Well - the silver lining is that this is one of Subaru's best engines ever made. If you can tolerate the repairs - this is one of the cheapest and most reliable/practical 100,000 miles you can get if you can get through this rough beginning.
$2,000 isn't cheap but it's not awful either for that vehicle.
If the oil leaks are that bad then there's a good chance it's not the separator plate. It's usually too oily to even be able to tell where it's coming from....
***Replace the PCV valve and the hose below it into the engine block if that's clogged (they're usually hard, brittle and break if you mess with them by this age). That will relieve some pressure and slow oil leaks that are pushing out elsewhere because that valve is probably original and stuck shut.
*** First step is to identify where the main leaks are from. If it's valve cover gaskets - those are cheap and easy - like three 10mm bolts to replace the valve covers. Super easy and worth a try. They are very prone to leak, I can almost promise you they are hard as a rock and leaking. They tend to drip down, back, and central due to the geometry of the engine layout, crossmember chaneling, and forward motion of the car...making it look like the leak is from the back center of the engine, when it's not.
A full timing belt job would take care of all the front end oil leaks:
Ebay timing belt kits for that car are only $80 and include all new pulleys and timing belt.
While the belt is off you have easy access to and should:
Reseal the oil pump - tigthen the backing plate screws while it's off
Replace the cam seals and cam cap oring on the drivers side.
Replace the valve cover gaskets.
Water pump replacement is wise while yo'ure in there.
That would address all the front seals. Add the valve cover gaskets and you've covered all the major leak areas except the separator cover.
$2,000 isn't cheap but it's not awful either for that vehicle.
If the oil leaks are that bad then there's a good chance it's not the separator plate. It's usually too oily to even be able to tell where it's coming from....
***Replace the PCV valve and the hose below it into the engine block if that's clogged (they're usually hard, brittle and break if you mess with them by this age). That will relieve some pressure and slow oil leaks that are pushing out elsewhere because that valve is probably original and stuck shut.
*** First step is to identify where the main leaks are from. If it's valve cover gaskets - those are cheap and easy - like three 10mm bolts to replace the valve covers. Super easy and worth a try. They are very prone to leak, I can almost promise you they are hard as a rock and leaking. They tend to drip down, back, and central due to the geometry of the engine layout, crossmember chaneling, and forward motion of the car...making it look like the leak is from the back center of the engine, when it's not.
A full timing belt job would take care of all the front end oil leaks:
Ebay timing belt kits for that car are only $80 and include all new pulleys and timing belt.
While the belt is off you have easy access to and should:
Reseal the oil pump - tigthen the backing plate screws while it's off
Replace the cam seals and cam cap oring on the drivers side.
Replace the valve cover gaskets.
Water pump replacement is wise while yo'ure in there.
That would address all the front seals. Add the valve cover gaskets and you've covered all the major leak areas except the separator cover.
