worth every penny.
 
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