Yea my oil cooler is lightly leaking (apparently they're not too bad to replace)... mine also has a jerky trans but I think it was because the ATF was never done by the Jap owners before it was imported. It's cost me a bit but thats because I like everything perfect... like the CV joint, wheel bearing, AT fluid, diff fluid, trans mount.. But i'm more than happy.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but is the A/C rev sensor just an issue on the older H6 engines (2001-2002) and was corrected in the 2003s and 2004s? The A/C in my 04 was not working when I bought it, and it just needed a recharge--been fine ever since.I wonder if there was a bad batch of belt idler bearings at some point. It would be good to know the codes on the bearings that folks have had fail. Mine (which were still smooth at 100K) are marked "NSK 6203DUL1".
Funny I just replied to a post about the AC rev sensor, which had a TSB. Basically if your AC fails, you want to check first whether this sensor has gone bad. Pull the three-pole connector off the top of the AC compressor and check resistance between the rearmost two poles. Should be around 1.6kohm at room temp, 2.0kohm warmed up. If the resistance is much higher or there is no continuity, the sensor probably needs to be replaced.
The oil filter mount is an oil cooler. I noticed grunge on mine during oil changes and thought it might be leaking. Turns out it was just oil collecting at the lowest point from a valve cover leak. Someone on this forum suggested tightening the valve cover bolts, which stopped that leak. No need to replace valve cover gaskets.
I should look at doing the serp belt on mine. One good sign is that I can see it when I open the hood! That's more than I can say about the spark plugsJust wanted to chime in and say I bought my 03 H6 VDC 5 years ago at 80,000km (now at 180k) and of the supposed H6 issues I've only had the TPS sensor problem (at 90k, tricky to diagnose, but managed to get it fixed under warranty). Today the serpentine belt snapped but that should be an easy enough fix.
I haven't the faintest idea, so I plan on changing it soon. I've only had the car for the past 5K miles or so. I did change the front and rear diff oil, since they were both a tiny bit low and I had to add oil anyway.At 110k how old is your trans fluid?
Based on what I've seen on the dipstick, it sounds like what yours looks like, definitely not cherry red anymore, but not black either.I just changed mine out at 100k, it looked original to me. It wasn't black, but it was not a nice pretty light red either. Very deep dark red.
Did 3 drain and fills with Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF. Happy car. Trying to replace the AT filter, bought a new OEM Subaru one, but the factory one is rusted/seized to the car.
Just give mine a couple years...after a few winters here I'm sure the underside won't look so pretty. The towns stick mostly to sand, but the state uses mountains of road salt every storm.Ugh, don't get me started on the rust. Every drain bolt except for the oil pan on 03 is seized due to rust. It took a lok of PB Blaster and a hammer to break the AT plug loose. Diffs are still seized up.
They H6 plugs are a real PITA, although Peaty has a good DIY thread over on Scoobymods.