[rimclean]

Hi,
I am new to the Forum and new to my 2001 Outback 3.0 LL Bean.

I am seeing a drip of something on my driveway and it appears to be coming from the part in the attached photos. Can anyone tell me what you call this part and what I should do to fix it?

Thanks

P.S. It is part of the left (drivers side) front wheel/axel assembly.

 

[cmill1154]

Your fluid filled transverse link bushing (control arm bushing) is shot. The whole unit will come off the car without removing the control arm itself. You can replace it with stock unit, an OE one from a WRX or STi, a complete aftermarket unit to improve steering geometry, or replace the bushing only with any number of aftermarket polyurethane pieces.

 

[rimclean]

Thanks for the quick reply? Is it an easy job or something I should get done by a mechanic. I know "easy" means different things to different people but consider me a novice.

Thanks.

 

[jp1203]

I'm also interested in hearing what's involved in this. My driver's side one isn't dripping yet, but it's definitely on its way. Passenger's side is still bone dry. Would it make sense to just replace both?

 

[cmill1154]

Thanks for the quick reply? Is it an easy job or something I should get done by a mechanic. I know "easy" means different things to different people but consider me a novice.

Thanks.

I would consider removing and replacing the unit as easy. No more difficult than spark plugs. It's just three bolts, but they're tight so you need a breaker bar or an impact. If you want to replace the bushing only, that's more involved but I wouldn't consider it difficult.

I replaced front and rear bushings in an afternoon. That was after pulling the control arms from the car after appeasing the ball joint pinch bolt gods into not letting mine snap.

I'm also interested in hearing what's involved in this. My driver's side one isn't dripping yet, but it's definitely on its way. Passenger's side is still bone dry. Would it make sense to just replace both?

I would replace both. Only doing one seems like only replacing one tie rod, or one shock. I replaced mine with Superpro urethane bushings. Only about $55 and no increase in noise.

JP, Was it you that had asked about Geolanders a while back? Maybe it was someone else but I had said that my car started following the drainage grooves cut into the concrete freeway immediately after getting those tires. Well, the tires may have only exacerbated a problem that was already there, because after replacing the control arm bushings, that following/twitching stopped.

 

[jp1203]

Thanks! Looks like the whole piece is around $84/side...sound about right? Just a matter of taking out the three bolts and swapping the new one in?

I did ask about Geolandars a while back--probably going to pickup a set of them fairly soon. Good to know that the tires weren't completely at fault!

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Thanks! Looks like the whole piece is around $84/side...sound about right? Just a matter of taking out the three bolts and swapping the new one in?

I did ask about Geolandars a while back--probably going to pickup a set of them fairly soon. Good to know that the tires weren't completely at fault!

got a part number?

I'm a little unclear on what's being replaced. The arm, the bushing?

any more links to pics/procedure?

 

[StingyPaperWaffles]

Wow, the leaf spring in that picture really made my mind hurt for a second!

So those things are fluid filled, huh? I had no idea. I guess that's why mine are dripping! Never too late to learn something...

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

yeah, I think that explains an odd drip the cured itself on our OBW. I'll need to confirm somehow in October - buy I'd like to be prepared for the work if necessary. If there's only $30 difference between the bushing vs the part - I'd probably go with the part but, I'm still alittle unclear on exactly what/where these "3 bolts" are.


is it number 15 here? ;http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_28/suspension_and_axle/front_suspension/

 

[StingyPaperWaffles]

I'm not under the car, but if I'm not mistaken, it's two bolts that hold the bracket to the chassis, and one nut where the control arm goes through the bushing.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

pricey little unit.

It's hard to tell, but it looks like a 'rebuild' insert is half the price of the Soob part. Not sure how easy it is to rebuild......

 

[Dodik]

its only easy if you have an impact gun. I had to do it on my old legacy took three hours to get each bolt out with 6' cheater bar, and almost same time to put them back in. Probably a 10 min job with impact gun. just my two cents

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

what's the re-install torque?

 

[subiesailor]

I did some research on the bushings - the aftermarket bushings are pretty cool and do provide a more solid feel - however the few super high end shops I talked with about the aftermarket specialty bushings they all said the same thing - they will transmit more road vibration to the car - and everyone said the same thing regarding life - they said that the high end performance bushings will not last as long as the stock bushings. The intent of the aftermarket bushings is to tighten up the road performance or in the 4x4 world to allow more articulation in the suspension but in both cases I had several makers tell me that the bushings will not last as long as the stock bushings.

Just a bit of interesting info. If you want a different feel and a stiffer more direct ride then aftermarket is the way to go. If you just want to replace them and want them to last as long as possible - stick with OEM that is exactly what the manufacturers of several high end suspension systems told me.

 

[cmill1154]

NVH is only an issue with poly when the durometer is extremely high. Most manufacturers will state the durometer or that a certain type is "comfort." I had no noticeable increase in noise, but I should state that my car is almost fully sound deadened. Stock Subarus now sound like being on the inside of a steel drum with someone pounding on the outside.

If I did it again, just for the convenience factor I would get STi mounts as they are under $100/pair and aren't fluid filled. Stock is not always best in terms of durability (girl's '04 just had one puke at 92k) and most people tend to just become accustomed to certain stock bushings when they're shot at 50k. (e.g. nearly all OE Subaru manual trans mounts over the past 20 years)

 

[jp1203]

yeah, I think that explains an odd drip the cured itself on our OBW. I'll need to confirm somehow in October - buy I'd like to be prepared for the work if necessary. If there's only $30 difference between the bushing vs the part - I'd probably go with the part but, I'm still alittle unclear on exactly what/where these "3 bolts" are.


is it number 15 here? ;http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_28/suspension_and_axle/front_suspension/

That's what I assumed. Not cheap for what looks like a fairly simple part!

It's beginning to sound like I may not have a breaker bar long enough to get the old ones off! :gasp: Maybe it'll be an excuse to buy a nice impact gun

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

That's what I assumed. Not cheap for what looks like a fairly simple part!

It's beginning to sound like I may not have a breaker bar long enough to get the old ones off! :gasp: Maybe it'll be an excuse to buy a nice impact gun

I bought an electric from Lowes for finishing up my strut replacement. Wish I'd had one 25-30 years ago! If I confirm the outback needs this thing, I'm hoping my gun will bust it loose. At least there shouldn't be any rust issues like up north.

Been looking at whitline and prothane but it isn't clear if/which bushing only parts would work on our cars. Some of those kits seem to include the inner bushing too.

 

[jp1203]

I bought an electric from Lowes for finishing up my strut replacement. Wish I'd had one 25-30 years ago! If I confirm the outback needs this thing, I'm hoping my gun will bust it loose. At least there shouldn't be any rust issues like up north.

Been looking at whitline and prothane but it isn't clear if/which bushing only parts would work on our cars. Some of those kits seem to include the inner bushing too.

So far, I haven't really had a good reason to buy one--breaker bars have loosened everything I've needed (though sometimes with quite a bit of effort!).

I didn't see much of any rust on these on my 2004, but for some reason the entire car is basically rust free despite being a New England vehicle for its entire life.

I'm leaning toward OEM. My first set went to probably just under 120k since I just noticed the driver's one leaking the other day. I don't think I want to mess with replacing just the bushings.

 

[cmill1154]

Mine came loose with a two foot breaker bar after 165k and my 135lb twig arms pulling on it.

Whiteline's website very clearly states which bushings fit Outbacks. Prothane is part # 16-201.

 

[jp1203]

Mine came loose with a two foot breaker bar after 165k and my 135lb twig arms pulling on it.

Excellent! I have at least a 2 footer, and I might even weigh a few pounds less.