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2000 Outback 2.5L 5 Speed, 2014 Outback Premium 2.5L CVT
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace the oil pan on my 2000 outback. The bolts in back look pretty hard to get to without raising the engine. So what is all required to do this job?

Thanks!
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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gotta lift the engine for bolt access and for the internal sump to clear the baffles in the pan...I've only seen Subaru's with baffles, i'm unsure if there are any motors without them but I haven't seen one.

It's not that bad though - only 3 nuts to get the engine to lift up - two lower 14mm engine mounts nuts and one bolt for the pitch stopped - that's it. have to detach intake and remove radiator hoses as they're probably not going to articulate enough for the engine to go up....but those are sort of ancillary things.

jack the engine up and go to town.

if you do have to remove the hoses consider this a good time for a coolant change and add Subaru's required coolant conditioner for that engine.

Also - make sure it's the oil pan. Valve covers, headgaskets, oil cooler (if equipped, i don't think your year OBW has one), and rear separator plate can look like oil pan leakage. Even a front oil pump/crank can wet the oil pan significantly. All leaks end up giving residual oil supply to the oil pan due to it's location and the geometry of the engine.

it's mostly annoying working under the car but not as hard as it sounds once you do it once.
 

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2000 Outback 2.5L 5 Speed, 2014 Outback Premium 2.5L CVT
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Its leaking from here, (the little indentation in the red circle).



My friend has a lift in his shop so working under it isn't a problem. Where can you jack up the engine from? How far do you have to raise it? Where do you take the intake loose at? I just flushed the cooling system and added conditioner this summer, oh well. Can't hurt to have new in it again.

Appreciate the help.
 

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Lord of ScoobyMods, ,
19' Impreza Sport 5 dr / 01' Forester S / 13' OB CVT / 10' Legacy 3.6R / 99 Mita MX-5
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2000 Outback 2.5L 5 Speed, 2014 Outback Premium 2.5L CVT
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I'm wondering why these 3 dents are even there. I thought at first I hit something, but there are 2 more identical dents around the plug. Maybe I did hit something and just the way the pan is made it left 3 dents like that. We actually did try and weld it, (real welder) last night, but even after letting the oil drain for a few hours there was still too much oil in the pan to get a good weld, and it still leaks. Not having a gasket or knowing what all was involved in removing the pan we just decided to leave it as is for now. I was going to check on the price of a new pan, if it is a lot I'll probably just get a new gasket and pull it out, clean it up then weld it back.
 

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2010 OBW limited 2.5 CVT
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It looks like those are where the threaded bung was spot welded into the pan. Could be wrong. but that's what it looks like.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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oh wow, nice hit and good job catching that leak.

i'd weld it shut and be done with it. if your friend has a lift he's got welders/torches. for someone that knows what they're doing that would take about 2 minutes to grab the welder and 23 seconds to weld it. i'd imagine there are intelligent ways to do it. like drain the oil out and spray some cleaner through the drain hole to get all the oil out of the bottom of the pan...something like that.
 

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2000 Outback 2.5L 5 Speed, 2014 Outback Premium 2.5L CVT
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
He is a professional welder, and couldn't get it to weld on the car. Maybe if it sat for a few days and drained it could work, but I'm pretty sure the oil pan is going to have to come off to weld it properly.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,318 Posts
Patch. When you get the pan down, patch it with a neoprene patch. Or just spray the whole inside with spray on sealer and let it cure.

Better than risking a leaking weld.
 

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2003 OBW 2.5L 4EAT
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860 Posts
Or just replace the pan, $40 - $60 on RockAuto.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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If it's leaking on the spotweld and it's not rust-through, the plug bolt probably took a hard hit at some point and almost pulled the piece with the bung-threads loose.

Now my H6, rust-through in the front.
 

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To repair a friend's transmission pan, JB Weld does work wonders. 2 years after, still going strong with no leaks. It's a lot easier than pulling the pan. If it does not work, what have you lost??
 

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Lord of ScoobyMods, ,
19' Impreza Sport 5 dr / 01' Forester S / 13' OB CVT / 10' Legacy 3.6R / 99 Mita MX-5
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I still like the JB weld option too. However you could always just take a drill and make the hole round, find a sheet metal screw of some sort slightly larger than the hole put a rubber washer on it and screw it in the hole to stop the leak. It's close enough to the oil drain hole that you can look in there to be sure you won't damage anything with the screw. Pretty sure there is a lot of clearance but you can double check.

It's just that the car is old and if you start jacking up the motor and removing bits, you may end up messing something else up. Moving the motor up will put stress on wires, hoses and other bits that are honestly best left undisturbed.

I'm not saying replacing the pan isn't the proper way of doing it, it is. It just might be safer to take the simpler way out is all :)
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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If it's a stress crack around the spot weld for the fixture that holds the bung threads, I'd say don't drill it out...
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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The alloys can be weird on something like that, it's almost impossible to get it clean enough, and then of course oil and trans pans like to crack after welding, just easier to do anything but.
 

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2000 Outback 2.5L 5 Speed, 2014 Outback Premium 2.5L CVT
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
OK I have the gasket sealer on the way here. But a few questions first, is it possible for the JB weld to work with oil leaking out of it? Seems like it wouldn't set up properly with any oil on it.

I was reading over my Chilton manual on the procedure for removing the pan, it says you have to remove the exhaust manifold. What part of it are they talking about?

Also, they mention installing a new O-ring on the pickup tube. Where does this O-ring go? Anyone know what size I'll need so I can pick one up? I wish I had read this before I ordered the gasket sealer, I would have ordered one of those two.

Thanks!
 

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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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1,698 Posts
Use a dremel tool to grind the spot clean and rough. Use brake cleaner to get all oil out of the surface, and use JB weld. Overlap the patch about 1/2" around the leak.

Give it plenty of time to dry before you fill the sump. (24 hours would be ideal, though 4-6 hours would probably be fine, and running the motor will put heat into it, speeding the cure. The fix will outlast the car. Just sayin'.
 

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Lord of ScoobyMods, ,
19' Impreza Sport 5 dr / 01' Forester S / 13' OB CVT / 10' Legacy 3.6R / 99 Mita MX-5
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1,213 Posts
I still like the JB weld idea better but this stuff looks interesting:

Permatex 82099 Spray Sealant, 9 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive

For the JB weld, since the oil drain hole is so close to the leak, I say after you drain the oil, stuff a rag through the opening by the leak as best as you can. It could help wick away the oil and minimize the contact with the opening in the leak.
 
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