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What's Better deal, Costco or IMBA VIP?

14068 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  GasGuzz
I am a Costco member and an IMBA member. The IMBA deal is 2% below invoice. Not sure about Costco, I have to drive about 30 miles to a dealer in Englewood CO to get the Costco price and I don't generally have time to do that. Anybody compared the 2 deals? Do either of these deals require you to pay destination charge, or other hidden fees? Do they include Subaru Financing (which is 1.9% now). Thanks.
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Go to to determine Sticker/Invoice/Dealer-Cost. Best pricing I’ve found (CO Denver to Pueblo areas) was between GO/Heuberger, and it looks like you're looking at GO-Englewood. The internet is your friend, send out for quotes and crunch your numbers from there. On our 08/27 purchase, you’ll get better than -2% Invoice without even trying. Pricing should include Destination, you’ll pay that as that’s included in Sticker. Dealers should be quoting you fees “+ Tax/Lic”. How close I get to Dealer-Cost is the target, no longer the Invoice game.
You can get Subaru 1.9% (you sure about that, and not 2.9%) regardless of discounting, I came in with my own pre-approved 3.4% which my dealer countered (same bank) with 1.9%/72. YMMV, definitely check with your bank/credit-union prior to stepping afoot the dealers’.
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Yes yes yes all that, thus the beauty of the web eh.
At Truecar set up with the model-config you’re looking at, it will lead you to a form that will send out for quotes. Either that or go through the dealer sites and select from inventory, then ask for quotes on several VINs/Stk-Nos. Given is that the inventory is not current to the minute, so communicate model/options to the dealer to get pricing on such too.
Depending on config/options, you can get faster response via phone call. With my car setup though, it’s pretty straightforward to articulate through email then make the call afterwards (and not be bothered by ‘sales calls’). I made the call to finalize only after crunching my numbers, and bought that evening after work. Once I hit the dealer floor, the Purchase-Price is done, what’s left is Trade (which also requires homework).
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And remember to that when you connect via the auto search websites they know you’re on Truecar/Autotrader/etc., so right off the bat they’re competing within you zip. In fact, subsequently GO made a counter to beat any offer by $100 (price unspecified at that).
Ditto per the Radar on the 2010 default, as we’re buying an 011 on year 010.

And that’s not to say you ‘accept’ their quote/offer right there, there’s still room back and forth negotiating. You’re spreadsheet will tell you the ‘truth’.
I got $200 below the "best price" guarantee from I probably could have done better if I shopped around more, but who knows.
If you’re happy/content with the car/price, that’s all there is to it. There’s a better deal somewhere/somehow, as long as you’ve done your HW there’s no need for more brain damage.
Deal and enjoy!
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