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01 Outback wagon 3.0 VDC
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Changing out a 3.0 engine in a 03 Outback this week end. Found the bolts from transmission to engine are extra long. Sprayed bolt ends with Liquid wrench and hope they don't strip coming out. What type of Permatex Anti Seize should I use to thread bolts back in to the aluminum block ??? Ebay has like 3 kinds to choose from.
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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01 Outback LL Bean
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It's not clear what the issue is. Why are the bolts incorrect length? Why would a long bolt lead to stripping? What do you need anti seize for?
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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5,962 Posts
I had one of mine pull some of the threads out with the bolt.
Had to rethread it, realized only after assembly started so I cut a slot in a bolt and used that to rethread.
I think the silver antiseize is fine, there is some dry stuff that is ideal, I think copper flakes in a binder?
 

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01 Outback wagon 3.0 VDC
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
03 Outback 3.0 transmission bolts

The transmission bolts that bolt the trans to the engine just look extra long to me. Do not know what Subaru's reason was behind it but they stick out like an inch pass where they should have stopped. That's why I was worried about backing them out with out a good spraying. Wish I had the room to wire brush them but I can only brush half the bolt.Maybe mine were replaced at one time. Take a look at yours and let me know if its just mine.
 

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01 Outback wagon 3.0 VDC
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think the problem he had was he pulled the torque converter forward when pulling the engine. Subaru has a tool for that ST498277200 stopper set or flywheel stopper. It holds the torque converter back while pulling the engine. It bolts to where your starter mounts. I will have to make some thing like it or find some one on this site that has one before I pull my engine.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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I bent a small strip of metal and drilled a hole thru it to hold the converter back.
Was just a straight piece of aluminum that I twisted 90 degrees then bent 90 degrees.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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i'v never used any tool and have no idea how many Subaru engines i've pulled. just pay attention and the converter can't come out unless you try. once the 4 TC bolts are removed just push it back away fromt he engine/flex plate. then it's not touching and can't come out. you can push on it through the access areas while prying the first few millimeters of engine off the bellhousing for good measure.

you're talking about the two lower bolts by the axles, they are annoying. if they come out, just treat them/use that like bolts and reinstall them that way.

coat the threads with grease/antiseize, but hopefully you're never touching them again!

you can then separate them and clean up the threads with a tap and die once they're removed. M10x1.25 threads. i've never had engine to trans bolts strip or cause issues. keep the threads that engage the block clean and don't force them in when they're not lined up or use them to draw the engine/trans together needlessly and you're golden.
 

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2001 Subaru Outback Wagon 3.0 VDC
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I just finished pulling out this engine and putting it back in and I thought the same thing. You can actually see on the RH side where the bolt goes past the engine threads about half an inch.
I made the mistake of not checking my engine side threads before lining everything up and remating them. I found that one of the bellhouse bolts just below starter stud/nut will NOT screw in, so I assume the female threads stripped somehow. Everything else went in just fine. Trying to figure out whether I should try to retap and helicoil or just keep going without the bolt.

I also made the mistake of not securing the torque converter when removing engine and is easy to do with a long zip tie through the starter hole (did it on re-installation as a precaution). I had a knowledgeable friend help me remove the retaining clip, place it on the tc and slide it back in. Thankfully, so far no issues!
 
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