Subaru Outback Forums banner

1181 - 1200 of 1318 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Found out you CAN put universal clamp on 60” crossbars in a 2020 Subaru Outback. Through the new tie downs. It’ll work better for someone with round bars then the ovals, but it works front and back! also have an idea for the gen 5ers. I’ll try to right it up in a few min to post. Was going to do it to mine if the tie downs fell thru.
C5D28536-8DBD-48C9-B76B-DB857FF5842B.jpeg
B86E86DF-C081-438B-B85D-9CA025AC6BCF.jpeg
32BBDF74-D63A-45FB-ABFB-A6416CF14F6A.jpeg
C5D28536-8DBD-48C9-B76B-DB857FF5842B.jpeg
C5D28536-8DBD-48C9-B76B-DB857FF5842B.jpeg
C5D28536-8DBD-48C9-B76B-DB857FF5842B.jpeg
B86E86DF-C081-438B-B85D-9CA025AC6BCF.jpeg
32BBDF74-D63A-45FB-ABFB-A6416CF14F6A.jpeg
C5D28536-8DBD-48C9-B76B-DB857FF5842B.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
For gen 5ers wanting wider cross bar options and further spacing front to back.....
You will need:
-Original cross bars set in place as if your hauling on your roof.

-One set of universal adjustable clamp on style cross bars. These are your new “side rails”. These will mount parallel to the sides of your car just to the inside of the plastic factory side rail/storage system, and will connect in between your front and rear factory cross bars.

-now get one more set of universal adjustable clamp on cross bars and clamp those to your 1st set of cross bars that you set up as your new “side rail”. This second set of cross bars is your new “cross bars.




So to recap:

-open up factory cross bars.

-connect new universal crossbars lengthwise front to back along sides of car, clamped to front and rear factory bars. (These are your new side rails).

-set up second set of universal clamp on adjustable cross bars as if you had a car with normal side rails.
(Using your previously set up “new” side rails).
These universal adjustable clamp on crossbars can be found for about $50 new on ebay or even Walmart. I bought mine that’s set up in my 2020 OB tie downs (previous post) from Dicks sporting goods.
Also....if my tie down plan didn’t work, and I had to do this set up, I was going to mount the 1st set of universals (new side rails) upside down UNDER the factory cross bars. Then the second set of universals (new cross bars) would be at a lower height similar to factory, which would just clear the plastic factory sides I believe, and keep the new bars nice and low coming out past sides of the car for ease of loading kayaks into j hooks....unlike Thules tower adapters that go in our cross bar mounts, but add at least a couple extra inches if not more to cross bar heights making loading a pain.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Anyone remember where the documentation was on this? I got my car in November (special order) so I am guessing mine is the "pre". I do get flashed occasionally. I am not sure I care anymore though. If its just that they are bright, then it is what it is, but if there is an actual mistake, it makes me a bit more interested. I don't have a good setup here where I can test it myself (no level ground where I can have the lights shining on something in front of the car.)
I’m getting flashed even with low beams and fogs. I have the premium with both packages including BSD/Cross traffic, push button start w/keyless, Prw rear gate, Nav and moonroof. If I’ve got high beam assist, it does’t seem to work. I thought everything above the base model got it. I bought mine in Dec 2nd. So was built in Nov probably.
 

·
Registered
2020 Outback Touring XT
Joined
·
66 Posts
Added some Rally Armor mudflaps.

The inner mounting hardware did not fit, so I actually used my mechanical engineering degree to devise a better mounting solution.

I emailed them to let them know. Hopefully they listen and fix it, but if anyone else buys these and runs into the same problem, just shoot me a message and I'll show you the fix.
IMG_3844.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Added some Rally Armor mudflaps.

The inner mounting hardware did not work, so I actually used my mechanical engineering degree to devise a better mounting solution.

I emailed them to let them know. Hopefully they listen and fix it, but if anyone else buys these and runs into the same problem, just shoot me a message and I'll show you the fix.
View attachment 481223
Those gold methods look really nice on the white outback. Is it lifted or did you stay within the factory sizing for your wheels?
Looking to switch wheels someday. I am not a fan of the wheels they put on my 2020 Premium. I like the limited and touring wheels from the 2019 gen 5’s, but those are 18’s. My gen 6 Premium has the 17’s, so I get the taller side wall which I like.
 

·
Registered
2020 Outback Touring XT
Joined
·
66 Posts
Those gold methods look really nice on the white outback. Is it lifted or did you stay within the factory sizing for your wheels?
Looking to switch wheels someday. I am not a fan of the wheels they put on my 2020 Premium. I like the limited and touring wheels from the 2019 gen 5’s, but those are 18’s. My gen 6 Premium has the 17’s, so I get the taller side wall which I like.
No lift - I've actually gotten that question a handful of times. I think the 17" wheel actually give it that appearance, since sizing down from 18" to 17" adds an extra 1/2" distance between the top of the rim and wheel well.

Tires are factory size at 225/65r17. This size in the Wildpeak Trails is 30 pounds per tire. Next step up to 235/65r17 was 35 pounds, and I didn't want to add 5 pounds per tire when I don't even go offroading.

I don't want to ship my stock wheels, but if you live in the Bay Area and want to pick them up, I'll do $650 for the OEM wheels + Avid GT's (w/o TPMS). However, I'd highly recommend just putting that cash toward some nicer wheels like these cause they're sweet! The 38 vs 55mm stock offset gives the car a noticeably nicer stance as well.
 

·
Registered
2020 Outback Onyx XT
Joined
·
1,883 Posts
Added some Rally Armor mudflaps.

The inner mounting hardware did not fit, so I actually used my mechanical engineering degree to devise a better mounting solution.

I emailed them to let them know. Hopefully they listen and fix it, but if anyone else buys these and runs into the same problem, just shoot me a message and I'll show you the fix.
View attachment 481223
I am really interested in what you had to do to get the mud flaps fit. Can you post a guide if you can? That would be helpful to others as well.

The car looks great!
 

·
Registered
2020 Outback Premium Dark Grey 4 cyl
Joined
·
226 Posts
Got a thank you card in the mail from my salesperson at Subaru. Told me that the sales department is closed until further notice but service remains open. Wow, glad I got my Outback when I did.
 

·
Registered
2020 Outback Touring XT
Joined
·
66 Posts
I am really interested in what you had to do to get the mud flaps fit. Can you post a guide if you can? That would be helpful to others as well.

The car looks great!
Thanks! The degree comment was just a joke. The fix is super simple - they just need to change their hardware, cause I'm probably the first 2020 owner to buy these.

This is referring to the innermost mounting point (left) shown below:
IMG_3851 2.jpg


Here is the hardware assembly (the 2.5mm spacer should be on top of the flap next to the pop rivet, but just showing overall combined thickness):
IMG_3842 2.jpg


The pop rivet goes in the innermost mounting hole, then the rest screws in as shown. The problem is that the screw doesn't get any purchase inside the walls of the pop rivet, so it's like trying to put too small a screw inside too big a hole. The result is a wobbly connection, and as the mudflap flaps, the screw will work itself out.

Their intent was that the pop rivet would be squeezed hard enough by inserting into the fender hole for it's inner walls to grab hold of the screw, but the fender hole is too big for this pop rivet - it was too loose and easy to pull out of the hole. This could work with just a longer, fatter screw, but what I found worked better is this clip below from the OEM splash guards:
IMG_3850 2.jpg


This just clips right behind the fender liner (or just leave it in place if you're removing the OEM splash guards) and coupled with a longer button head screw I found in the garage, the connection is now rock solid as seen in the first picture.

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
2020 Outback Onyx XT
Joined
·
1,883 Posts
Thanks! The degree comment was just a joke. The fix is super simple - they just need to change their hardware, cause I'm probably the first 2020 owner to buy these.

This is referring to the innermost mounting point (left) shown below:
View attachment 481245

Here is the hardware assembly (the 2.5mm spacer should be on top of the flap next to the pop rivet, but just showing overall combined thickness):
View attachment 481247

The pop rivet goes in the innermost mounting hole, then the rest screws in as shown. The problem is that the screw doesn't get any purchase inside the walls of the pop rivet, so it's like trying to put too small a screw inside too big a hole. The result is a wobbly connection, and as the mudflap flaps, the screw will work itself out.

Their intent was that the pop rivet would be squeezed hard enough by inserting into the fender hole for it's inner walls to grab hold of the screw, but the fender hole is too big for this pop rivet - it was too loose and easy to pull out of the hole. This could work with just a longer, fatter screw, but what I found worked better is this clip below from the OEM splash guards:
View attachment 481248

This just clips right behind the fender liner (or just leave it in place if you're removing the OEM splash guards) and coupled with a longer button head screw I found in the garage, the connection is now rock solid as seen in the first picture.

Hope this helps.
That is helpful, thank you for writing that up. Appreciate it!
 

·
Registered
2020 Outback Onyx XT
Joined
·
1,883 Posts
Thanks! The degree comment was just a joke. The fix is super simple - they just need to change their hardware, cause I'm probably the first 2020 owner to buy these.

This is referring to the innermost mounting point (left) shown below:
View attachment 481245

Here is the hardware assembly (the 2.5mm spacer should be on top of the flap next to the pop rivet, but just showing overall combined thickness):
View attachment 481247

The pop rivet goes in the innermost mounting hole, then the rest screws in as shown. The problem is that the screw doesn't get any purchase inside the walls of the pop rivet, so it's like trying to put too small a screw inside too big a hole. The result is a wobbly connection, and as the mudflap flaps, the screw will work itself out.

Their intent was that the pop rivet would be squeezed hard enough by inserting into the fender hole for it's inner walls to grab hold of the screw, but the fender hole is too big for this pop rivet - it was too loose and easy to pull out of the hole. This could work with just a longer, fatter screw, but what I found worked better is this clip below from the OEM splash guards:
View attachment 481248

This just clips right behind the fender liner (or just leave it in place if you're removing the OEM splash guards) and coupled with a longer button head screw I found in the garage, the connection is now rock solid as seen in the first picture.

Hope this helps.
One more thing, how flexible are the mudflaps? Would they bend back while driving at highway speeds? If possible, can you post more pictures of the fronts as well? The pictures on RA's site are not that helpful.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
2020 Outback Touring XT
Joined
·
66 Posts
One more thing, how flexible are the mudflaps? Would they bend back while driving at highway speeds? If possible, can you post more pictures of the fronts as well? The pictures on RA's site are not that helpful.

Thanks!
They are 3.2 mm thick urethane, similar durometer to a softer longboard wheel. If I blow hard on them with my mouth, they do flex a bit. With the flaps perpendicular to the ground as a reference, my guess is that they will flex back by about 20-30 degrees when traveling at highway speeds.

Even though I said they'll flex back by blowing on them, it's a 'solid' flex, not like those rubber mudflaps on semi trucks. I can't say as I haven't seen them in motion from 3rd person, but based on their construction, they shouldn't flap around like a wet noodle.

I'm very happy with them, and they'll sure be nice to help keep the side of the car clean when driving in the snow, which was my main intent.
 
1181 - 1200 of 1318 Posts
Top