gotta lift the engine for bolt access and for the internal sump to clear the baffles in the pan...I've only seen Subaru's with baffles, i'm unsure if there are any motors without them but I haven't seen one.
It's not that bad though - only 3 nuts to get the engine to lift up - two lower 14mm engine mounts nuts and one bolt for the pitch stopped - that's it. have to detach intake and remove radiator hoses as they're probably not going to articulate enough for the engine to go up....but those are sort of ancillary things.
jack the engine up and go to town.
if you do have to remove the hoses consider this a good time for a coolant change and add Subaru's required coolant conditioner for that engine.
Also - make sure it's the oil pan. Valve covers, headgaskets, oil cooler (if equipped, i don't think your year OBW has one), and rear separator plate can look like oil pan leakage. Even a front oil pump/crank can wet the oil pan significantly. All leaks end up giving residual oil supply to the oil pan due to it's location and the geometry of the engine.
it's mostly annoying working under the car but not as hard as it sounds once you do it once.
Its leaking from here, (the little indentation in the red circle).
My friend has a lift in his shop so working under it isn't a problem. Where can you jack up the engine from? How far do you have to raise it? Where do you take the intake loose at? I just flushed the cooling system and added conditioner this summer, oh well. Can't hurt to have new in it again.
I'm wondering why these 3 dents are even there. I thought at first I hit something, but there are 2 more identical dents around the plug. Maybe I did hit something and just the way the pan is made it left 3 dents like that. We actually did try and weld it, (real welder) last night, but even after letting the oil drain for a few hours there was still too much oil in the pan to get a good weld, and it still leaks. Not having a gasket or knowing what all was involved in removing the pan we just decided to leave it as is for now. I was going to check on the price of a new pan, if it is a lot I'll probably just get a new gasket and pull it out, clean it up then weld it back.
i'd weld it shut and be done with it. if your friend has a lift he's got welders/torches. for someone that knows what they're doing that would take about 2 minutes to grab the welder and 23 seconds to weld it. i'd imagine there are intelligent ways to do it. like drain the oil out and spray some cleaner through the drain hole to get all the oil out of the bottom of the pan...something like that.
He is a professional welder, and couldn't get it to weld on the car. Maybe if it sat for a few days and drained it could work, but I'm pretty sure the oil pan is going to have to come off to weld it properly.
I still like the JB weld option too. However you could always just take a drill and make the hole round, find a sheet metal screw of some sort slightly larger than the hole put a rubber washer on it and screw it in the hole to stop the leak. It's close enough to the oil drain hole that you can look in there to be sure you won't damage anything with the screw. Pretty sure there is a lot of clearance but you can double check.
It's just that the car is old and if you start jacking up the motor and removing bits, you may end up messing something else up. Moving the motor up will put stress on wires, hoses and other bits that are honestly best left undisturbed.
I'm not saying replacing the pan isn't the proper way of doing it, it is. It just might be safer to take the simpler way out is all
OK I have the gasket sealer on the way here. But a few questions first, is it possible for the JB weld to work with oil leaking out of it? Seems like it wouldn't set up properly with any oil on it.
I was reading over my Chilton manual on the procedure for removing the pan, it says you have to remove the exhaust manifold. What part of it are they talking about?
Also, they mention installing a new O-ring on the pickup tube. Where does this O-ring go? Anyone know what size I'll need so I can pick one up? I wish I had read this before I ordered the gasket sealer, I would have ordered one of those two.
Use a dremel tool to grind the spot clean and rough. Use brake cleaner to get all oil out of the surface, and use JB weld. Overlap the patch about 1/2" around the leak.
Give it plenty of time to dry before you fill the sump. (24 hours would be ideal, though 4-6 hours would probably be fine, and running the motor will put heat into it, speeding the cure. The fix will outlast the car. Just sayin'.
For the JB weld, since the oil drain hole is so close to the leak, I say after you drain the oil, stuff a rag through the opening by the leak as best as you can. It could help wick away the oil and minimize the contact with the opening in the leak.
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